Rising Sun Member Forums  

Go Back   Rising Sun Member Forums > Toyota 4x4 > General Tech Forum

Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old 07-21-2010, 01:43 PM
Red72FJ40 Red72FJ40 is offline
Wincher
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Longmont
Posts: 63
Default What OEM Carb in a '72 1F FJ40

Does anyone know what OEM carb is in a 72 FJ40 with a 1F and where I can get a rebuild kit, or where locally I could get it re-built?

Thanks.
________
headshop

Last edited by Red72FJ40; 01-21-2011 at 11:13 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 07-21-2010, 02:02 PM
RicardoJM's Avatar
RicardoJM RicardoJM is offline
Rising Sun Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Centennial, CO
Posts: 2,301
Default

There are several years that could work in an F engine. I've run a November 69 and Sep 72 Aisin carb on my F engine. I believe that even the 2F carbs could be made to work, but there are more systems on these carbs and I don't know the details on how to "bring them down" to F engine use.

Rebuild kits are available at NAPA, but there are differences in kits. I would recommend getting a Keyster kit that is specific to the carb. Cruiseroutfitters sells them.

There are a few in the club that have rebuilt carbs and I'd be willing to give you a hand. I rebuilt my first carb last fall and rebuilt a 22R carb earlier this year.

Do you already have a carb?
__________________
Ricardo Maestas - Bio Page
KD0CAW
1999 LX 470, 1971 FJ-40
TLCA #18941
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 07-21-2010, 02:16 PM
RicardoJM's Avatar
RicardoJM RicardoJM is offline
Rising Sun Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Centennial, CO
Posts: 2,301
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red72FJ40 View Post
Does anyone know what OEM carb is in a 72 FJ40 with a 1F
The Aisin carbs have a three/four digit code stamped on the air horn that indicates when the carburetor was built; digit 1 is the year, digit 2 is the month and digits 3/4 are the day of the month.

So, I am pretty certain that the OEM carb that was in a 1972 would have a 1 (1971) or 2 (1972) first digit on the code.

However, keep in mind that with trucks this old, it is very rare that they have survived in tact and with the same engine, carb, steering wheel, seats, etc.. that they left the factor with.
__________________
Ricardo Maestas - Bio Page
KD0CAW
1999 LX 470, 1971 FJ-40
TLCA #18941
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 08-03-2010, 08:57 AM
Red72FJ40 Red72FJ40 is offline
Wincher
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Longmont
Posts: 63
Default

Hi Ricardo, been tied up so I have not had a chance to look at it, but I did last night.

There is a logo on it that I thought said Atson (sp) but could have been Aisin? Not sure as it is hard to read. Also, on the top of the carb there is an ISO (or 180) cast into the aluminum and below that is stamped 2D2.

Does any of this make sense or should I be looking in a differnet area. FJ Serial number indicates the truck was made in 4/72.

Thanks for any insight.
________
volcano vaporizers

Last edited by Red72FJ40; 01-21-2011 at 11:13 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 08-03-2010, 09:13 AM
RicardoJM's Avatar
RicardoJM RicardoJM is offline
Rising Sun Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Centennial, CO
Posts: 2,301
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red72FJ40 View Post
Hi Ricardo, been tied up so I have not had a chance to look at it, but I did last night.

There is a logo on it that I thought said Atson (sp) but could have been Aisin? Not sure as it is hard to read. Also, on the top of the carb there is an ISO (or 180) cast into the aluminum and below that is stamped 2D2.

Does any of this make sense or should I be looking in a differnet area. FJ Serial number indicates the truck was made in 4/72.

Thanks for any insight.
From the description, it sounds like this is the original carb. The 2D2 would indicate the carb was build on April 2, 1972 consistent with the truck's serial number.
__________________
Ricardo Maestas - Bio Page
KD0CAW
1999 LX 470, 1971 FJ-40
TLCA #18941
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 08-03-2010, 02:55 PM
Red72FJ40 Red72FJ40 is offline
Wincher
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Longmont
Posts: 63
Default

Thanks, Ricardo.

Would I just go down to NAPA then and ask for an OEM carb rebuild kit for that year FJ40? Would anyone recommend a different aftermarket carb or should I stick with the OEM?

Thanks!
________
toyota corolla

Last edited by Red72FJ40; 01-21-2011 at 11:13 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 08-03-2010, 04:19 PM
RicardoJM's Avatar
RicardoJM RicardoJM is offline
Rising Sun Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Centennial, CO
Posts: 2,301
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red72FJ40 View Post
Would I just go down to NAPA then and ask for an OEM carb rebuild kit for that year FJ40?
You could go to NAPA, but I would recommend calling Kurt at Cruiseroutfitters to get a Keyser kit. The Keyster kits are more comprehensive in their content that what is available from NAPA.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Red72FJ40 View Post
Would anyone recommend a different aftermarket carb or should I stick with the OEM?
My recommendation would be to stick with the OEM carb. If you'd like a hand with rebuilding it, I'll be willing to work with you.

If you want more of a turnkey approach, you could send your carb out to Mark A. or Jim C. for a full rebuild. Both of these guys really know the stock carbs and can get them in tip/top shape. Alternatively, you can purchase one of the TrollHole carbs.

Switching to an after market (Weber) will be more $$$ than sending it out for a rebuild or the TrollHole carb.

I'm sure others will chime in with their perspective.
__________________
Ricardo Maestas - Bio Page
KD0CAW
1999 LX 470, 1971 FJ-40
TLCA #18941
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 08-04-2010, 09:35 AM
Red72FJ40 Red72FJ40 is offline
Wincher
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Longmont
Posts: 63
Default

Thanks so much, Ricardo, for your offer and information. I really know zero about carbs so I would not be of much help re-building it so maybe the turnkey approach would be better.

Can I ask your opinion on one more thing? The current carb seems to work fine once the truck is warmed up. No issue at all with it. It won't start though (w/o starter fluid) and it stutters on acceleration when it is cold. I'm thinking it is carb related but is there anything else I should be looking at?

Thanks again for your time and help.

Pete
________
FZ750

Last edited by Red72FJ40; 01-21-2011 at 11:13 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 08-04-2010, 09:36 AM
wesintl's Avatar
wesintl wesintl is offline
Hard Core 4+
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: in da house
Posts: 7,533
Send a message via AIM to wesintl
Default

vacuum leak?
__________________
See you on the trail
WREK
Couple o' FJ40's, BJ70, UZJ100, TDI 66FJ40,82FJ60,97FZJ80
TLCA#4180
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 08-04-2010, 09:50 AM
RicardoJM's Avatar
RicardoJM RicardoJM is offline
Rising Sun Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Centennial, CO
Posts: 2,301
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red72FJ40 View Post
Thanks so much, Ricardo, for your offer and information. I really know zero about carbs so I would not be of much help re-building it so maybe the turnkey approach would be better.

Can I ask your opinion on one more thing? The current carb seems to work fine once the truck is warmed up. No issue at all with it. It won't start though (w/o starter fluid) and it stutters on acceleration when it is cold. I'm thinking it is carb related but is there anything else I should be looking at?

Thanks again for your time and help.

Pete
Quote:
Originally Posted by wesintl View Post
vacuum leak?
It might be the choke mechanism. You should have a choke knob on the dash. When you pull it out, it closes a plate over the primary barrel. As the truck warms up, you push the knob back in. The symptoms are consistent with what would be expected if the choke is not used or not working.

To inspect the choke, remove the air cleaner from the top of the carb. You will see there are two barrels in the center of the carb and one of them has a plate. Get inside the truck and pull the choke knob. Get outside the truck and look at the top of the carb again - you should see the plate has moved to cover the barrel. Get inside the truck again and push the choke knob in - this time when you look at the carb you should see the plate has moved and the barrel is open.

When a truck sits a long time (don't know if this is your situation) the cable will stick and not close the plate. It is also possible that the choke cable is missing or not connected to the carb linkage.

Wes is also correct about a vacuum leak being a potential problem, but I would first look at the choke. Post up with what you find.
__________________
Ricardo Maestas - Bio Page
KD0CAW
1999 LX 470, 1971 FJ-40
TLCA #18941
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:48 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.