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  #11  
Old 08-04-2010, 10:05 AM
Red72FJ40 Red72FJ40 is offline
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Hi Ricardo.

Choke knob and plate work fine. First thing I looked at. I will look for a vacumn leak tonight and reply.
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Last edited by Red72FJ40; 01-21-2011 at 11:13 AM.
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  #12  
Old 08-04-2010, 10:11 AM
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RicardoJM RicardoJM is offline
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The photo below is looking down on the carb and shows the two barrels. The choke plate is in the barrel on the right and open. When you pull on the choke knob, the choke plate will rotate and cover the barrel.



With the choke plate covering the barrel, the ratio of air to fuel is altered so that there is more fuel and less air. This altered mixture is needed for starting the engine and warming it up. By using starting fluid, you are doing the same thing, i.e. the ratio of air to fuel is being changed so there is more fuel and less air.

Oops, our posts crossed paths.
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  #13  
Old 08-04-2010, 10:18 AM
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Glad to hear the choke system is working. Also check the Accelerator Pump. With the air cleaner off, you should be able to move the accelerator pump lever up and down. As you do this, there should be a jet of fuel being sprayed down the barrel with the choke - "primary barrel".

The spray will should come out of the brass nozel that is visible (at the 1:00 position) in this photo of the venturi being removed from the primary barrel.
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  #14  
Old 08-04-2010, 10:22 AM
Red72FJ40 Red72FJ40 is offline
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Thanks for the pics, Ricardo. That helps a lot. I'll check it tonight and let you know what I find.
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Last edited by Red72FJ40; 01-21-2011 at 11:13 AM.
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  #15  
Old 08-04-2010, 10:27 AM
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My 02.:

1-You can rebuild the OEM carb yourself and it should be OK if done correctly but you will not get any performance enhancements.

2-You can go with a Trollhole carb. I've read a little about these and know they are made in China but not much else. If you had no carb at all this may be the way to go. My only concern (and maybe it isn't valid) would be getting parts for this thing in the future if Trollhole gets out of the business.

3-Since you appear to have the correct OEM carb for your engine, I would send it to Mark A or Jim C for a performance rebuild. I sent mine to Jim C and he asks what elevation you live at, what elevation range it will be used the most in, etc. He not only rebuilds the carb but he also modifies it for performance enhancements and then he ensures it is jetted correctly for the elevation where you're going to use it. He also bolts it to a 2F engine he has on a stand and then test runs it and adjusts it.

What was amazing, I bolted that carb on out of the box from Jim C and once the float bowl filled the motor started and idled & ran perfectly! I have never had to touch an adjustment screw on it. I can also tell you that it has never hiccupped even once. Last weekend on the 40 run there were a number of rigs that had vapor locking/loading up issues and mine didn't.

As far as the performance enhancements you definitely feel the secondaries opening up sooner and solidly versus the stock setup. The only downside is Mark and Jim charge about $350 for the service and it usually takes about 6 weeks to get your carb back from them.
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  #16  
Old 08-04-2010, 12:43 PM
Red72FJ40 Red72FJ40 is offline
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Thanks for the detail, Randy. I'm going to try out Ricardos suggestion and do a bit more trouble shooting and then decide. Sound like a good way to go on the re-build/upgrade by those guys.
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Last edited by Red72FJ40; 01-21-2011 at 11:13 AM.
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  #17  
Old 08-04-2010, 12:46 PM
Red72FJ40 Red72FJ40 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RicardoJM View Post
Glad to hear the choke system is working. Also check the Accelerator Pump. With the air cleaner off, you should be able to move the accelerator pump lever up and down. As you do this, there should be a jet of fuel being sprayed down the barrel with the choke - "primary barrel".

The spray will should come out of the brass nozel that is visible (at the 1:00 position) in this photo of the venturi being removed from the primary barrel.
Ricardo, sorry, but where would the accelerator pump "lever" be?
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Last edited by Red72FJ40; 01-21-2011 at 11:14 AM.
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  #18  
Old 08-04-2010, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red72FJ40 View Post
Ricardo, sorry, but where would the accelerator pump "lever" be?
In this picture the wrench is on the bolt that accelerator pump lever pivots on.



When you pump the gas pedal (or manually move the lever up and down), this lever moves the accelerator pump (arm in the rubber accordion boot) up and down. The accelerator pump is what makes the squirt happen.
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  #19  
Old 08-04-2010, 02:47 PM
Red72FJ40 Red72FJ40 is offline
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Looks familiar, thanks. I'll check it out.
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Last edited by Red72FJ40; 01-21-2011 at 11:14 AM.
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  #20  
Old 08-05-2010, 09:03 AM
Red72FJ40 Red72FJ40 is offline
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HI Ricardo,

I definitely think it is the accelerator pump. When I push down on the accelerator, I don't see the pump engaging or the gas squirting. I really have to push down hard on the lever itself to get the pump to work, and once it does I see the gas squirt and it starts right up. I think the linkage is OK, just think the pump is sticky. Do I need to replace the pump part or can I take it apart and clean it?

Thanks.
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Last edited by Red72FJ40; 01-21-2011 at 11:14 AM.
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