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Old 04-18-2010, 09:47 PM
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Default Routine Maintenance brings the suck this weekend.

Long story short, my youngest brother, Aaron, bought a super charged 3.4L 1998 4runner last fall.

He was experiencing an occasional "miss" or "hesitation" under accel, but only periodically, not all the time.

After thinking about it, and because the truck is so new to him, I suggested starting with a simple tune up, beginning with plugs and wires, and going on from there, to see if the problem was eliminated. If nothing else, its a good thing to take care of, regardless.

So, picked up some plugs from Jerry, and some wires, and went to town. Gapped them at .043, so hopefully that's okay with the S/C.

Anyway, got the whole passenger bank done, and were working on the driver bank, when the middle driver bank plug snapped off, leaving the threads, and the ground electrode in the head.

After considering the options for a while, I determined that we had no choice but to pull the head, as it is just about guaranteed that an extraction was going to drop crap on top of the cylinders.



I've never done anything this deep in a motor before, so its a learning experience.

So far, I've got the driver side valve cover off, the SC and intake manifold off (after having some fun manually depressurizing the fuel injector rails).

Anyway, I'm at the point of dealing with camshafts and timing belts, so I've significantly slowed down, as this is the whole ball game, so to speak.

Chatted with UB about it a bit, and am still a bit shaky, so I'm trying to research a bit more. I like to understand the stuff I'm taking apart, and I've only got about 75% of the timing system.

Pics of the progress:





At this point, I see zero reason NOT to do the passenger side head gasket at this time. I'm already this far. Also a Timing belt and a water pump. Unless someone has a good reason not to.

However, the more I look at things, I really feel like I should line stuff up and just remove the timing belt, as I am worried about things moving once I begin removing the cams. Also, the cams supposedly have marks on them, but I'm not sure when those line up. Reading suggests they'll line up when the No. 1 cyl is at TDC. Anyone know if that is correct? If so, I'm just going to cycle the motor around, put No. 1 at TDC, and remove the timing belt to save some headache trying to line it up later.

However, I'm open to suggestions. Definitely a first timer here, so I welcome all advice and constructive criticism.
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Old 04-18-2010, 10:09 PM
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man, Isaac, not sure I'd have the cajones to tackle that one but I'm enjoying the pictures as I've never seen one popped open before. Hey if you do the other side, do the PCV & grommet as long as you got that valve cover off, would be one less bit of crusty rubber left behind. And yeah I'd probably do the timing belt, water pump, pulleys, etc. too. wish I was better help, but you know who the experts are.. good luck man.
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Old 04-18-2010, 10:40 PM
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Since that engine has no significant history of head gaskets, I'm not sure I'd pull the pass. side head just for fun. But, you are running a supercharger.. depends on how much more work you want to add to your day. I hope you have the factory manual for this. And I'd sure do every gasket, the t-belt, water pump, etc. You don't want any leaks after it's buttoned up. I've skipped replacing a few odd parts in the past, and regretted the leaks later.
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Old 04-18-2010, 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by nakman View Post
man, Isaac, not sure I'd have the cajones to tackle that one but I'm enjoying the pictures as I've never seen one popped open before. Hey if you do the other side, do the PCV & grommet as long as you got that valve cover off, would be one less bit of crusty rubber left behind. And yeah I'd probably do the timing belt, water pump, pulleys, etc. too. wish I was better help, but you know who the experts are.. good luck man.
Thanks Tim!

Good thinking on the PCV and grommet.
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Old 04-18-2010, 10:49 PM
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Since that engine has no significant history of head gaskets, I'm not sure I'd pull the pass. side head just for fun. But, you are running a supercharger.. depends on how much more work you want to add to your day. I hope you have the factory manual for this. And I'd sure do every gasket, the t-belt, water pump, etc. You don't want any leaks after it's buttoned up. I've skipped replacing a few odd parts in the past, and regretted the leaks later.
All gaskets we remove are being replaced with OEM. Waiting on head gaskets right now.

As for the passenger side, I'm torn. My OCD says do everything, so its all matching. I also see the point of not getting into something that doesn't have to be touched. The valve cover gasket is leaking, so that has to be replaced regardless.
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Old 04-18-2010, 11:09 PM
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I would get the DS pulled off and have a look see on carbon and overal shape of the combustion chambers. If there is build up on the vave stems in the pocket or even the CC's pull the other head to and have both freshened up since you are so close at this point. If the DS head is clean and healthy, probably wont gain you much by having the heads freshened so put it back together and drive it. Good luck on the broken plug and lets hope it was due to over tightening rather than cross threading!
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Old 04-18-2010, 11:16 PM
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Wow Isaac, you are a good big brother.

I didn't realize the plug broke off in the cylinder when you were talking about it today, I thought the threads were boogered up, not having a chunk of spark plug in the hole.

I'm with you, if you are that deep, might as well do it once and do it right. However, I think UB is right, if the one that you get off looks purdy, chances are the other is the same.

Hollar if you need anything.

Drew
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Old 04-19-2010, 03:03 PM
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Wow, Isaac. go get 'em!

Without the book, I dunno know to time the cams. The timing marks on the 3vze cams line up with indentations pressed into the back of the timing case tin. Roll the engine to TDC #1. everything should line up. On the 3vze the replacement parts are the timing belt, water pump, idler pully, tensioner pully, >200,000miles = front main seal.

On the plugs: I tested out the platinum 100,000 mile thing. it was a little hard to get the center plugs out. When it got tight, I just threaded it back in, then out again before I broke it off. Little wd-40 around the hole...just kept working it in and out until it was out all the way. Did I drop rust or carbon into the cylider by cranking the dirt/rust off the end of the plug? probably. but I certainly won't worry about it. Maybe this is why you really should just run regular plugs and change them every couple of years? Keep the threads from getting rusty in the combustion chamber.

My engine runs EXACTLY the same with standard plugs vs the 100,000 mile old platinum plugs. *shrugs*
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Old 04-19-2010, 07:19 PM
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Another great reason as to why you should use anti seize on the threads!

Bummer to hear this dude. glad to see you are doing it right though!
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Old 04-19-2010, 10:00 PM
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Tonight I gave up trying to go "shortcut", and decided to go by the book.

I got the radiator, fan, shroud, PS pump, AC, and alternator unbolted and ziptied out of the way.

I removed the fan bracket, and most of the timing covers, and the crank pulley.

Got everything lined up at TDC.

Now, I will remove the tensioner on the timing belt, and the belt itself, so that I can work on the head without worry, and only have to align everything back up to TDC and put it back together.
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