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Old 02-06-2011, 06:15 PM
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Default Moab Ready engine refresh for 2F

Gonna be doing a little work on the 40 to get it in tip-top shape for Moab and the coming summer. Most of this stuff is well documented in other posts, but I'll try to fill in gaps where pictures have been lacking.

"Originally Posted by Air Randy
So your worst cylinder adjusted for altitude is 133 psi, next worse is 141 and the rest are almost 150. 150 is what they should be new at sea level. Generally speaking it sounds like the rings aren't in too bad of shape."

These are words of wisdom. I can't afford a full engine rebuild right now, so the plan is as follows.

1) Remove the engine, transmission and transfer case and take the head in to Gunn for a rebuild.

2) Measure bores and hopefully just do a hone/ream/re-ring on all six cylinders. #s 2 and 5 were the usual low suspects.

3) Replace the rear and front main seals that leak like sieves.

4) Possibly replace the transmission/transfer case seal, though this is not critical since I have that return kit installed so there is a bandaid fix in place.

5) Install my Aussie locker in the rear, with bearing replacement if necessary since I have those parts ready to go.

6) Inspect the front knuckles and rebuild if necessary since I have a kit ready to go. (I think they are OK since I did the front axle service at the WBPP last spring, though we didn't touch the knuckles.)

7) Inspect and replace as necessary the clutch components. It is grinding when I put it in reverse, and there is no more adjustment left.

8) Flush the coolant and the brake fluids and inspect/adjust brakes.

9) Replace those wobbly front blinkers and fix the driver's rear stop lamp short.

And voila! MOAB READY. Project starts tomorrow at Randy's shop, thank you, sir. Help is always welcome, so if you are interested in any particular part, let me know and I will estimate the schedule for that piece of work.
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Old 02-06-2011, 09:34 PM
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Hurry! It will be here before you know it! Sounds like a great list, your 40 will love you!
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Old 02-07-2011, 11:27 AM
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Sounds like what I did back in the late 90's to my 60. I'd add: replace all vacuum and coolant lines
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Old 02-07-2011, 12:05 PM
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Looks like a good plan but I'd want to have 400 miles on it between the work and leaving for Moab to be sure everthing is tight and dialed in.
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Old 02-07-2011, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inukshuk View Post
Sounds like what I did back in the late 90's to my 60. I'd add: replace all vacuum and coolant lines
Good idea. I forgot to put that on my list, but was planning on doing it. I already have the vacuum lines and will probably get the SOR hose set.
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Old 02-07-2011, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 60wag View Post
Looks like a good plan but I'd want to have 400 miles on it between the work and leaving for Moab to be sure everthing is tight and dialed in.
I'm hoping to have this done by the end of this month, so I should have plenty of break-in time.
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1977 FJ40 "Ripper" (because it shreds!) (What is a "shread"...Steve Crase)
1988 FJ62 "Dino" OME, now in the hands of my daughter
2013 F-150 "Black Ops"
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Old 02-08-2011, 11:25 AM
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Day 1 down. Removed shafts, bib, radiator all fluids, Lots of passenger side clutter. Ricardo is an angel of Mercy. He showed up even after his wife expressed the concern that I may be a serial killer. I think he told her, "Nah he's only killed a couple of guys, and they were trying to eat his eggs".

Pictures show the leaky mess caused by a 34 year old rear main seal, and some other gunk and neglect.
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Sascha Steinway TLCA # 20217
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1988 FJ62 "Dino" OME, now in the hands of my daughter
2013 F-150 "Black Ops"
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Old 02-09-2011, 07:58 AM
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Sascha is making very good progress. It is really nice to have a heated facility to work in, the temperature outside was well below 0. The head is likely going to be dropped off at the machine shop today. As of the end of work last night here is what the scene looks like.



We have not really encountered any big issues with the removal. One bolt head needed the "metric #12 vice grip socket" and the head on one of the water pump bolts snapped. Our brief look at the pistons and cylinders found them to be in good shape. There is the expected carbon build up and the cylinder walls are nice a smooth.
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Old 02-09-2011, 04:37 PM
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We got the engine pulled after a long day yesterday. The head is now at Gunn's for him to work his magic. Bleow are a few pics I thought might prove interesting.

1 and 2) The transfer case linkage and shifter are one piece. You take out the top bolt holding down the bracket from above, then take off the nut by the greasable pivot below. Then you take off the nut at the aem on top of the tfer, remove the bracket, and the whole assemply slides off at the greasable arm.

3) To remove the shifter in the cab, you use Ricardo's special factory tool (a long pliers handle) and in the case of my 8/77, teist clockwise while holding downward pressure.

4) Ricardo is a heck of an engine lifter!

5)A view of the engine from the drivers side showing the stock emissions configuration.
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Sascha Steinway TLCA # 20217
1977 FJ40 "Ripper" (because it shreds!) (What is a "shread"...Steve Crase)
1988 FJ62 "Dino" OME, now in the hands of my daughter
2013 F-150 "Black Ops"
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Old 02-09-2011, 04:53 PM
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6) Separating the transmission and attached tfer case from the engine. The back parts sit on Randy's old/busted dolly. Get the angle right with the hoist and pop it apart with a pry bar, then it slides apart.

7) There's my bores all lined up and ready for some further attention.
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1977 FJ40 "Ripper" (because it shreds!) (What is a "shread"...Steve Crase)
1988 FJ62 "Dino" OME, now in the hands of my daughter
2013 F-150 "Black Ops"
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