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  #21  
Old 11-02-2010, 06:09 PM
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AxleIke AxleIke is offline
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You didn't change anything other than the diff, correct? You pulled your old diff, and put in the new, correct?

If that is the case, then its the locker. And the diff must have some play in it, if you didn't change drive line angles.

As for the offset between diff and TC, this is only a problem if the angles are exactly opposite. In your case, if the tcase is straight, and the diff is straight, then you will not have vibes due to the offset. Assuming you rotated the rear axle to compensate for the longer drivetrain, and new angles, you shouldn't have any issues there, except, as Randy said, premature wear.

You can check the angles on the angle finder, and just make sure both tcase and axle are opposite.

I am also assuming that you are running in only 2wd, or, pulled the front diff too.
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  #22  
Old 11-02-2010, 07:20 PM
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or at least the front driveshaft
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  #23  
Old 11-02-2010, 07:25 PM
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yea its not axle wrap with new springs and spring under. i didnt know that b4.. id deffentlly say torque steer more than alignment, like the others have sugusted, odds are your frame is twisting. id also pop your head under and check for cracks in the frame aswell as structure rust. partiurally around the leaf spring brackets. you could also have a friend get in the truck and brake torque it while you look at the suspention and all mounts for flex. just hold the brake and snap the gas for a second then let off. if its suspention related youll see it. if its alignment related the computer will see it..
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  #24  
Old 11-02-2010, 09:25 PM
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Well, I just put on the 3* shims and it didn't fix it at all. And yes, it is in 2wd while doing this. I also don't see any cracks or anything abnormal around the frame where the springs would be connected to it, and I don't really have rust on my frame to speak of.

Can anyone suggest a decent shop that could figure this out for me? I'm at a loss right now and I would hate to just throw money and parts at it without knowing the cause.

Ike, you are correct, I didn't do anything other than throw in a used diff and locker. I did notice the pull slightly with the old diff, but now that the locker is there it is 10x as bad.

My rear is exactly opposite the tcase angle. It is 1* up and the tcase is 1* down.

Last edited by satchel; 11-02-2010 at 10:26 PM.
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  #25  
Old 11-02-2010, 09:37 PM
njtacoma njtacoma is offline
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Default Crazy idea...

Have you thought about disconnecting the rear driveshaft, engaging the front hubs and gently (gently) accelerating to see if it changes things in anyway?

It sure sounds like torque steer, but this would help eliminate or point to the rear end as the source of your problems.

-Neil
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  #26  
Old 11-02-2010, 09:42 PM
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I thought about that, but the reason I haven't done it is because it wasn't nearly this bad before the diff and locker install.

I guess I could try that and see.
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  #27  
Old 11-02-2010, 10:16 PM
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Ok, just tried your suggestion of running the truck in front wheel drive mode, meaning 4wd with the rear drive shaft disconnected. I actually took it on the highway as well. I get reverse pull from what I was getting. The difference is that now, the truck pulls to the left some when coasting, about the 11 o clock position on the steering wheel, and when I accelerate it wants to go to the right about 5-10 degrees. Not nearly as bad as the pull is with the rear drive shaft connected in rear wheel drive mode, but worse than it was before I installed the locker in the back.

to sum up, it used to pull slightly to the left upon acceleration and then come to about even when coasting with my old diff and no aussie locker. New diff and locker and it starts quickly to the right and then hard to the left where my steering wheel is at the 3 o clock position to correct it while accelerating, and comes back to about even when coasting. Front wheel drive only pulls about 10 degrees to the left when coasting and pulls to the right about 10 degrees when accelerating.

Also, there were no vibrations at all.

If anyone has ideas I'd love to hear them. I will try the torque braking idea when I can get someone to help me with that to see if something is flexing that shouldn't be.

Last edited by satchel; 11-02-2010 at 10:39 PM.
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  #28  
Old 11-02-2010, 10:38 PM
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TIMZTOY TIMZTOY is offline
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well then the vibration is your driveshaft.. if you have a carrarer bearing, odds are thats it..
my roomate who is also a tech, says its tourque steer, and the only way to fix it propelly is to do a 4link, becasue this is the same thing that happens to drag cars.. what they have to do is box the frame ! (start with first) (could also install a x member)
the proper way to fix it is to install a 4link and preload the driver rear suspention, because the toruque from the motor is causing the suspention/frame to flex, and squating the left rear and lifting the right rear. causing the truck to steer left..
a cheaper fix that might not fix anything but its eaiser and cheaper that the above is to install new shocks with more support.. id personally start with the shocks, then start boxing in the frame starting from the center, and working rearwords.. id also cut holes in the frame and sleeve those holes with tube.. to loose weight and add strength... just start boxing like 1-2' sections at a time. then drive it again.. and see if its still there.. granted theses are not cheap fix's but i dont think your going to be able to fix it cheaplly..
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  #29  
Old 11-02-2010, 10:42 PM
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Not sure I follow. Why do you think it is the rear driveshaft and not the rear diff?

I disconnected the entire rear and only ran the front end and there was no vibration. The rear diff could still be vibrating at the pinion flange and I wouldn't know it because the driveshaft isn't hooked up to transfer that vibration to the tcase, right? I really can't see it being the driveshaft because I was using it before without any issues.
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  #30  
Old 11-02-2010, 10:51 PM
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dude you're figuring it out! and it makes perfect sense.. think about your driveshaft rotation, they're the same, right? but the pinions are on different sides meaning the torque under load is going to be opposite front or rear, that's why the torque steer is reversed! so if you now put it in 4WD they will counter each other out somewhat.. and if you were still open in back it'd likely go away almost completely in 4WD.


My solution? some kind of adjustable lift block, or pin relocation device. Something that will allow you loosen up one side of the rear axle and dial in its front-back location. I'm curious what the distance numbers are from one side to the other (what 60wag referred to as thrust angle), from your posts on the first page I was thinking the distance is slightly longer on the driver's side (hub to hub), compared to the passenger side, so my next thought is how can you increase the wheelbase on the passenger side....
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