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  #11  
Old 05-26-2010, 08:10 PM
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Ok so got about 1/3 the way through the brake job today. Vacuum cap worked fabulous to plug the flared end on the hard line while I messed with calipers. That was the part of the job that went well

However, I'll shortly be starting my thread of "things the PO did that make me angry". The list is long, but the one that got me today was the shims freaking glued to the brake pads. Boo! (As I am new to this, is this an accepted practice? I have never seen it before.)

So I have 2 questions for you all.
  1. Are the shims necessary for the brakes on these, both front and back? The fronts are pretty much toast as they are COVERED in some glue, and I have no shims for the rear as the pads that came off had some sort of integrated shim in them. Was thinking since some folks run hundo series pads without shims, that maybe its ok to do it? Not sure I'll have time to track some down before the weekend, but if its not safe I wont drive it.
  2. Being that I was too cheap to get Toyota Calipers, the napa ones came with some wear indicator that doesnt quite match the FSM. I put it on the upper side of the pad, as opposed to the lower. Think it makes any difference?





Notice the little clip at the top of the brake pad...I guess its the wear indicator. Not sure if it goes on the top or bottom.


At any rate, I got all rotors on, both passenger side calipers done, and two soft lines replaced.
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  #12  
Old 05-26-2010, 09:10 PM
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TIMZTOY TIMZTOY is offline
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yes you should use the shims they keep down the squeek.. that "glue" is actually brake grease. to also keep squeeks and rattles away. its normal.. you can drive on anything as long as the pad material is facing the rotor.. but i highly reccomend using the brake grease and shims togther.. you dont need to go over kill like the PO did.. and the grease dose not need to be between the shim and pad.. only on the outside of the shim and any contact areas that slide on the caliper.. but like i said you dont need either for the pads to operate..
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  #13  
Old 05-27-2010, 12:04 AM
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IMO no worries running the pads without the anti-squeal shims for the time being, even forever if you can live with the potential squealing...As you mention, when you fit on 100 series pads up front on the 80, the shims won't fit (initially) anyway. For the most part my fronts are quiet. Now that you've done the hard part though, going back in and installing shims later probably wouldn't take you but an hour for all 4...You'll spend more time jacking up the truck, pulling tires, etc. than installing the shims.

As for the wear indicators...I can't remember which way I installed mine other than I followed what the FSM showed. IIRC they were on the bottom of the pads but whadda I know. Bottom seems to make sense as they would get pushed down and away when they start hitting vs. down and into the pad if they were on the top (if that makes sense). If the caliper dictates placement though go with it...

For anti-squeal I used the CRC Disk Brake Quiet stuff...seems to have worked fine

Don't forget to bed in the new brake pads properly - lots of "suggestions" on the web via Google search but I followed this one --> Brake Bed In Procedure

A lot easier that the 8 stops from 60 to 0 you'll see suggested by some...Oh, and this only applies to the front pads...You'll smoke the front pads trying to bed in the rear pads

EDIT: Just looked at the picture in the FSM for the rear brakes (that you have pictured above) and it looks like Mr T shows the wear indicator at the top - I don't even see anything in the FSM regarding the front wear indicators...Good thing I have a FSM and don't work on my truck from memory
Attached Images
File Type: pdf Front Brake Pad Comps.pdf (23.5 KB, 40 views)
File Type: pdf Rear Brake Pad Comps.pdf (24.2 KB, 40 views)
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  #14  
Old 05-27-2010, 08:38 AM
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Ok so called the toyota dealer in ft. collins, and all the shims are order-items. Not only that, but they are crazy-expensive. I think 45-ish bucks for the front and like 26 for the rear. I think I may just put a thin coating of brake grease between the pad and caliper and run them for a while.

So....out of curiosity does anyone have some shims they dont want cause they went to 100 series pads, or had some extras lying around? I'd much rather spend my money on beer for someone than 75 bucks for tiny pieces of metal from toyota.

I also asked about a combo pad/shim kit from toyota, but apparently not an option for the 80 series? Might have to shoot Cdan a pm.
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  #15  
Old 05-27-2010, 06:17 PM
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That's crazy - I'd definitely call CDan or Derek at Stevinson or Jerry at Boulder Toyota. Something doesn't sound right.

Did you try cleaning up the old ones? Mine were nasty gross but I was surprised at how well they cleaned up with some brake cleaner. I'd give you my shims but I really do plan on putting them back on, someday
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'97 LX450 - aka "The Whale"
'97 FZJ80 Antique Sage AE #267, stock
12/74 FJ40, 2F, SM420, 4" Lift, ARBs, 33" MTRs

:

"...anything else i can do for you guys, how about i wash your car or mow your lawn while you figure out your firewall system? I am now boarderline insane/unibomber." Kipper

"That assumes I'm even capable of pulling and stabbing..." Jacket

"I really like having a detachable unit." Beater
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  #16  
Old 05-27-2010, 09:31 PM
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Yep, so that was my second thought, to clean up the shims. So I did that, and promply noticed that the shims are not oem either! If you look closely in the pic with the pads, you can see that only about 2/3 of the piston actually contacted the shim, because its too small and the wrong shape. boo.

So...I just put a thin film of brake grease between the pads and the pistons, and we'll see how that goes. I'm at 6/7 soft lines done, and all the calipers pretty much bled. Have to try my luck at bleeding the lspv tomorrow, and if it passes the final inspection, off to Utah this weekend!
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  #17  
Old 05-28-2010, 12:36 AM
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I didn't find bleeding the LSPV to be any different than bleeding the calipers...Don't get discouraged though if you have mushy brakes after bleeding the brakes the first time around. Just do repeat the process until everything feels good. Are you doing the power bleeder method or the old school 2-person manual method?
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Jeff Z. (the "not quite as skinny" one)
TLCA #17037
'97 LX450 - aka "The Whale"
'97 FZJ80 Antique Sage AE #267, stock
12/74 FJ40, 2F, SM420, 4" Lift, ARBs, 33" MTRs

:

"...anything else i can do for you guys, how about i wash your car or mow your lawn while you figure out your firewall system? I am now boarderline insane/unibomber." Kipper

"That assumes I'm even capable of pulling and stabbing..." Jacket

"I really like having a detachable unit." Beater
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  #18  
Old 05-28-2010, 07:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corsair23 View Post
Are you doing the power bleeder method or the old school 2-person manual method?
I've been going with the old school 2 person method. I do have a motive sitting in the garage, but last time I tried it on the 80, I ended up with a puddle of brake fluid on the floor. If the 2 person deal doesn't work out, I may try it again and see if I can get a better seal on the MC reservoir. Plus new hose clamps for it, since it leaks there too :\
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  #19  
Old 05-28-2010, 10:00 AM
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Wow...so tons of air in the lspv. It just seems to keep flowing. I bled the system once, then went around and did the 4 wheel cyls again, and then back to the lspv, and there is still air there. Hopefully there is not air coming into the system somewhere, but I see no leaks, so hopefully just a good sign that there was tons of air in teh system before and getting it out now.
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  #20  
Old 05-28-2010, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coax View Post
I do have a motive sitting in the garage, but last time I tried it on the 80, I ended up with a puddle of brake fluid on the floor. If the 2 person deal doesn't work out, I may try it again and see if I can get a better seal on the MC reservoir. Plus new hose clamps for it, since it leaks there too :\
First time I tried the Motive I didn't have such great results either...Second go around things went much, much better - obviously a tight seal is critical. I've found the Motive to be awesome for when you are flushing the fluid or changing out major components like you did. For the times when you just change pads etc. IMO the Motive is more work than it is worth, if you can find a helper to do things the old school way.

Still might try those Speed Bleeders someday though...
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Jeff Z. (the "not quite as skinny" one)
TLCA #17037
'97 LX450 - aka "The Whale"
'97 FZJ80 Antique Sage AE #267, stock
12/74 FJ40, 2F, SM420, 4" Lift, ARBs, 33" MTRs

:

"...anything else i can do for you guys, how about i wash your car or mow your lawn while you figure out your firewall system? I am now boarderline insane/unibomber." Kipper

"That assumes I'm even capable of pulling and stabbing..." Jacket

"I really like having a detachable unit." Beater
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