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  #31  
Old 04-28-2011, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by ianacole View Post
The stopping on highway is my bigger concern. I give a lot of room to stop as it sometimes feels I won't stop in a reasonable distance. A pad replacement should help with this, but I figured if I can find a better stopping solution at a reasonable price and amount of effort it would be a worthy upgrade.
You can go that route but my advice is to fix what you have first. Once you've done that, if you still want more braking power, then start doing upgrades. As you start doing mods you can run in to problems. If you don't have a good baseline to start from, you won't know if you're still dealing with the original issue or if you've caused a new one with the stuff you've installed. Then you start throwing money at stuff and replacing parts en masse.
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  #32  
Old 04-28-2011, 08:41 AM
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Good point, and cheaper too. I'll start with the pads. Thanks Randy!
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  #33  
Old 04-28-2011, 08:44 AM
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Changing out brakes on a 40 can be a slippery slope. Going to the mini truck disc setup you already have is an easy conversion and works well. If you decide to go with rear discs there are a lot of bolt on kits out there but then you start to run into proportioning issues. I have the Monte Carlo rear discs and even if I run 2 proportioning valves in series, I cannot get the front brakes to lock up before the rears do unless the pressure is so restricted the front just don't work well.
Strange ... I have my prop valve in series with the rear circuit and if I nearly disable the rears with it, if anything the fronts clamp harder! The truck doesn't stop as well with no rears though.???
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  #34  
Old 04-28-2011, 04:14 PM
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I bet it just feels that way. I checked mine with a brake pressure gauge and even when you cut the pressure to one circuit, the pressure does not go up in the other circuit. I also found via my gauge testing, anytime the pressure to a circuit is at or below 600 psi, the brakes on that circuit are virtually useless. On the Toyota MC's I tested the average was 1600 psi at both the front and the rear.

I think the lock up issue I have is mostly due to the MC I am using. I installed the Marlin FJ80 MC that is setup for front and rear disc brakes. I think it is moving too much volume to the rear discs. Because they are huge Monte Carlo disc/rotors, with equal volume/pressure as the fronts, they just over whelm the Toyota units in the front. If I go to a T100 MC that has a different rear bias (moves less fluid to the rears because they were drum brakes) it may be enough in conjunction with the Prop valve to get them better balanced.
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  #35  
Old 04-28-2011, 04:16 PM
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Good point, and cheaper too. I'll start with the pads. Thanks Randy!
Could be just pads, make sure your calipers aren't leaking and be sure to bleed them to get out any air. If you have drums in the rear make sure the shoes are good and they are properly adjusted. If that doesn't work then you should check the pressure on your MC.
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  #36  
Old 04-29-2011, 11:00 AM
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Assuming something else isn't wrong as described above, the IFS large capacity calipers with FZJ80 MC and V6 booster will definitely yield more stopping power rolling big meats. Depends on what you need.
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