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Old 03-18-2010, 10:28 AM
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Rezarf Rezarf is offline
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Default Attacking rust... 40 series

So, I washed my 40 yesterday and the rust bug is really on the move now.

However, I am trying to figure out the best way of knocking out the rust on my 40, but I have a few questions.

On my front fenders I have rust directly behind each turn signal, and at the typical spot over the center and outter edge of the fender. Both of these spots seem to have some structural backing underneath them... thus causing the rust. My question though is this, for those of you who have attacked the rust in these areas, did you remove and replace the support structure too or just the sheet metal on the outside?

I guess I won't know until I cut into this thing whats really going on, I am just trying to get a grasp of what is beneath the surface that might need attention.

It is the same situation out back above my rear tail-lights.

Otherwise I don't have a ton of rust. The seam behind the doors where the tub and the rear fender meet at the rocker looks like it may be the next spot to go... not to mention my top is straight rotten.

I think this summer I am going to go hog wild on it and replace all the rust with new steel and squirt some fresh smurf blue onto it!
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Old 03-18-2010, 10:48 AM
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Just MHO, but from your other threads, it seemed like you were getting ready to sell it here shortly. Just thinking it might not be worth the time to fix it all up, and instead spend the coin/time on getting the trailer ready for the new rig, if you are keeping the trailer.

Anyway, just my 0.02, I just hate spending time that I won't get to appreciate later on.

As for the questions, I don't have 40 specific experience, but its been my experience on the 4runner that you have to replace the affected areas, and then use a GOOD (3m or better) seam sealer where you've welded. It will cost a bit more, but its VERY worth it. Have to use a GOOD self etch primer for the sealer to work well too. depending on the spots you have to do, one can of primer may do the trick, but it'll cost you close to 20 bucks for the can. Figure 20 ish per tube of the seam sealer too, and you have to get a few, as it helps to be very generous with it.

I've cut corners on the products, thinking that the extra coin was just name brand, and its shown.
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Old 03-18-2010, 11:27 AM
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Isaac,
What brands do you use and where do you get them? I am about to tackle some rust and need it to last.
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Old 03-18-2010, 12:19 PM
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Isaac,
What brands do you use and where do you get them? I am about to tackle some rust and need it to last.
3m makes a decent seam sealer. There are better, but it gets pricey.

The etch primer I've used is sherwin williams top of the line etch primer, forgot what its called. Go to a sherwin williams auto and ask them about it.

Its one of those things where you really do get what you pay for.
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Old 03-18-2010, 12:23 PM
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Drew, disregard the selling comments! Just saw your other thread! LOL!!!
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Old 03-19-2010, 08:39 AM
SteveH SteveH is offline
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I would (and have) cut away the front fender support from about the middle of the fender (laterally) outward to the lip. That support will always trap mud/water. The function of the support will still be there - at least to the middle, and that part that is left can be effectively cleaned. Another option would be to replace the metal and/or support, and drill the support and install a zerk fitting so that you can pump the entire 'trapped' area full of grease right after you paint it, and before you 'wheel it. This is hard-core rust prevention, I'll admit, but if a trapped area is already full of grease, it cannot rust.
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Old 03-19-2010, 09:10 AM
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Metal Tech tube fenders would be the best solution IMO but you loose the stock factor if its important to you?
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Old 03-19-2010, 11:22 AM
bustanutley bustanutley is offline
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to truly fix the problem you will need to seperate the two materials. Drill out the spot welds, media blast, paint, then stick the two parts back together.
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Old 03-19-2010, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
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Metal Tech tube fenders would be the best solution IMO but you loose the stock factor if its important to you?
If you deicde to go with tube fenders considering having Justin out at Redline make a set for you. When it's all said and done the cost will be about the same as building the MT kit and you will end up with something much stronger than MT's fenders. Mine were strong enough to withstand 2 roll overs with no damage other than spray painting some scuff marks.
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Old 03-19-2010, 11:45 AM
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or build them yourself. Your no stranger to bending and cutting tube.
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