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  #21  
Old 11-16-2010, 04:04 PM
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Not that you wanted to do this a second time.....
I'm not so sure about that. Ricardo was thrilled he got to disassemble the Mule motor down to the bare block, and now he's all excited about getting everything back from the machine shop and re-assembling it.

He has his notebook all laid out and fresh batteries in his camera, so I'm sure the entire process will be well documented
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  #22  
Old 11-17-2010, 08:18 AM
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A very big shout out to Nattybummpo for giving me a hand with pulling the engine/tranny/t-case and getting the engine on the stand. An extra set of hands and eyes really makes the work safer and smoother. Most of you already know Sascha, but for those that don't - here he is enjoying a well deserved root-beer at the end of the wrenching.



Once again, my engine bay is empty. Last time it was like this I had intentions of cleaning it up. Well, I didn't get around to doing that.



The evenings work went smoothly. We removed the "ears" of the engine mounts once the load was on the hoist. This small step only takes a few minutes but really helps with any clearance issues when pulling everything out.

The 5 gallon bucket continued to work well for capturing the coolant from the block. Once we had the engine on the stand, we rotated it, removed the drain plug, stabbed the muck with a screw driver and caught every drop in the bucket. Now, I need to figure out how to capture the cup or two that always falls out the water pump when the engine is pulled. It isn't much and paper towel soaks up most of it - but it would be nice to not have to clean any up from the floor.

Next step will be to tear down my engine so that the pistons, connecting rods, crank shaft camshaft and "new" block can be taking to the machine shop.

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  #23  
Old 11-17-2010, 05:59 PM
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Once again, my engine bay is empty. Last time it was like this I had intentions of cleaning it up. Well, I didn't get around to doing that.
Might as well get it done this time around

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Originally Posted by RicardoJM View Post
Now, I need to figure out how to capture the cup or two that always falls out the water pump when the engine is pulled. It isn't much and paper towel soaks up most of it - but it would be nice to not have to clean any up from the floor.
Doggy potty training pads...no joke. Get the biggest ones you can find an just set one or two under the area and they will soak up that coolant no problem and no mess - I use them when I change the oil in the LX and the 80 because no matter what I've tried, I still can't get the oil filter out without it dripping oil all over. One pad, strategically positioned, catches all of the oil before it makes a mell of a hess
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  #24  
Old 11-19-2010, 08:46 AM
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The lower end parts (block, pistons, crankshaft, camshaft, bearing caps and bolts) were dropped off at the machine shop this morning. They will be hot tanked and then inspected to confirm the block can be machined to work with the balanced rotating assembly. Along with the machine work, new bearings, rings, gaskets and freeze plugswill sourced by the machine shop. The head, timing gears and oil pump are in very good condition and will be reused.

The tear down of the cracked block engine went very smoothly. Sascha joined me and Randy got back from his business trip as we were getting ready to pull the pistons. The tear down work is something that an individual can do but it is nice to have some company to shoot the breeze with and help with the "heavier" parts; head and crank shaft.

The tear down of an F.5/2F engine is a fairly straight forward process. A 2F Factory Service Manual is a very good reference to have available. A single person can tear down the engine, but an extra hand is nice for removing the head, pistons and crankshaft.

The basic steps involve;
  • Remove the "TOP"
  • Remove the "FRONT"
  • Remove the "BOTTOM"
  • Remove the "ROTATING ASSEMBLY"

The engine should be mounted to an engine stand. These engines are long and heavy, while a 750lb stand will work in a pinch, if you can - use a larger, more stable stand. A four wheel engine stand make everything more stable.

There are going to be a bunch of bolts, nuts and washers that will be removed. Labeling and bagging them will keep things together nicely. Once you have done a few of these, you will likely just put all of them in a cofee can - but as I am stil somewhat new to this labled bags is the way I roll.



Remove the TOP
Remove the 4 nuts that hold the valve cover on the top of the block and remove the valve cover.

The rocker arm assembly needs to be removed. The nuts and bolts involved are 17mm, 14mm and 12mm in size. Deep impact sockets and an impact wrench make quick work of removing them.



With the nuts, bolts and lock washers removed, the rocker assembly can be lifted up and removed from the head.



Remove the 12 push rods. These lift right up. In my research, I have determined that many recommend keeping track of the order of each of these rods so they can be returned to their original holes.



Using a 19mm size deep impact socket, remove the head bolts. With the head bolts removed, the head can now be lifted up and removed from the block. Sometimes the head may be firmly affixed to the block, in these situations there is a slot that a screw driver/small pry bar can be inserted into to pry them appart. My head lifted straight off. The head is a big block of iron and weighs approximately 50lbs.

Remove the small bolts from the engine side cover and remove the engine side cover.

Rotate the engine so that the lifters slide out of the block. As with the push rods, the recommendation is to keep these in order so that they go back in the same holes. As each lifter was removed, I cleaned it up with brake cleaner and wrote its number on the bottom before putting them in the bag.



The top is now removed. I left my thermostat housing attached to my head. As the work that I am doing is all on the block, there was no need to remove the housing.




Remove the FRONT
Wow, I'm woefully lacking any photos of this part of the operation. The steps are:
  • Bend the locking tabs flat on the big-ole-nut
  • Remove the big-ole-nut
  • Remove the harmonic balancer/pulley
  • Remove the small bolts and large bolts form the Timing cover
  • Remove the timing cover
  • Remove the oil slinger (note: later 2Fs don't have an oil slinger)
  • Remove the flat screws and two bolts that hold on the timing plate
  • Remove the timing plate
  • Remove the two bolts that hold the camshaft, don't remove the camshaft yet.
As I will be re-installing the camshaft and crankshaft into the new block, I did not remove the timing gears.

Remove the BOTTOM
Ok, no pictures here either. The steps are:
  • Remove the water pump.
  • Rotate the engine so that the oil pan points to the sky.
  • Remove the oil pan bolts and remove the oil pan.
  • Remove the oil pump assembly from the engine.

Remove the ROTATING ASSEMBLY
I guess I really got into the work, cause photos here are also MIA. There are details here that are very important to keep track of and they all have to do with knowing how to put the pistions back in the exact place and orientation when they get re-installed.

In my engine, each piston assembly is stamped with the cylinder number in two places; on the connecting rod and connecting rod cap. These stamps were facing the distributor side of the engine. These stamps are very usefull as they tell me which cylinder a piston goes in, what the orientation of the piston should be and which caps go with each connecting rod. If you do not have these stamps (or similar markings) take appropriate steps to make sure you can put them back in the same cylinders and with the same orientation. If I did not have these marks, Randy has a stamp set that I would have used to put them in place.

Now is when I removed the camshaft. It is much easier to remove the camshaft with the oil pump out of the way.

The pistons are removed one at a time. Before removing pistons, you should inspect the top of the cylinders to determine if there is a ridge that needs to be reamed away. As my engine is realtively fresh, there was no ridge to remove.

To remove a pistion, you remove the nuts that hold the connecting rod to the connecting rod cap. You then tap (carefully) the threaded post of the connecting rod to start the piston on its way. Then remove the connecting rod cap and bearing. Next, continue to tap (carefully) the threaded post of the connecting rod until the piston is out of the engine block. A second set of hands is very handy to hold the connecting rod straight and not allow it to damage the cylinder walls. Then put the connecting rod cap back on the connecting rod and the nuts.

You will have easy access to two piston assemblies at a time. Temporarily re-install the big-ole-nut so that you can rotate the crankshaft to get easier access to the next pair of piston assemblies. A wooden handle works very well to prevent damaging the threaded post of the connecting rod. Tapping them out, does not required pounding on them.

With the pistons removed, you are now ready to remove the four main caps. Each of these is physically different, but at first glance the two in the middle look alot alike.

After removing the main caps, you can lift out the crankshaft. The crankshaft is also heavy. The use of nylon straps to cradle the crankshaft and a second set of hands makes this step easy.

Finally, make a pass around the block to remove some of the items that you see; spark plugs, oil pressure sender, coolant plug, etc. Do not remove the oil pump mounting block.
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Last edited by RicardoJM; 11-24-2010 at 12:37 PM.
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  #25  
Old 11-19-2010, 10:16 AM
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Super bummed to hear about your engine troubles, Ricardo.

But, I'm looking forward to your rebuild thread!

If you ever get a hankering to pull an FJ60 motor and rebuild it, let me know. I would love some help with that project someday.
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  #26  
Old 11-19-2010, 10:46 AM
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If you ever get a hankering to pull an FJ60 motor and rebuild it, let me know. I would love some help with that project someday.
I'm not sure I'll ever get the hankering - but I would definitely be up for lending a hand with your the engine rebuild. Aside from it being a bit like work, this project has really been one of the more exciting/fun ones that I have taken on. My experience (limited as it is) and knowledge all seem to be coming together on this gig. Sascha also has a back burner engine rebuild project and I'm looking forward to giving him a hand with that as well. Many in the club have rebuilt engines, this is my first and I have to admit it is really cool to see and better understand how it all works.
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  #27  
Old 11-19-2010, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by RicardoJM View Post
The lower end parts (block, pistons, crankshaft, camshaft, bearing caps and bolts) were dropped off at the machine shop this morning. They will be hot tanked and then inspected to confirm the block can be machined to work with the balanced rotating assembly
I am assuming the pistons won't be hot tanked?
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  #28  
Old 11-20-2010, 07:27 AM
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I am assuming the pistons won't be hot tanked?
I just re-read that sentence. The pistons are there so the machine shop can bore out the new block to match.
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  #29  
Old 11-20-2010, 09:41 AM
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Super bummed to hear about your engine troubles, Ricardo.

But, I'm looking forward to your rebuild thread!

If you ever get a hankering to pull an FJ60 motor and rebuild it, let me know. I would love some help with that project someday.
You are always welcome to bring it over here. We can rebuild it pretty quick. It's like "Field of Dreams", if you bring it, Ricardo will come Trust me, he can't stay away from something like this.
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  #30  
Old 12-05-2010, 08:28 PM
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You are always welcome to bring it over here. We can rebuild it pretty quick. It's like "Field of Dreams", if you bring it, Ricardo will come Trust me, he can't stay away from something like this.
That's a very generous offer. Thanks Randy. When the time comes, I'll take you (and Ricardo ) up on it.
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