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  #11  
Old 04-19-2010, 11:14 PM
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According to the manual, the timing belt is supposed to have markings on it, but this one did not.

So, I made my own:

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Old 04-20-2010, 09:40 AM
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Looking good. Keep it up bud. If you need someone to heckle you from over your shoulder, I'm your man.
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Old 04-20-2010, 09:45 AM
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Wow...this project sure snowballed.
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  #14  
Old 04-20-2010, 09:54 AM
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How old is the belt:
If you are going to this amount of time, saving 50 buck on a belt is a bad idea. But if the belt has very miles then save the money. Good luck. You know my number if you need to call.
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Old 04-20-2010, 10:28 AM
leiniesred leiniesred is offline
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Yeah, that is pretty much how the new belt comes marked, except they use yellow paint and they also put 2 lines at the crank dot if I reacall.
Looks like you found the indents where the cam gears line up.

No real tricks to putting the belt on right again. Just basic "makes sense" logic. Remember which direction the engine turns and keep that side tight between the sprockets. Then, when you let the tensioner do it's thing, it sucks up the slack on the loose side and all your marks stay right where they are supposed to be. If you do it wrong, when you let the tensioner take over, a cog or two will shift and you'll make the homer simpson noise before starting over.

I don't think anti-seize would make a difference. The problem isn't the threads in the head, or even the shoulder of the plugs, the threads in the combustion chamber get rusty after about 10 years. You start to extract the plug, it gets to the rusty threads, then gets tight.
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Old 04-20-2010, 11:05 AM
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Looking good. Keep it up bud. If you need someone to heckle you from over your shoulder, I'm your man.
Sounds good. Only issue is, I've been working on it at night after I get back from work and the gym, and its only an hour or two at a time, so I'm not sure what your work and Dax schedule is, but you are more than welcome to come on by. Text or PM me for directions.
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  #17  
Old 04-20-2010, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bighead View Post
Wow...this project sure snowballed.
No joke.

Quote:
Originally Posted by powderpig View Post
How old is the belt:
If you are going to this amount of time, saving 50 buck on a belt is a bad idea. But if the belt has very miles then save the money. Good luck. You know my number if you need to call.
The belt is getting replaced. We have no idea when it was done last, so an OEM one is going on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by leiniesred View Post
Yeah, that is pretty much how the new belt comes marked, except they use yellow paint and they also put 2 lines at the crank dot if I reacall.
Looks like you found the indents where the cam gears line up.

No real tricks to putting the belt on right again. Just basic "makes sense" logic. Remember which direction the engine turns and keep that side tight between the sprockets. Then, when you let the tensioner do it's thing, it sucks up the slack on the loose side and all your marks stay right where they are supposed to be. If you do it wrong, when you let the tensioner take over, a cog or two will shift and you'll make the homer simpson noise before starting over.

I don't think anti-seize would make a difference. The problem isn't the threads in the head, or even the shoulder of the plugs, the threads in the combustion chamber get rusty after about 10 years. You start to extract the plug, it gets to the rusty threads, then gets tight.
Good tips! Thanks.
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  #18  
Old 04-20-2010, 11:08 AM
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Now, for the 64,000 dollar question:

How are spark plugs threaded in?

Are they solely in the head, or are they in the block, or both?
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  #19  
Old 04-20-2010, 01:06 PM
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they are just in the head. When you pull that head off you'll be able to stare at the bottom peice of the broken off one. I wonder how cleanly it broke off... MAYBE you can weld a nut to the side that is in the chamber and screw it out that way...
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  #20  
Old 04-20-2010, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover67 View Post
they are just in the head. When you pull that head off you'll be able to stare at the bottom peice of the broken off one. I wonder how cleanly it broke off... MAYBE you can weld a nut to the side that is in the chamber and screw it out that way...

Once its off and on the bench you should be able to use a large seat extractor (buy cheap ones at Home Depot or Lowes for plumbing) and hopefully twist it back out. You might have to drill it to make a clean bore for the extractor to grab. A good machine shop can do it for you too probably cheaper than the extractor would cost. Hopefully the treads are still in good shape or you will need to Heli-coil them. Again a machine shop can do both without wasted time and other possible damage.
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