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  #11  
Old 03-01-2011, 04:54 PM
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gr8fulabe gr8fulabe is offline
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Thanks Guys! I don't have an air compressor, so I just used a scraper I got at sears to get the big stuff off, followed by a razor blade as suggested, and then a scotch brite pad with first brake cleaner, then acetone. It seems like it is pretty clean now (hopefully).
Any suggestions for re-installing, as far as not using any of the gasket sealer stuff (don't have any & its a little way to town). Also, my manual is at a friends house, so does anyone happen to know if there is a specific bolt order for these, and what the torque spec might be?
One last question, where do the little holes between the push-rods go to? Are they justa direct line into the oil pan for drainage of oil as it circulates, or something else?
thanks,
Abe
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  #12  
Old 03-01-2011, 05:00 PM
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The little holes are for oil drainage.

You could probably use rubber cement for the gasket if you have some of that to bond it.

As far as the torque goes, maybe a search on mud would turn it up. Otherwise i could look when I get home in a few hours.
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  #13  
Old 03-01-2011, 07:25 PM
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Thanks for the answers Marco. I went ahead and drove down to Napa & picked up some, "high tack gasket sealant" from them. My next question is, if (and you guys might not know) if I was to put the tack on the gasket & new side cover tonight, do I have to turn around & get it on the engine side & put it all toghether tonight, or can I do part of it, and finish tomorrow? No garage, and now its dark & getting colder, etc... so I don't know how much longer I will be able to work on it.
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Abe
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  #14  
Old 03-01-2011, 07:34 PM
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you can respray the gasket later and brakeclean will remove the high tack from the block and you can respray it later also. it will only remain tacky for a small time. i use high tack on almost everything i assemble.
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  #15  
Old 03-01-2011, 08:11 PM
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53-69 in-lbs is what I found for the front timing gear cover (looking at the little bolts) which has a similar gasket and bolt sizes on it. I couldn't find specs for the lifter cover bolts but I assume they are similar. Just bolt it down till the gasket squishes a bit, but not so much that it poops the gasket out. that's bad. It'll be less torque than you think.

I don't think i'd leave the adhesive on both surfaces overnight... seems like that is too long. It is supposed to sit on there until it tacks up a bit, but not for hours and hours. Maybe 5-30 minutes? That's more of a guess though

edit:

quick search on mud turned up 35 in-lbs and 61 in-lbs. Basically tighten it snug so the gasket squishes a bit but doesn't start to poop out like i said above.
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Old 03-01-2011, 08:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover67 View Post
53-69 in-lbs is what I found for the front timing gear cover (looking at the little bolts) which has a similar gasket and bolt sizes on it. I couldn't find specs for the lifter cover bolts but I assume they are similar. Just bolt it down till the gasket squishes a bit, but not so much that it poops the gasket out. that's bad. It'll be less torque than you think.

I don't think i'd leave the adhesive on both surfaces overnight... seems like that is too long. It is supposed to sit on there until it tacks up a bit, but not for hours and hours. Maybe 5-30 minutes? That's more of a guess though

edit:

quick search on mud turned up 35 in-lbs and 61 in-lbs. Basically tighten it snug so the gasket squishes a bit but doesn't start to poop out like i said above.
Which is about 3-5 foot lbs. Be careful using a torque wrench though as they get pretty inaccurate when you're working that low on the scale. As Marco says, you basically tighten them until you start to feel resistance from the gasket, then go maybe a 1/4 to 1/2 turn further. Thats going to get you real close to 3-5 ft lbs. You can always snug them up a bit more later if you get a little seepage.
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Old 03-01-2011, 11:23 PM
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Maybe not like a mirror but it needs to be really clean unless you don't mind oil leaks. Do you have access to an air compressor? I bought one of the small cut off tool devices and installed a small wire wheel on it. It will clean off a cork side cover gasket in about 5 mintues. You can do it with a wire wheel chucked up in a drill too but they're usually larger and hard to get into the tight spots.
Yep, wire wheel chucked up to an air grinder is my bestest friend for getting old chunky decades-old cork gasket off. Obviously scrape as much off with a putty knife or similar beforehand as you can. I stuff rags into place where I don't want the pieces to go. When you're done it will look like a mirror so no worries

Smear a thin coating of RTV sealant (I like the blue permatex) onto the surface of the new gasket and then stick it onto the side cover, timing gear cover, oil pan or whatever. That serves 2 purposes. One it allows the gasket to peel right off if you are the unlucky sod who has to R&R it at some point in the future, and two, it helps hold the gasket in place for assembly. In fact, it is almost a requirement for side covers, timing gear covers and oil pans just to hold the gasket in place while putting things back together. I like to put a couple of the bolts through the holes to help hold things in place and let the sealant skim over a bit for a half hour or so prior to reassembly. Good time to have a beverage and contemplate what might go wrong so as to avoid it.
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  #18  
Old 03-02-2011, 01:42 PM
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Thanks for all the tips guys! My new, dented side cover is now in place & hopefully all secured properly & ready to go. This brings me to part two of this project, the new distributor. It is an 87, big cap electronic one, so will hopefully be a big upgrade.

When I broke the old distributor a while back, you guys all gave me some tips for finding Top Dead Center, but they pretty much required two people for me to do them. Does anyone have any ideas on how to get to TDC with only one person working on the truck? I had two days off between my old job & my new job that starts tomorrow, so I figured I would take advantage of the great weather!
Thanks,
Abe
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  #19  
Old 03-02-2011, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by gr8fulabe View Post
When I broke the old distributor a while back, you guys all gave me some tips for finding Top Dead Center, but they pretty much required two people for me to do them. Does anyone have any ideas on how to get to TDC with only one person working on the truck? I had two days off between my old job & my new job that starts tomorrow, so I figured I would take advantage of the great weather!
Thanks,
Abe
Remove all the spark plugs and stuff a Kleenex tissue into the cylinder #1 spark plug hole. Turn the engine over and when the Kleenex pops out, start watching the flywheel carefully because when the BB gets to the pointer you will be at 7 degress BTDC, which is an ideal spot to stab the distributor.

This method uses the air pressure that builds as the piston is coming up to "pop" out the tissue; signaling that you are on the compression stroke.

I have one of the hand crank bars that I use to turn the engine. With the spark plugs out you can put the truck in 4th gear and rock it forward to turn the engine over. Some are able to grab the fan belt and use it to rotate the engine. Others use a remote starter.
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