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  #21  
Old 04-20-2010, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by rover67 View Post
they are just in the head. When you pull that head off you'll be able to stare at the bottom peice of the broken off one. I wonder how cleanly it broke off... MAYBE you can weld a nut to the side that is in the chamber and screw it out that way...
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Once its off and on the bench you should be able to use a large seat extractor (buy cheap ones at Home Depot or Lowes for plumbing) and hopefully twist it back out. You might have to drill it to make a clean bore for the extractor to grab. A good machine shop can do it for you too probably cheaper than the extractor would cost. Hopefully the treads are still in good shape or you will need to Heli-coil them. Again a machine shop can do both without wasted time and other possible damage.
Thanks dudes.

Thats what I thought, but I wanted to make sure.

I'm going to evaluate the head once its off. I have a good set of extractors that I'll use if it looks possible. If not, I'll be going to a shop with it.

Just left a message with Jerry for an order of a new timing belt, new head gasket, new intake manifold gaskets, and a water pump.

For now, I'm leaving the other head off the list. I'll see what this looks like first.
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  #22  
Old 04-20-2010, 12:48 PM
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Do you need a true bar to check flatness? I have a couple, small and large.
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  #23  
Old 04-20-2010, 02:11 PM
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Yes I do. I didn't even know to check that. I'll ring you later, but the head isn't off yet, so I won't need it ASAP anyway.

Cheers!

Isaac
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  #24  
Old 04-20-2010, 03:20 PM
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Robbie, UB, et al:

Any trade secrets to getting the head off? FSM says to pry it with a screw driver, which I don't like at all, as there is too much potential for damage to the surface. Hanes says to place a block of wood against the side of the head, and tap it off with a hammer.

What do you all use?
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  #25  
Old 04-20-2010, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by AxleIke View Post
Robbie, UB, et al:

Any trade secrets to getting the head off? FSM says to pry it with a screw driver, which I don't like at all, as there is too much potential for damage to the surface. Hanes says to place a block of wood against the side of the head, and tap it off with a hammer.

What do you all use?
Put two head bolts in loosely. Grab some wooden dowels or broom handles or ???? and slip them in to 2 intake holes and gently but with a sharp movement pop the head loose. Make sure its still on the deck alignment dowels, remove the loose head bolts and lift the head out.
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  #26  
Old 04-20-2010, 11:05 PM
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Thought I might get the head off tonight, but no such luck.

Stuck on the exhaust manifold, but MAN I love air tools. Getting all of the pulley bolts off= super easy with an impact.

I thought I could MAYBE get enough play in the manifold to not have to remove the x-over pipe, but I think its going to have to come off, which SUCKS.

I also didn't have very much time tonight, as I had grilling duties, and had to hit Costco on the way home.

Anyway, progress:

Removed the AC bracket, timing belt tensioner, top idler pulley, the timing belt, and the LH cam pulley.



Any ideas on quick ways to get these monstrosities out?



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  #27  
Old 04-21-2010, 05:44 AM
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Use a internal torx socket(8) I believe to remove the studs. It usually only takes a few minutes to remove and makes my life easier when I do this type of work.
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  #28  
Old 04-21-2010, 10:22 AM
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Use a internal torx socket(8) I believe to remove the studs. It usually only takes a few minutes to remove and makes my life easier when I do this type of work.
Ah! Genious! I was wondering how to get those out! Much easier that way.
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  #29  
Old 04-21-2010, 10:25 AM
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Or plasma!
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  #30  
Old 04-21-2010, 12:19 PM
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Or plasma!
LOL. True, but I think my brother isn't looking to do headers at this time, as this cost is quite a bit higher than the original spark plug job anyway! LOL.
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