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  #31  
Old 08-23-2010, 04:35 PM
frontrange frontrange is offline
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Originally Posted by PabloCruise View Post
No, I did not know this.

Thank you.

I would still be interested in reading a build about your 3FE when you are finished.

Where are you located?
Just south of Monument CO.

I'll take some pics when it's all back together, but it's a 2FE, not a 3FE, in other words a 2F with a hydraulic roller cam and the 3FE induction + aftermarket ECM.
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  #32  
Old 08-24-2010, 12:19 PM
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Just south of Monument CO.

I'll take some pics when it's all back together, but it's a 2FE, not a 3FE, in other words a 2F with a hydraulic roller cam and the 3FE induction + aftermarket ECM.
Got it. I would love to learn more about your build when you have time to post.

Esp. interested in how you produced a hydraulic cam, and got oil pressure to the lifters for this build!
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  #33  
Old 08-24-2010, 01:02 PM
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I digitized a SBC cam lobe profile to apply it to the 2F centerline timing taken off of a stock 2F cam. I will cut it on my 4 axis CNC mill, chuck the roughed cam between centers in the lathe and grind it with my toolpost grinder acting as a cam follower by using an air cylinder in place of the lathe's crosslide acme screw.

To get oil to SBC lifters I plan on making an oil manifold that will sit behind the lifter galley plate.
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  #34  
Old 08-31-2010, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by powderpig View Post
O 2 sensors tell the computer how lean or rich the exhaust stream is. So it effects too lean or too rich or just right(simple version). So if the O2 sensors are not working, it can lead to a lean condition which leads to NOX. If you have a Factory service manual and a old style VOM(swing meter style), you can check them out per the manual. If not and you do not have any idea of how many miles(but feel they could be a bunch) I would just replace them, it could also lead to better fuel ecomany.
Looking at your number you gave, it looks like you are running on the lean side of the fuel flow.
So If we look at those numbers, you need to make it run richer. So yes it could be injectors, but it could be the O2 sensors as well.
With similar number, I have seen good results with the O2 sensors. But testing them first before replacing is a wise choice.

But as the other suggest, the injectors or EGR could also effect NOX.
I thought I found the problem when finding my EGR diaphragm was leaking but it failed again with a new one. I think I'll just jump to 02 sensors as you suggested Robbie.

Thanks again.
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  #35  
Old 09-01-2010, 04:06 PM
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Not the O2 sensors either - failed the 5th time today. It doesn't make sense to me but a guy on 'Mud said his NOx dropped to acceptable levels with a new t-stat so I threw one of those in for the heck of it. I'll see what the Air Care tech has to say Friday. Injectors?

I have to say the trucks running fine these days despite high NOx.
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  #36  
Old 09-01-2010, 04:27 PM
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What is your timing set to?
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  #37  
Old 09-01-2010, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by frontrange View Post
Here's a possibility for you if you want to test the injectors. I while back I got annoyed with the lack of a standard pressure test port on the Toyota fuel rail, so I made a few of these:



Haven't tried one out yet, but it's simple enough it should work. It replaces the OEM banjo bolt (on the right) for the hard line that goes to the cold start valve with a new one that has the standard Chevy test fitting. With this I can use my Kent-Moore to do an injector balance test without pulling the rail and injectors out.

So if you want to come by my shop it shouldn't take more than 15 minutes to install one of these and test the injectors. If they test OK and the EGR isn't leaking, I'd say go ahead and drop the cabbage on new O2 sensors.
Has anyone seen an OEM banjo bolt replacement that is threaded in the top for a small fuel gauge? I think there is room under the hood to run a fuel pressure gauge off the banjo bolt for the cold start injector. That way you could just open the hood and check fuel pressure right there.

Kind of like this bolt for Honda banjo bolts at the fuel filter:



Who knows, maybe this fits? Is the 3FE banjo bolt a 12mmx1.25? You would need a fuel pressure gauge w/ 1/8" NPT thread.
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  #38  
Old 09-01-2010, 04:49 PM
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Shoot a PM to RicardoJM on this site. There is an auto shop he uses in Englewood that works on old cruisers. They have their own emission testing gear so they can adjust it until it will pass, then they give it to you so you can go direct to the state testing station.

I've also heard (no first hand experience) that if you run a 50-50 mix of E85 and prem gas it will help you pass.
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  #39  
Old 09-01-2010, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PabloCruise View Post
What is your timing set to?
Factory specs, I've been told the Air Care tech like everything set to factory specs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Air Randy View Post
Shoot a PM to RicardoJM on this site. There is an auto shop he uses in Englewood that works on old cruisers. They have their own emission testing gear so they can adjust it until it will pass, then they give it to you so you can go direct to the state testing station.

I've also heard (no first hand experience) that if you run a 50-50 mix of E85 and prem gas it will help you pass.
I'll guess it's the shop on Evans, I see lots of cruisers there. I really can't afford to pay someone to troubleshoot this right now. Yes, that may have been the best approach on day 1 but I had no idea I was heading down the path I'm on.

There are numerous variations of the E85 solution including drug store isopropyl, Heet, etc. I'm hoping to get to the bottom rather than sidestep the actual problem. I figure I'll end up with a damned great running 3FE when I'm done if that ever happens.

I'll swap you my truck for the Gecko Randy!
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  #40  
Old 09-01-2010, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Air Randy View Post
Shoot a PM to RicardoJM on this site. There is an auto shop he uses in Englewood that works on old cruisers. They have their own emission testing gear so they can adjust it until it will pass, then they give it to you so you can go direct to the state testing station.
The shop is:
Colorado Car Clinic
5311 S Broadway, Littleton, CO.
Phone: 303-730-0055
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