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  #11  
Old 02-09-2011, 07:27 AM
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You are definitely in better shape by addressing the vacuum leaks. It was not clear if you checked the brake booster and vacuum shift for leaks - did you check these?

The engine dieing could be your idle cutoff solenoid is acting up. It is easy to test the solenoid. Get a jumper on the end of the wire and hook touch it to power. It should click. The solenoid gets power when the key is in the run position. The click you hear is the pin retracting and opening up the idle circuit for fuel to flow through. They don't often go bad, and might be the wire providing power has a kink or splice that is failing intermittently. We had that issue on the wiring in TheBoomBoom's rig. He had similar issues with idle and the engine dieing.
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Old 02-09-2011, 02:13 PM
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Where's the vacuum shift hoobie doobie located at? I'll check the brake booster and the idle solenoid when I get home.
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  #13  
Old 02-09-2011, 02:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rogue Leader View Post
Where's the vacuum shift hoobie doobie located at? I'll check the brake booster and the idle solenoid when I get home.
On your intake manifold there will be a vacuum hose that goes to a metal tube on the firewall near the top. That metal tube goes to a small box on the passenger side of the firewall. The other thing going into that box is the cable that runs to the 4D knob in the truck. The knob in the truck is a toggle for the small box. Knob in, the box directs vacuum to put t-case in 2WD; knob out the box directs vacuum to put t-case in 4WD. Of course coming out of that box are two tubes, one for each circuit.

To test apply vacuum pump to the hose where it connects to the manifold. It should hold the vacuum. Then pull the knob out and confirm that it still holds vacuum.
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Old 02-10-2011, 01:22 AM
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I've got a manual linkage for my xfer case. I've got that hole on the manifold plugged.
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  #15  
Old 02-10-2011, 07:58 AM
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I've got a manual linkage for my xfer case. I've got that hole on the manifold plugged.
Well then, we can safely rule out a leak in the vacuum shift system.

Whats the word on the idle solenoid and brake booster checks?
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Old 02-10-2011, 08:15 AM
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FWIW...if you have an EGR system, check to make sure any filter that is on it is clean and functioning properly. This paper and gauze filter caused all sorts of havoc on my 60 until we cleaned it out.
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Old 02-10-2011, 10:27 AM
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I've had the EGR valve on my 40 (2f with stock emissions) stick open and cause issues. I just undid the vacuum line going to it and pulled a vacuum on the valve and let it snap shut a few times. seemed to fix it.
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Old 02-10-2011, 11:33 AM
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The idle solenoid is funky. It works but only if I manually push the pin in several times before hooking it up to the battery. Once I pulled it off the battery and tried again it wouldnt work. The wiring is good, just seems like the solenoid's innards are gummed up a bit
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  #19  
Old 02-10-2011, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rogue Leader View Post
The idle solenoid is funky. It works but only if I manually push the pin in several times before hooking it up to the battery. Once I pulled it off the battery and tried again it wouldnt work. The wiring is good, just seems like the solenoid's innards are gummed up a bit
Well that would be consistent with the issue you are experiencing.

I don't know that it is a serviceable part that you can take apart and clean up. I would think Mark's Offroad might have a replacement one that you could get. You might also post up in the Wanted section to see if someone has one in their stash/spares. The connector end of these did change a bit over the years, if the one you get does not have the matching connector you could just splice in new connectors. IIRC, your carb is the DD38 that was used from 69 through 74 which is compatible with a "bent needle" solenoid in my spares stash. You are welcome to it, but I don't know if it is reasonable to expect that the needle can be bent straight and work without issue for the long term.

Being that it is sticking and not good, you might try shooting some carb cleaner up into the body and see if it will clear the stickiness. Of course not knowing what it looks like inside it could hasten its death.
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  #20  
Old 02-10-2011, 01:31 PM
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Ricardo, I think technically that should be DD38/38, so you can designate both throttle plate sizes. But that is neither here nor there...

Sean, it would probably be worth checking your idle solenoid. The only serviceable part is the o-ring that goes on it. It may have disintegrated and possibly got pieces lodged in the idle circuit somewhere. If the valve itself is bad, then as Ricardo mentioned you will probably have to find one elsewhere. But do make sure it is getting good clean power though. If there is a problem with it getting consistent power then that needs to be addressed or else you will never be able to get it to really run right.
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