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  #21  
Old 05-22-2011, 05:35 PM
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MDH33 MDH33 is offline
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Jeff, If you want, I can bring my 60 over and you can do a side by side comparison for the vacuum connections since mine is totally stock. Sometimes this is easier than the diagrams.
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  #22  
Old 05-22-2011, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover67 View Post
found one online:

http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wa...ml#post4879573

Looks like maybe the one you are looking to test if part of the choke opener system. Pg 3-42 of the PDF says closed below 41 deg F and open above 66f
Thanks Marco, I found a different thread on mud that said 66. I did have to add ice to the water and drop it below ambient to get it to close. Seemed more like around 50-60, but the darn thing has a much slower thermal response than my thermometer.
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  #23  
Old 05-22-2011, 10:03 PM
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So I put in the smaller jet. A 147 was in there, the one Joe Calleja had installed for the PO to pass emissions is a 138, which I re-installed. With all the smog junk in the way, doing practically anything under the hood of this 60 is a Royal PITA. I nearly lost the old jet taking it out but was able to get it. The clearance in front of the carb is only a couple of inches and you can't even get a normal screwdriver in there, and a stubby is too fat to fit in the hole, and a little one isn't stout enough. I used a screwdriver bit for a drill driver and a 1/4" box wrench to operate the bit.

Between setting the timing to factory 7 and rejetting, she officially idles like a$$. I drove her to Evergreen and back and she drives okay, but kept stalling at idle. I adjusted the idle screw up to keep her from stalling. I should probably enrich the idle adjustment screw, but since I plan on putting everything back after passing, why bother? Just to get to it requires taking a bunch of stuff off.

I have been thinking about those BVSVs not being connected. They really aren't going to make any difference to pass smog, since I will be testing at full up operating temp and the hoses are connected to each other that same as if both valves were open indicating full on operating temperature. They really only do anything below normal operating temperature. So I am going to go see about getting retested before I reconnect the BVSVs, then deal with them later, as they will only make a difference when the rig hasn't warmed up yet.
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  #24  
Old 05-23-2011, 12:23 PM
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subzali subzali is offline
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You got it on the BVSVs Jeff. I don't think they're your problem either.

Sounds to me as well like your Air Injection System may have issues, going off what Robbie said about running rich. The Air Injection would effectively lean out the tailpipe. If your plugs are already white with the 147 jet I wouldn't run the 138 jet very long, but it may be just enough to pass smog.
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  #25  
Old 05-23-2011, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subzali View Post
You got it on the BVSVs Jeff. I don't think they're your problem either.

Sounds to me as well like your Air Injection System may have issues, going off what Robbie said about running rich. The Air Injection would effectively lean out the tailpipe. If your plugs are already white with the 147 jet I wouldn't run the 138 jet very long, but it may be just enough to pass smog.
No way is this rig running rich. The plugs were white even before I changed out the main jet. I can't wait to get that 147 back in there and re-advance the static timing. I drove her to work today and she's really running crappy on the primary side. I brought a screwdriver to adjust the idle speed if need be, she is having stall issues at idle. I also brought a 12mm wrench to reset the timing as soon as I get out of the Envirotest station!
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  #26  
Old 05-23-2011, 02:02 PM
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The air pump on my '78 sounded and look great, but put out little air. I installed a reman and that one put out about 2x the air, and the CO dropped considerably on the e-test (years ago, in El Paso county). Before returning the core, I took it apart, and chunks were missing from the vanes. You should feel a moderate breeze out of your air pump outlet, not just a faint wind. I realize those are subjective terms. Maybe find another RS member with a good/new air pump and compare the idle or 2500 rpm output of the pumps?

GM engines (in the past) were smog generating beasts, and the standard solution at the time was a big air pump and a firey hot catalyst. I wouldn't underestimate the importance of that. I think your idea of routing the air pump directly to the rail without the valve is a fine one, too.
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  #27  
Old 05-23-2011, 06:49 PM
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Default Pass!!!!

She passed!

CO improved by a factor of over 21 thousand - from 98.688 GPM to 0.0046 GPM.
HC Improved by a factor of almost 47 - from 5.3907 to 0.1133

NOx got slightly worse but still passed by a factor of almost 2.

Since the failing the first test here are the things I did:
  • Replaced air cleaner element
  • Set timing from 17 to factory 7
  • Changed primary main jet from 147 to 138
  • Added 4 12 oz. bottle of Heet to 8 gallons of gasoline

I think the jet and the timing were probably the most important. I doubt changing the air cleaner element did squat but it made me feel better. I don't think the Heet makes that much difference in that much gas, but who knows, maybe it does?

It runs like a$$ right now, and in fact I thought it was going to fail because it kept stalling out for the tester dude. But he kept at it and she passed.

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  #28  
Old 05-23-2011, 07:37 PM
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Nice!
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  #29  
Old 05-23-2011, 07:37 PM
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Congrats man!!!
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  #30  
Old 05-23-2011, 10:00 PM
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Nice work Jeff. Good info for the next guy too.
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