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Old 11-16-2010, 08:23 AM
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Default Improper wheel torque cause warped rotors?

A guy at work suggested that having improper lug nut torque might cause warped rotors. This is in reference to my warped rotors on my 2000 Tundra, which I've come to understand is quite normal, due to what's commonly believed to be undersized brakes. However, his 2001, with the same brakes, does not have that problem and he pulls a 6,000 lb. trailer behind his every once in a while and daily drives his as I do. So would improper lug nut torque have an effect on 16" alloys and cause the rotors to warp?
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Old 11-16-2010, 09:06 AM
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Your rotors don't actuall "warp" i believe it is mechanically impossibly for the steel to warp from the low heat tempeture caused by the breaking. The "warp" term is actually brake pad deposit build up. But its easier to just say warped because ppl understand it Better. And the rotor sits on a machined surface so over tightening the nuts isn't going to to anything. Excpt stretch the studs and eventually snap them from repeated stretching.

To cure your continued "warp" issue I'd suggest performance pads and rotors (drilled and sloted). The drilled helps kwwp the rotor cool (better breaking) and the slots keep the pads clean by keeping deposit buildup from hapening. And even a portioning valve if that dosent help. That way you can send more pressure to the rear. You could also just bend your bar for tbe self adjusting valve.
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Old 11-16-2010, 09:21 AM
leiniesred leiniesred is offline
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I say myth. The Subaru SVX guys have experienced "warped" rotors for 15 years now. No matter how meticulous they are with lug nut torque, the friggin' undersize brakes pulse after about 20K miles.

Another example:
My father-in-law's full size Jeep has been missing a lug nut entirely for about 20 years now. No brake pedal pulse on that rig. I'd say "missing a stud" is pretty much as improperly torqued as possible. I bet the remaining lug nuts were all installed Jeep style with an impact wrench too.

The lug nuts are squeezing flat pieces together. There just isn't that much room to change stuff. Certainly less than driving around with wheel bearings so loose that it takes 2 pushes to get the rig to stop because the wobbly rotors have pushed the pistons back away from the rotor. There is no pulsing when you stop on that second push with rotors that can actually wobble as if the rotors were "warped" like a pringle's chip.

Here's a good one. Drove a girl's Honda once that had EXTREME brake shimmy. The rear drums were so out of round that they would move fluid and cause a pressure change back up to the front brakes .The front brakes would go on and off causing the steering wheel to shake like Luficer himself was trying to take the wheel. Replacing the front rotors? No change. Turn the rear drums? Problem solved.



Non-parallel rotor surfaces due to wear or uneven brake pad material deposition on the rotor is the culprit. Maybe you can get unequal deposition on a hot stop when you get uneven cooling because the pad is covering the hot rotor only in one place.
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Old 11-16-2010, 09:35 AM
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A little bit of background: the PO of the PO had both rotors turned, and then replaced. After I got the truck, the shimmy began. I've done the test of the rear drums by applying the parking brake while going about 30 mph and there is no shimmy whatsoever, so I'm positive it's the fronts. There is a TSB out for these early Tundras that replaces the calipers with the larger ones from the 2004-2006 Tundras. This provides more braking surface area for better braking and for cooler braking temperatures and is supposed to cure the problem. New OEM parts for the TSB are $1700! However, rather than replace the backing plate like the TSB says it's been found that with a tin snips the original backing plate can be trimmed to fit the newer calipers, and that saves a ton of money on parts. It's still expensive for rotors, calipers and pads though, so for now I'm dealing with it. But I'm thinking maybe I'll swing by a Brakes Plus or something and have the rotors turned and see how long that helps the situation...BTW my pad wear is very even all across the front of the truck.

And I didn't think this uneven lug nut torque causing warped rotors made sense either, but I was just checking to see if there was something I did not think of...
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Old 11-16-2010, 10:39 AM
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I had also been told in the past that I had "warped" rotors, and from time to time I'd have that dreaded pedal pulsation. But not always. And not now for years.

I did a lot of reading before installing Slee slotted & drilled rotors to my 80. That's when I also really started to understand brake pad bed-in, wear and deposit build up. I followed break-in procedures for the new discs and they work great.

uneven tire inflation also causes brake pulling.

Finally, DO NOT GO TO BRAKES PLUS!!! Unless you happen to have a specific franchise where you know the guys, those guys will likely leave you wore off and tell you you need a whole bunch of additional work. Use a club member, or I am sure many of us here can refer you to great independent shops that will give you a fair and honest deal. I have used the Toy Shop with great results for 10 years.
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Old 11-16-2010, 10:46 AM
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I'll probably go to Toy Car Care. They took care of my Tundra for years for the PO of the PO and do the oil changes for my wife's car now, along with a couple other things I've taken my truck in for. Sorry, should have left Brakes Plus out of it.
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1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
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Old 11-16-2010, 10:54 AM
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i have a 2000 tundra limited trd, i get the shimmy at about 40 to 50 mph usually going down hill. have had this truck for 5 years now so i just live with the shimmy [for now].i don't like brakes plus or midas way too expensive and seem to talk you into things you don't need. the main napa store on 70th ave around the interchange of boulder turn pike , i-25 turns roters, at least a few years back they did. i have read that the drilled\ slotted roters are nice but don't help with shimmy on the early tundras. i think the calipers need to be upgraded somehow.
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Old 11-16-2010, 11:17 AM
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You bring me loose rotors and I'll turn them for free !
Or bring the truck to Stevinson west and ask for Tim to do the work !
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Old 11-16-2010, 11:25 AM
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rotors are supposed to be turned on the truck...
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TLCA# 13684
Rising Sun Bio
1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
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Old 11-16-2010, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leiniesred View Post
causing the steering wheel to shake like Luficer himself was trying to take the wheel.


Yup got it in the Tundra every so often. Needs brakes within the next 10K so I will address it then.
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