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Old 05-20-2011, 06:35 PM
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Rzeppa Rzeppa is offline
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Default 1987 FJ60 Fails Emissions

So our new-to-us FJ60 failed emissions. Numbers were 5.39 out of 3.50 for HC and 98.7 out of 30.0 for CO. NOx passed.

This is the rig that was for sale here on the RS board that had the MAF engine that had to be rebuilt not long after the MAF long block was installed. Here is the original post: http://risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/s...ad.php?t=15173

We gotta get her to pass to get plates. Some facts:

163k miles, 5k since motor rebuild
3k since carb rebuild, new cats, new emissions computer, vacuum line replacement

She runs great. Seller advises that Joe Calleja had put in a smaller jet (main primary) which helped get her to pass a little over a year ago. He subsequently put the old one back in saying she ran better with the larger jet. I haven’t put the smaller one back in yet. And I don’t want to if I don’t have to – 60s are not easy to do stuff under the hood – way too much stuff under there!

The first test was “just in case” she might pass as-is. I didn’t put any heet into the gas or do anything, just had lovely Linda take her down and get her tested. Since then, I have changed out the air filter element and inspected the plugs; they are pretty white. As a sanity check I did a good visual on all the emissions components and found a couple of vacuum lines connected to each other up by the thermostat.

Wanting to connect them properly I found the BVSV open, and am 99% sure that 2 of these lines are supposed to go to it. I have a Haynes, and a factory emissions manual for 1976 model year which isn’t very helpful as by 1987 a lot of stuff got a lot more complicated. As far as I can tell the BVSV is for the spark control system, and opens when the coolant gets above 111F. This delays the ignition timing if the throttle position is above the advancer port when the engine is hot.

The thing in the front is an aftermarket temperature sender. Was there supposed to be another BVSV there???

Here is an image of the unconnected BVSV:
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Old 05-20-2011, 06:39 PM
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So I am trying to figure out where to connect these 4 vacuum hoses. Clearly 2 of them go to this BVSV. I have some extra FJ60 emissions parts lying around and took the spare vacuum spaghetti doohicky (tech term) and laid it on top to take a picture so you can all see the 4 ends I am talking about. If you look at the 4 ends in the middle of the picture of the spare, I am pretty sure the upper 2 are the ones that are supposed to connect to the BVSV, but if somebody who has a stock 60 could take a peek and verify I'd sure appreciate it.
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Old 05-20-2011, 06:43 PM
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So now the question is, where are the lower two supposed to go. Again, on this rig they are simply connected to each other. But I can not find where?!?!?

Because of the numbers, I am wondering if the air injection system is working properly. All the stuff is there, but I don't know if it is actually injecting air into the exhaust when it is supposed to, or if at all.

I did a scan of the manual, and if you look where I pointed the arrow, it looks like there are supposed to be 2 vacuum lines that go somewhere in the vicinity of my mystery lines, but I can not tell what in the heck they are supposed to connect to. Can anyone help me out with this?
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Old 05-20-2011, 06:47 PM
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Does anyone know the easiest way to tell if the AI system is working when it is supposed to?

Final factoid, I checked the timing this evening and it was set at 17. I know our F series engines like plenty of static advance, but also know they get better smog numbers when set at factory numbers, so I set it back to 7.

I do plan on putting a couple of bottles of Heet in before the retest, maybe even a couple gallons of E85 like Steve Helmreich was talking about in the 80 series emissions thread.
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Old 05-20-2011, 07:05 PM
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I don't remember the exact hose connections well anymore so I'm not much help there. One thing I did learn though after numerous test failures was that the output of the air pump is usually weak. A rebuilt pump contains new bearings but has the same worn out vanes in it. It might be worth checking the inside of you pump to see what's in it. I got a rebuilt once that had 2 of the 3 vanes in it. Setting the idle as high as allowed for the test might up the pump output enough to make a difference. Also check the function of the two check valves where the air is injected into the exhaust stream. A failed check valve will let hot exhaust back up to the bypass valves and can cook the diaphrams. I'm a strong proponent of getting everything working properly but if the bypass valve has failed, finding a good one could be expensive. Altering the plumbing to assure that all of the air pump output is fed into the exhaust all the time might bring down the CO and HC numbers. The chances of overheating the cat with a weak air pump I think are slim.
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Old 05-20-2011, 10:53 PM
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There are two temperature switched valves in the area where you are pointing. Therefore the four attachments on the brass spaghetti. IIRC, these open at two different temperatures and allow for smog operation when the truck is warm and hot. I'd try bypassing the actual value and see what that does. I assume it would then act as always open. In your current case you may be leaving a vacuum switched value closed (as you are sucking atmosphere instead of passing that vacuum on to the intended part) that turns on some of the smog equipment further down the chain.

Problem with a worn 2F from that era is the smog barely works when connected correctly. I actually had a 60 run cleaner desmogged and tuned than with 1987 emissions in operation in the rig. Good luck.

K
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Old 05-21-2011, 12:54 AM
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Jeff, my 60 is a 4/87 build and all emissions stuff is stock and intact as far as I know. Next time you are in the city you are welcome to take a look underhood. Sash
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Old 05-21-2011, 06:21 AM
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One of the valve works the EGR system, I do not remember what the other one does. Later this morning after a graduation ceremony I will be back home and see if I can take a picture of a vacuum diagram I have and post it if I can, if not I will send it to you in a e-mail Jeff.
It looks like you are running rich and need to subtract fuel. So I can see the statement of having the jets changed out for the emissions is a valid statement. So you may need to do that to get that richness out of the equation.
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Old 05-21-2011, 07:29 AM
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Default vac lines.

I just took a look at my hookup (all stock emissions setup). If I'm looking at everything correctly...

you'll notice the hardlines in that picture are on two 'planes' - two are nearer the firewall the other two nearer the front of the vehicle. the Vac lines from the two bvsv valves (blue/red) are connected in a direct relationship to the location of the hardlines.

That is, for example, from the blue valve connect to the frontmost hardlines left to left, right to right. then...on the red one (lower), same idea. Blue BVSV is part of the EGR system and if I can figure out my scanner I'll post up the page from the emissions manual or just take a picture.

So...the answer is the lower bvsv valve thingie (red one) should be hooked to the lower/rearmost hardlines Left to left/right to right.

I hope that makes sense and.... Robbie...can you confirm/deny?
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Old 05-21-2011, 09:43 AM
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Jeff, Maybe this will help.

I also have a copy of the 2F emissions manual if you need it. It is a big file, but if you help me do an FTP thing I can get it to you...
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