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  #21  
Old 06-30-2010, 07:37 AM
J Kimmel J Kimmel is offline
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another thing to consider, is think about what you want to end up with, and don't get too caught up in the details...I've seen plenty of builds stall out because the guy can't decide what to do, or it has to be perfect, or something.

I don't think you'll have too much trouble with that
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  #22  
Old 06-30-2010, 07:59 AM
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Issac, I have several IFS steering setups laying around if you want them. No guarantee on condition, but they all came off bone stock 4runners or pickups so they should be in good shape. It might be a good idea to carry some spares as that setup looks scary to say the least.
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  #23  
Old 06-30-2010, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by AddictedOffroad View Post
Issac, I have several IFS steering setups laying around if you want them. No guarantee on condition, but they all came off bone stock 4runners or pickups so they should be in good shape. It might be a good idea to carry some spares as that setup looks scary to say the least.
Thanks man, but I do have a few spares lying around.

Agreed on scary. I'm going to do something different, and am scrapping this version.

I am going to move the steering box forward, which I have to do when it gets sas'd anyway, and the idler arm too. This will allow the tie rods to be one straight piece of .25 wall DOM.
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  #24  
Old 07-04-2010, 12:54 AM
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Alrighty.

Got some good work in today. Got the steering disassembled, and the steering box removed (a huge mess).

Then started measuring, marking and cutting the areas of the front clip that needed to be cut out, and made quick work of it with the plasma:



Then, got the box into position, and marked out where the holes were to go in the new location. Using a long bit for a pilot and then a nice HF step bit (great bang for your buck BTW) the holes were drilled out and the old bungs were ground off so that both sides of the frame had smooth, clean surfaces:



Then, back to scissors and card board, which was then transfered to plate and plasma'd out:



There are two plates, one in the outside, and one on the inside. The outer plate is 1/4" and the inner is 3/16".

The plates were then installed with tubes running through the frame, and everything was welded into place:



Then, the tubes were cut off and the face was ground smooth so the box can mount up flush:



Finally, the box was stuck on, the relay rod, and a yet un-assembled tie rod to check for fitment:



I like this much better already. I think my original idea was just plain flawed, and while this is a lot more work, I think it will be stronger in the end.

The other thing that will have to happen is that the relay rod will be cut, and sleeved with .250 wall DOM, to make it stronger and lengthen it the appropriate length for the fact that the box, and soon, the idler, will be spaced out 7/16".

From everything I can tell, it is a forged piece, but none the less, I will be heating it to 500F in my barbeque, welding, and then post heating in the barbeque as well, just to be sure that it stays straight and doesn't get brittle.

Tomorrow I will work on mounting the idler arm
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  #25  
Old 07-04-2010, 01:22 AM
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Just a thought... could you ditch the idler arm completely and go from the pitman all the way over? If you could drop the pitman a bit, I bet the bump steer would be no worse than stock (which isn't horrible IIRC). The asymmetry might not be so bad... dunno.

Another thought... keep the idler, make a relay rod and make the outer tie rods longer; meet closer to the middle. You would have to re-engineer the skid plate. That would, I think, reduce the stress on the idler, distribute it between the pitman and the idler more equally, and move it to the relay rod (which could be made plenty stout).

A third thought... combine the two ideas. Bring the driver's outer tie rod to the middle of the vehicle more or less, while continuing the drag link to the steering arm. Hey, just because that's what Heep does, doesn't mean it's horrible...
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  #26  
Old 07-04-2010, 01:28 AM
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Its not a matter of time. Its a matter of money. I don't want the "same old" so my plans for a swap entail waiting until after a certain gets done planning a wedding

As I keep telling her, Diamonds aren't just for girls any more. And, for the price of hers, I could have two very well outfitted ones with money to spare.

On a side note, why don't we have a vomit emoticon. Perfectly describes how I feel about wedding planning and the whole concept of weddings these days in general.
Uh... would that be YOUR wedding? Or someone else's? If the former...
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  #27  
Old 07-04-2010, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red_Chili View Post
Just a thought... could you ditch the idler arm completely and go from the pitman all the way over? If you could drop the pitman a bit, I bet the bump steer would be no worse than stock (which isn't horrible IIRC). The asymmetry might not be so bad... dunno.

Another thought... keep the idler, make a relay rod and make the outer tie rods longer; meet closer to the middle. You would have to re-engineer the skid plate. That would, I think, reduce the stress on the idler, distribute it between the pitman and the idler more equally, and move it to the relay rod (which could be made plenty stout).

A third thought... combine the two ideas. Bring the driver's outer tie rod to the middle of the vehicle more or less, while continuing the drag link to the steering arm. Hey, just because that's what Heep does, doesn't mean it's horrible...
Not really, as I read that someone tried that (who knows if its true, but it does make sense to me) and ended up with horrendous bump steer.

I'm really not worried about the idler any more. I have a total chaos arm.
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  #28  
Old 07-04-2010, 10:59 AM
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Deleted for off topic.
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Last edited by AxleIke; 07-05-2010 at 10:00 AM.
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  #29  
Old 07-04-2010, 03:32 PM
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Deleted for off topic
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Last edited by AxleIke; 07-05-2010 at 10:00 AM.
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  #30  
Old 07-05-2010, 11:20 PM
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Got rid of all the off topic stuff. Sorry for the rants, just not in a good mood.

Anyway, today I got the idler side all done up. Got the braces cut off the TC arm, and new ones welded on, so that the braces still bolt to the underside of the frame.

Also, pretty much determined the center link is forged= thank goodness.

Did two tests: Spark test which was simply just grinding on it. Sparks that are bright and scatter quite a bit are indicative of forged steel ( or so says the interwebs). Cast will have very few sparks and they will not scatter (supposedly)

The other is the ring test, so I suspended the relay rod (center link) by a zip tie, and tapped it with a hammer: Rang like a bell.

Also a good sign. Cast steel does not ring.

Also, cast parts generally have very thin marks, or seams, on them from the molds, where as forged parts will have very thick marks, or seams, where the forging hammers came together.

So, I ground down the link, cut it in half, and clearanced it (maybe a 1/32 of material was removed) to fit inside a 1.5 .250 wall DOM tube.

Now, I have to get my barbeque down stairs so I can heat this thing to weld it. Pre and post heat are not critical for forged material, but with a Miller 175 and a 1" thick relay rod, I'm guessing heating it isn't going to hurt anything.

Camera is acting up. I need the cord, which I left at work. Will hopefully have pics up tomorrow.
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