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  #11  
Old 03-23-2010, 09:33 AM
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Dave what level cam did you put in? Sounds like a level two for more mid to upper range power. I want to put in the level 1 for low end torque. Maybe we can meet up and try each others motors and make a deal. Who knows this may be a win win situation.
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  #12  
Old 03-23-2010, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by RicardoJM View Post
I don't have the experience you are looking for, but I have recently found that I am learning much more about 22r/re engines. I'd like to lend a hand/learn when you take this job on and will be watching this thread.
Thanks, I will take all the eyes and hands I can get. I just have to figure out what I want/need to do. Maybe work a deal with Dave, we'll see.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockRunner;
keys = Man that is a whole story


TLCA #6136
Going under the knife again !

85 4runner Marlin Ultimate 5" lift 40" MTR's Soft top and doors Towed to Moab by the Big Blue Whale, 07.5 Dodge Mega Cab Laramie 4" lift covered and chiped No more slow lane for me
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  #13  
Old 03-23-2010, 09:39 AM
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Tom,

If you're happy with the head you have you don't have to pull it off just to install a new cam. But, whats he's offering you is exactly the same head and cam that I have on mine. Just make sure the compression on your bottom end is good. Bring it over to my place and I'll give you a hand, the 22RE are pretty easy to work on. Unless your timing chain is fairly new you probably want to replace it at the same time.

Or, maybe Dave wants to swap the entire motor?

Dave,

You got something wrong with yours buddy. I have the same head and cam and it starts the instant you hit the key, idles perfectly, never pops and seems to have torque like a 2F. What was really nice was you could lug it down to 1100-1200 rpm at Moab crawling obstacles and then drive right on through it without winding it up. Ran just like a good ol' 2F. The big difference I noticed from when I had the stock cam is on top end. The stock cam would pull up into the low 5,000 rpms. With the 261C it goes totally flat at 4500 rpm. Makes sense since it was made to take away on the top end and give it more torque on the bottom end.

It really sounds like your issue may be more related to the modified injection system, maybe a bum injector?
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  #14  
Old 03-23-2010, 09:42 AM
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Dave,

I may have a spare stock throttle body you are welcome to. If yours has a problem I'm not sure we want to transfer the issue over to Tom's truck when he's headed for Moab.
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Old 03-23-2010, 11:25 AM
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Dave (Sorry Tom for the hijack)..

So you degree'd it with a degree wheel and an indicator on the valve? The cam should have some with a cam card that had a recommended setup (like x lift at x degrees). Depending on the motor and the desired results you'd degree it differently. You know that another option besides an adjustable cam gear is to use an offset cam key... they are usually pretty cheap. I've used them on a few motors that were close.

Seems like with all the stuff done to it it should really be a runner. I am sure the ignition timing is perfect, and again with everything done to it it makes sense that you'd be running a little lean before richening it up a bit.

Anyways, 222* duration is not that wild, it should idle smooth as a stone and fire right up. Sounds like a good low RPM cam. I haven't build too many crazy N/A motors, but the wildest (which can't really be considered THAT wild) had a 286* duration cam in it and it fires right up and idles well at about 900RPM. Sounds lopey, but it idles on all cylinders.

I dunno, maybe you went through all this, but I figured I'd throw it out there.

Edit: It's not a POS, sounds like a sweet setup.....
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Old 03-23-2010, 12:23 PM
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Take your adjustable cam sprocket and twiddle till she sings. You'll get it. You gotta be sorta close, just tweak it. Should run like a champ.
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  #17  
Old 03-23-2010, 01:02 PM
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I think he said that that the adjustable Sproket is not installed.

It actually sounds More like a fuel issue now that I read back on all of dave's posts. What's your timing set at ? You should need a bit more whith a more agressive set up
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  #18  
Old 03-23-2010, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TIMZTOY View Post
I think he said that that the adjustable Sproket is not installed.

It actually sounds More like a fuel issue now that I read back on all of dave's posts. What's your timing set at ? You should need a bit more whith a more agressive set up
X2. I would be focusing on the FI system and all it's bits & pieces before I start tearing into the cam. I'll bet the cam & cam timing are fine. As long as you understand the 261 C is a true crawler cam and that it moves all the performance down to the bottom end it will be OK. I'm wondering though, for a DD 22RE where having the high rpm performance might be better, you might want to consider swapping in EB's 270/430HO cam for better on street performance.

Dave-If you need to take your vehicle out of service for a week or two in order to get it fixed and running right, I'm more than happy to loan you the 40 or the mini to drive until you get yours back on the road.

Have you asked Robbie to take a stab at diagnosing your rig?
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  #19  
Old 03-23-2010, 03:07 PM
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Weird, seems like he would have given you angles to check the cam position at. Also, I missed the part where you said you had an adjustable cam gear you hadn't installed yet, that's why I was suggesting offset keys. Sorry about that...

That popback you describe sound like the pop that I've heard carb'd motors make when they are idling too lean. does it pop back through the intake?

Maybe we need a new thread "Help diagnose Dave's Engine problems" before we continue to muddle Tom's thread..

Anyways, check this out.. lifted from the isky cam site, you can check and see if it is near Ok without taking anything really apart:

CHECKING VALVE OVERLAP WITHOUT DEGREE WHEEL OR DIAL INDICATOR
When installing a camshaft, or when an occasion arises where it is necessary to make a check on valve timing and no appropriate instruments are available, the recommended Isky procedure is as follows:

Insert the camshaft and mesh the timing gears on the stock marks. Do not as yet install the timing gear cover.
Using a long wrench or lever, turn the engine over in the normal running direction. Use enough leverage to get an even, steady movement instead of a jerky motion. Rotate until the intake and exhaust valves of No. 1 cylinder are in the overlap position (both valves opened slightly). Stop exactly on T.D.C., which is marked on the harmonic damper.
Now loosen and back off the rocker arm adjusting screws until the intake and exhaust valves are just barely closed. Lock the tappet adjustment screws so that the intake and exhaust valves are at exactly zero clearance.
Now turn the engine over exactly one revolution of the crankshaft to T.D.C. on the harmonic damper. You are now at T.D.C. on the compression or firing stroke.
Take notice! Now there is a large space between the rockers and valve stem tips. This space indicates the actual amount the valves were open at T.D.C. of the overlap period (less valve lash, of course).
We will measure this gap space by probing with common feeler gauges of various thicknesses combined until we determine the gap space. After computing the gap, record the figures for both intake and exhaust in your notebook. If the amount of gap on intake and exhaust is exactly the same, you have a perfect split overlap.
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  #20  
Old 03-23-2010, 03:23 PM
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This is whta I was thinking of getting for a cam and BB throtle body Ialready have the exhaust and intake so I should be good with just those two parts.

I know I don't have a race engine in the 22RE but a little more grunt is always nice. Plus I do not want to dump to much money into it as I still plan on changing motors in the future, most likely a 2.7 since it is easier unless I win the lottery

So what do all you engine builder guys think? I thought about a new head by the motor is only 4 years old with maybe 20K on it.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockRunner;
keys = Man that is a whole story


TLCA #6136
Going under the knife again !

85 4runner Marlin Ultimate 5" lift 40" MTR's Soft top and doors Towed to Moab by the Big Blue Whale, 07.5 Dodge Mega Cab Laramie 4" lift covered and chiped No more slow lane for me
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