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  #11  
Old 09-26-2010, 10:43 PM
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Great thread. Answered many questions I had about a future project. Great tip on finding TDC Ricardo, and I sure am glad to learn that a $275 purchase from MAF that is supposed to fit my Landcruiser indeed does!
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  #12  
Old 10-03-2010, 02:54 PM
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So, bringing this thread back up, I tried the pull & stab technique last weekend (using the dizz out of my other 40) and still can't get the truck started. So I am going to try & find TDC and see if the dizzy is just way off or what.

But I dont see how I could put a wrench on the crank bolt. Do I need to remove the radiator & all of that to do this? Also, it looks like one of those odd, "turn only in one direction" screw heads, rather than a standard bolt or nut. Am I looking at the wrong place, or is there some special tool/trick needed to turn this? As always, any other tips would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Abe
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  #13  
Old 10-03-2010, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gr8fulabe View Post
So, bringing this thread back up, I tried the pull & stab technique last weekend (using the dizz out of my other 40) and still can't get the truck started. So I am going to try & find TDC and see if the dizzy is just way off or what.

But I dont see how I could put a wrench on the crank bolt. Do I need to remove the radiator & all of that to do this? Also, it looks like one of those odd, "turn only in one direction" screw heads, rather than a standard bolt or nut. Am I looking at the wrong place, or is there some special tool/trick needed to turn this? As always, any other tips would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Abe
Put the truck in 4th gear and move it forward or back to get the engine rotated easily to where you want. Be sure to put it back into neutral before starting it!
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  #14  
Old 10-03-2010, 04:15 PM
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So, I put my finger over the first plug hole to feel compression & had my wife bump the starter to get it close to TDC. It was actually just a bit past the bb, but when I pulled the cap the rotor was pointed towards the number one cylinder spot. So I feel like it should is in the correct area & should start, but will only sort of run while the ignition still turned to keep the starter moving. But it fails immediately after that.
Any ideas if there could be something else wrong here?
Thanks,
abe
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  #15  
Old 10-03-2010, 04:49 PM
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From your description, it sounds like you are not 180 degrees off and you are correct, i.e. you feel the pressure on cylinder 1 just before as the bb/TDC line come into view and the rotor is pointing at the number one slot on the distributor cap.

When you indicate it "will sort of run while the ignition still turned to keep the starter moving" - does it..
  • Actually start running and idle then die when you let the key return to the run position
  • Seem like it is just on the very edge of starting but not enough umph

If it is the latter, it could be that you need to advance the timing (rotate the distributor counter clockwise) just a bit. Just a couple of degrees, no more than 5.

It could also be the electrical is not hooked up correctly and you are not getting spark. I don't suspect this is the issue as you have not indicated that it has been altered/changed at all. Have you checked for spark at the end of a spark plug wire?
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  #16  
Old 10-03-2010, 05:00 PM
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I should still have spark, but I havent checked lately (will do so in a minute though to confirm). The truck ran & idled well but would lose power on acceleration or up a hill & in those same situations it would backfire a lot. So I figured that it wasn't advancing the timing properly & was trying to clean the insides of the old dizzy with the spray cleaner. While doing so, some little parts came out & a guy on mud that knows a lot about dizzy's told me they were the parts that hold the advance mechanism in place, and they couldn't be replaced, so I needed a new dizzy. Sure enough, I was never able to get it to start after that, so that is where this whole thing with swapping the dizzy came from...
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