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  #11  
Old 11-13-2010, 10:15 AM
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Really sorry about this Ricardo!! I know how hard you have worked on this motor.. Good luck with the replacement!!

Brian
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  #12  
Old 11-13-2010, 02:25 PM
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Rzeppa Rzeppa is offline
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I've also got a spare F builder you are welcome to for free Ricardo. Was running when pulled, just needed machining and freshening - you are familiar with the story from 2006 - I pulled it when it started getting rod knock on the way to Moab. Vintage is January of 1971.
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  #13  
Old 11-13-2010, 05:52 PM
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It is a bummer, and it is also another great learning experience. I appreciate all the offers of blocks and stuff. I've got the block from the F.5 that was in the Mule. I tore it down today and sure enough the bearing on #3 had spun again; not that it matters as the crankshaft will not be used. The last photo didn't come out too good, but it is pretty cool that it all fit into the LX470. It was a busy day in Randy's shop; he was working on an ARB for the Mule, Satchel stopped by to look at his steering and I tore down my first engine.







Now I have to decide if I want to
  1. Rebuild the bottom end, pretty easy as I have a new camshaft and bearings.
  2. Move the balanced assembly that is in my truck now, bit more complex as I would have to pull and tear down the engine so the machine shop can prep the new block.

Option 1 will get the rig back up and running in less time. Option 2 might save a few bucks but could take a bit longer to work through. Either way, I am very appreciative to the club and especially Randy. Fact is I feel really prepared to tackle this because of all the experience that I have been able to pick up working on my truck and the jobs I've been able to lend him a hand on.
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Last edited by RicardoJM; 11-13-2010 at 07:51 PM.
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  #14  
Old 11-13-2010, 10:43 PM
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Sounds like you had a good day wrenchin' all things considered.
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  #15  
Old 11-14-2010, 07:19 AM
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I'd put the balanced assembly in the new block. Every time you wind it up to 3500 rpm, you'll know it was worth it rather than wishing you had made the effort.
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  #16  
Old 11-15-2010, 07:50 PM
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X2, you have the stuff so you might as well use it. Do you need to have the 40 running for some reason sooner than later?
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keys = Man that is a whole story


TLCA #6136
Going under the knife again !

85 4runner Marlin Ultimate 5" lift 40" MTR's Soft top and doors Towed to Moab by the Big Blue Whale, 07.5 Dodge Mega Cab Laramie 4" lift covered and chiped No more slow lane for me
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  #17  
Old 11-15-2010, 08:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockRunner View Post
X2, you have the stuff so you might as well use it. Do you need to have the 40 running for some reason sooner than later?
It's my little brother's DD, his school parking permit is on the windshield.
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  #18  
Old 11-16-2010, 09:31 AM
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I am going to swap over the balanced rotating assembly from the block in my engine. Fact is aside from the cracked block, the engine runs real strong. While I haven't updated my cracked distributor shaft thread, Randy and I resolved that issue. Heading south on I-25, the engine gets the truck up to 80 mph heading up Surrey Ridge. There is still the possibility that the new block may not work with my stuff, but I won't know until the machine shop gets a chance to inspect it all. HutHut can drive the Bronco while the FJ40 is down, but hopefully it won't be down too long.

I took the truck out to the shop Sunday and yesterday evening prepped it for pulling the engine/trany/t-case out.

I pulled out my hand written notes from this summer and found them to be very usefull. I have not memorized all the bolt/nut sizes and it saved me a bunch of time to be able to see what was needed for each step. It was also a nice that I had a checklist to follow.



I started working at about 4:00 and by 8:30 everything (but the engine mount bolts) is out of the way and ready to pull. This is what it all looked like when I started work.



And here is what it looked like when I knocked off for the evening.



Passenger side


Drivers side


Here is a better photo of the drivers side of the block and the stains from the cracked block.



The tech tip from this exercise - use a 5 gallon bucket and improvised "funnel" (cut up plastic water bottle) to capture the coolant. This system focused the draining coolant and eliminated the typical mess that occurs from the coolant hitting the tie rods and splashing beyond the container.
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Last edited by RicardoJM; 11-21-2010 at 04:58 PM.
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  #19  
Old 11-16-2010, 09:55 AM
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Isn't it amazing how much better and faster you are at something the 2nd time you do it? Not that you wanted to do this a second time.....
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  #20  
Old 11-16-2010, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacket View Post
Isn't it amazing how much better and faster you are at something the 2nd time you do it? Not that you wanted to do this a second time.....
Better yes, faster - I suppose so, but still not as fast as someone who does this sort of thing for a living. I gave Randy a hand with Mule engine swap, so this was the 3rd time since this summer.
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