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Old 08-18-2010, 12:46 PM
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Default Aussie Rear Locker

So the stock FJ60 is getting some cheap upgrades. I ordered an aussie rear and picked up a new diff gasket. Need some 90 wt(no backwoods goop) and what other supplies? Thanks.
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Old 08-18-2010, 12:48 PM
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So the stock FJ60 is getting some cheap upgrades. I ordered an aussie rear and picked up a new diff gasket. Need some 90 wt(no backwoods goop) and what other supplies? Thanks.
Lots of shop towels and hand cleaner.

Sounds like you'll be ready to roll.
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Old 08-18-2010, 01:14 PM
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Locker install in the rear is pretty straight forward. If you are putting it up front, then you will need more stuff. In addition to the 90wt; pick up a new diff gasket and some rtv.

As you install the locker you will need a micrometer to measure the gap to confirm it is in spec. If the gap is not in spec., you will need to change the thrust washers. With the good condition your rig was in when you got it (and it is still in good condition), I would expect that your measurements will be just fine. I installed my locker and gave Justin a hand with his and would be happy to lend a hand with yours.
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Old 08-18-2010, 01:27 PM
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Like Ricardo said, you'll need to measure the clearance the locker has between the axles and the center block. I played with running that tolerance looser than specified (because I didn't want to buy new thicker washers) and found that while the locker worked fine it was somewhat erratic in how it locked. You won't know what the gap is till you get it mocked up. Anyways, Running it near the lower end of the specified clearance or gap produced a much more tame action from the locker.
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Old 08-18-2010, 10:04 PM
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I have a 1" mic but it looks like a feeler gage or dial caliper is what you use. I have rtv and MP grease,jack stands,floor jack,standard tools but any special ones? Probably will not get the locker til next week. I assume the thrust washers are sold in diff thicknesses although I bet mine will not be worn enough to need changed,only 117k mi. Ricardo,thanks for the offer and I will see if I can do an install in my garage quickly enough to not leave something else outside for days! http://forum.ih8mud.com/80seriestech...r-install.html
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Old 08-18-2010, 10:20 PM
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You might need a new pinion flange and seal, as I did when Rudy did mine. I hope you got a chance to pick up the hand out at the Rally on how to do this install. Further Rudy has a PowerPoint that outlines the process as well. More information is better than less. You may want to replace the U-joint while you have it disconnected, as well as rebuild the rear axle.
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Old 08-19-2010, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
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I have a 1" mic but it looks like a feeler gage or dial caliper is what you use. I have rtv and MP grease,jack stands,floor jack,standard tools but any special ones?
I'm not sure I understand that first sentence. I used a HF electronic caliper, nothing fancy required. Really, there are no other special tools needed.
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Old 08-19-2010, 09:23 AM
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a 1" mic will work for checking shim thickness and some feeler gages are all you need to check the gap.

Ricardo, first one is a micrometer and the next is a dial caliper.

Like Ricardo says, you really don't need any special tools... it's pull the rear cover off, slide the cross shaft and block out of the diff, pull out all of the spider gears and c clips... slide axles out a bit (which you can do without even taking drums off if the drums are loose), and install the new locker with the shims you have. Measure gap with feeler gages and if it is too big or small, take it apart measure the shims with the mic so you know where you're at and reshim as needed.
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Old 08-19-2010, 10:05 AM
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Dooh, I didn't realized there was a difference, I've been calling both micrometers. That explains a few of the puzzled looks I've gotten from Randy over the last couple of years.
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Old 08-19-2010, 11:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Schlegs View Post
You might need a new pinion flange and seal, as I did when Rudy did mine. I hope you got a chance to pick up the hand out at the Rally on how to do this install. Further Rudy has a PowerPoint that outlines the process as well. More information is better than less. You may want to replace the U-joint while you have it disconnected, as well as rebuild the rear axle.
He's installing a lunchbox locker so he doesn't have to disassemble the ring and pinion like Rudy did when he installed your ARB.
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