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  #11  
Old 05-21-2011, 09:48 AM
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BTW the Pink and Violet designations for the BVSV's is correct on the diagram. The discussion on mud is that the colors fade to what they look like now on your truck...
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  #12  
Old 05-21-2011, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by BreckBJ44 View Post
I'd try bypassing the actual value and see what that does.
As I wrote, they already are bypassed! The lines are connected in such a way as to act as if the BVSV is already open. And you indirectly answered my other question "Where do these other two lines go?". I would guess that the aftermarket temperature sender on the top half of the thermostat housing is occupying a place where a second BVSV should go.
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  #13  
Old 05-21-2011, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by powderpig View Post
One of the valve works the EGR system, I do not remember what the other one does. Later this morning after a graduation ceremony I will be back home and see if I can take a picture of a vacuum diagram I have and post it if I can, if not I will send it to you in a e-mail Jeff.
It looks like you are running rich and need to subtract fuel. So I can see the statement of having the jets changed out for the emissions is a valid statement. So you may need to do that to get that richness out of the equation.
Thanks Robbie. I think from what Breck44 wrote that there is supposed to be a second BVSV where that aftermarket temperature sender is above and forward of the first (pink) one. The manual says one of them is for spark control. The manual also shows 2 lines going to that vicinity for the AI system, but does not say where they go.

As far as rich/lean, the plugs were VERY white. Normally I associate that with a lean mixture.
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Last edited by Rzeppa; 05-21-2011 at 04:03 PM. Reason: clarification
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Old 05-21-2011, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by CardinalFJ60 View Post
I just took a look at my hookup (all stock emissions setup). If I'm looking at everything correctly...

you'll notice the hardlines in that picture are on two 'planes' - two are nearer the firewall the other two nearer the front of the vehicle. the Vac lines from the two bvsv valves (blue/red) are connected in a direct relationship to the location of the hardlines.

That is, for example, from the blue valve connect to the frontmost hardlines left to left, right to right. then...on the red one (lower), same idea. Blue BVSV is part of the EGR system and if I can figure out my scanner I'll post up the page from the emissions manual or just take a picture.

So...the answer is the lower bvsv valve thingie (red one) should be hooked to the lower/rearmost hardlines Left to left/right to right.

I hope that makes sense and.... Robbie...can you confirm/deny?
Yes, the way they are connected in pairs is front/top and then rear/bottom. I only have the pink BVSV at the bottom rear, and do not have a blue one. I am pretty sure the aftermarket temperature sender is occupying the spot where another BVSV is supposed to go.
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  #15  
Old 05-21-2011, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by rover67 View Post
BTW the Pink and Violet designations for the BVSV's is correct on the diagram. The discussion on mud is that the colors fade to what they look like now on your truck...
Yep, no violet BVSV. I *think* you guys have helped solve my mystery.

Fortunately, the stock temp gauge works just fine and there is no good reason to keep that aftermarket gauge in there. As I wrote (and you can see from the diagram I posted at the beginning of this thread), there are 2 lines which go to the vicinity of the thermostat housing which are part of the AI system, and it is the operation of the AI system that I am particularly concerned about. I just want to make sure it is blowing clean air into the exhaust stream when it is supposed to!
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  #16  
Old 05-21-2011, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by 60wag View Post
I don't remember the exact hose connections well anymore so I'm not much help there. One thing I did learn though after numerous test failures was that the output of the air pump is usually weak. A rebuilt pump contains new bearings but has the same worn out vanes in it. It might be worth checking the inside of you pump to see what's in it. I got a rebuilt once that had 2 of the 3 vanes in it. Setting the idle as high as allowed for the test might up the pump output enough to make a difference. Also check the function of the two check valves where the air is injected into the exhaust stream. A failed check valve will let hot exhaust back up to the bypass valves and can cook the diaphrams. I'm a strong proponent of getting everything working properly but if the bypass valve has failed, finding a good one could be expensive. Altering the plumbing to assure that all of the air pump output is fed into the exhaust all the time might bring down the CO and HC numbers. The chances of overheating the cat with a weak air pump I think are slim.
Thanks Bruce!

I have no stomach for pulling the pump at this point in time, and I gave my spare to my daughter for her 60. But I have no indication one way or the other that there is anything wrong with the pump itself, and there is every possibility that it is the original OEM pump and not a reman. As long as the PS pump doesn't leak onto them they usually last a good long time. But you are right about the ABV diaphragm, Joe Calleja told me those diaphragms are fairly brittle and can dry out and crack and prevent flow into the rail, basically bypassing all the time.

I do have a spare ABV, ACV, VSV(1) and VSV(2), relief valve, check valves, VTVs, and possibly even BVSVs. I'll take a look - if I do have spare BVSVs, since they are loose I can even test them for proper operation before mounting them and reconnecting the vacuum lines.

And the thought did occur to me to do as you suggested, just hook the output of the pump directly to the check valve at the rail inlet and let 'er rip 100% of the time just to get through the test. I did that on my '76 FJ40 (bypassed the ABV) and it worked just fine.
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  #17  
Old 05-21-2011, 04:07 PM
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OK, I located my spare BVSVs, both still installed in a thermostat housing that used to be on an FJ60 2F. I pulled them and tested them using the procedure in the manual. I used a meat thermometer (close enough I reckon) and the violet one switched pretty close to the 111F the manual calls for. My Haynes does not show a switching temp for the pink one. Mine actually switches a little below ambient, around 55-60F; I had to put some ice in to get it down to where it would switch. Does anyone have a manual that show the proper switching temp for the pink BVSV?
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  #18  
Old 05-22-2011, 01:13 PM
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Does anyone know the proper switching temperature for the pink BVSV?
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  #19  
Old 05-22-2011, 01:37 PM
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I can tell you tomorrow... My 2F emissions manual is at work packed away in a box....

They moved us to a new area this weekend.
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  #20  
Old 05-22-2011, 01:40 PM
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found one online:

http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wa...ml#post4879573

Looks like maybe the one you are looking to test if part of the choke opener system. Pg 3-42 of the PDF says closed below 41 deg F and open above 66f
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