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  #11  
Old 03-29-2011, 12:11 PM
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If I remember correctly from my last visit to Randy's to help him bleed his brakes, they are Nitro 4.88's. Not that they are mine I just saw them glistening in the warm glow of fluorescent lighting.
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  #12  
Old 03-29-2011, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powderpig View Post
If it is the rear differential, the rear pinion shim is usually around .050(old ones that I remove are typically this thick) when i remove to install lower gear ratio gear sets. As for the bearing caps, good luck on that one fit hey are not marked. One way to make sure is to loosely install the bearing caps and see if the threads will line up easily, and the adjusting nuts will work easily.
As for putting 150 lbs of torque on the bearing with out the crush sleeve, I would bet that the bearings are going to reach a preload with a lot less force.

What gear ratio is one using? What brand of gears are you using. I did not read the orginal post that well and commented on something that does not pertain.
More information is better than not enough.
If it is the rear differential, the rear pinion shim is usually around .050(old ones that I remove are typically this thick) when i remove to install lower gear ratio gear sets. WHAT IF IT IS A FRONT DIFF? ANY GUESS ON SHIM SIZE?

As for the bearing caps, good luck on that one fit hey are not marked. One way to make sure is to loosely install the bearing caps and see if the threads will line up easily, and the adjusting nuts will work easily. AGREED

As for putting 150 lbs of torque on the bearing with out the crush sleeve, I would bet that the bearings are going to reach a preload with a lot less force. AGREED

What gear ratio is one using? What brand of gears are you using. 4.88 NITROS
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  #13  
Old 03-29-2011, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr. Schlegs View Post
from my last visit to Randy's to help him bleed his brakes
To be clear, said individual just showed up (probably to mooch something from me) and I happened to put him to work pumping the pedal (which he is qualified to do) instead of hooking up the power bleeder.
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  #14  
Old 03-29-2011, 12:50 PM
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When was Tom over to your place?
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'72 FJ-40 - 33's, F&R Disc Brake Conversation, rear ARB, sliders, Winch.

'96 FZJ-80 - Borla Exhaust, ARB w/ M8000, OME 3" lift, sliders, 305 BFG KM2, 4.88's and ARBs, and usually dog hair.

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  #15  
Old 03-29-2011, 01:07 PM
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When was Tom over to your place?
Hey, I left out the part about it taking me longer to explain the pump-hold-release-pump cycle to you than it would have taken to hookup the power bleeder Leave poor old Tom out of this
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  #16  
Old 03-29-2011, 01:25 PM
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Hey, Leave poor old Tom out of this
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Old 03-29-2011, 02:59 PM
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Stock pinion shim for the front is close to .070.
This only works if you have the same koyo bearing that came out of the diff from the factory.
As for the kits that JT sells. some time they sub different bearing, but are close to the same bearing. This can some times add to the equation. Some of the pinion bearing have been thicker than stock, thus needing to some math to figure out the right shim or group of shims to make it work.
good luck
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  #18  
Old 03-29-2011, 03:46 PM
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Thanks Robbie

.050 in the rear and .070 in front for starting points.
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  #19  
Old 03-29-2011, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Air Randy View Post
Hey, I left out the part about it taking me longer to explain the pump-hold-release-pump cycle to you than it would have taken to hookup the power bleeder Leave poor old Tom out of this
Yeah what he said.......................now pump boy pump!!!
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