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  #21  
Old 06-30-2010, 09:00 PM
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why that much tire with 2"?
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Last edited by wesintl; 06-30-2010 at 10:03 PM.
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  #22  
Old 06-30-2010, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by coax View Post
x2. I was wondering this myself. So the shocks must be fairly stout in construction then to be able to lift a wheel on a fully loaded truck then?
I forget the guy's name, but we had an ARB rep come present to us one night and review the OME shocks, Billstein shocks, several ARB products.. the name will come to me in a minute. But I remember asking point blank if it was alright to use OME shocks as limiters and yes, they'll hold up to it fine. Maybe if you're taking them off a bunch of jumps then you'll wear them out, but normal wheeling articulation is normal use.


Corbet what kind of shocks are you getting? I've run just about every ride height, but all on the OME setups..
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  #23  
Old 06-30-2010, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corbet View Post
So where I am going with this....

I am getting ready to install a 2" lift in Aug. I have made arrangements to aquire the Iron Man lift given out during the CM10 raffle dinner. I know what some of you may be thinking. Hell must be freezing over Corbet is lifting his truck

So along with the 2" lift I will be moving up to 35/315 tires. So a pair of bump stop drops will also be required. This will take away some of my up travel so my thoughts are to possibly add some spacers on top of the springs to regain some of the travel by spacing down the suspension a little. Now I need to worry a little about the max length of the shocks. Iron Man says the shocks are good for 3" of lift. So I'm thinking I'm good but wanted a stronger understanding of what is going to limit the bottom end of the 80's suspension travel.

Continue discussion...
I'm lost.

Why do you need to move the bumpstops at all? Leave them stock, and retain as much travel as you can.
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  #24  
Old 06-30-2010, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corbet View Post
So where I am going with this....

I am getting ready to install a 2" lift in Aug. I have made arrangements to aquire the Iron Man lift given out during the CM10 raffle dinner. I know what some of you may be thinking. Hell must be freezing over Corbet is lifting his truck

So along with the 2" lift I will be moving up to 35/315 tires. So a pair of bump stop drops will also be required. This will take away some of my up travel so my thoughts are to possibly add some spacers on top of the springs to regain some of the travel by spacing down the suspension a little. Now I need to worry a little about the max length of the shocks. Iron Man says the shocks are good for 3" of lift. So I'm thinking I'm good but wanted a stronger understanding of what is going to limit the bottom end of the 80's suspension travel.

Continue discussion...


You doing gears too? 35's on an 80 start that expensive slippery slope thang!
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  #25  
Old 06-30-2010, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by wesintl View Post
why that much tire with 2"?
Why not? I'm running 295's now with stock suspension. With a lift I must need more right? I'd stick 37's under her if I could afford a 4" lift.


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Originally Posted by Uncle Ben View Post
You doing gears too? 35's on an 80 start that expensive slippery slope thang!
Gears (4.88) most likely next mod but not right away.

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Originally Posted by AxleIke View Post
Why do you need to move the bumpstops at all? Leave them stock, and retain as much travel as you can.
I'm rubbing my 295's now. 315 or 35" will definitely rub with full spring compression. I also need to leave room for chains in the winter.
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  #26  
Old 06-30-2010, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by nakman View Post
Corbet what kind of shocks are you getting? I've run just about every ride height, but all on the OME setups..
Iron Man foam units for the 2" kit. http://store.camel4x4.com/product/OV..._FOAMCELL.html
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  #27  
Old 07-01-2010, 08:25 AM
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IMO you are good to go.
At the moment I have about 4" of lift and I am still running the "standard" length OME shocks that came originally with my 2.5" lift. I know that this MAY limit the droop but I don't see it as a big deal .... I have not any issues on the trails (I ran this setup on Rubicon and all over Moab).
I realize that I won't score very high on a ramp but considering the other suspension limitations
of an 80 Series in the dynamic environment of a trail, I don't see that as a problem.
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  #28  
Old 07-01-2010, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Corbet View Post


I'm rubbing my 295's now. 315 or 35" will definitely rub with full spring compression. I also need to leave room for chains in the winter.
I still think limiting the flex that much more isn't worth it. Just cut out what you rub on. Likely all you are rubing is a pinch weld or body seam. You have a nice welder now, just cut it out and weld in a patch and voila, whatever size tire you want.
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  #29  
Old 07-01-2010, 10:02 AM
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I rub the top of the inner fender (plastic part) right now both front and back. Funny thing is I never used to rum up front until this year? Maybe my bumpstops are wearing and getting extra soft?

I'll install the kit then take a look. I'll be running my 295 TG until winter when I plan to get a set of studded GY Duratrac's in 315 unless I change my mind by then.
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  #30  
Old 07-01-2010, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AxleIke View Post
I still think limiting the flex that much more isn't worth it. Just cut out what you rub on. Likely all you are rubing is a pinch weld or body seam. You have a nice welder now, just cut it out and weld in a patch and voila, whatever size tire you want.
Not a mini! 80's rear tubs are narrow and the more articulation you get the more the tire will rub on the inner fenderwell. Fronts usually can be calmed with the removal of one inner fender well bolt. I'm running 4" bump stops on the back of mine which seems to be perfect.
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