Rising Sun Member Forums  

Go Back   Rising Sun Member Forums > Toyota 4x4 > General Tech Forum

Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old 06-07-2011, 10:20 AM
Rezarf's Avatar
Rezarf Rezarf is offline
Hard Core 4+
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Louisville, CO
Posts: 4,090
Default Rust repair advice

I am going to attack the rust on the 40 this summer. My fenders are starting to rust at the typical spots, I have rust at the bottom rear of the rockers, and I have rot along the rear sill and at both rear corners of the cruiser. Drivers side floor is swiss-cheesed as well, as are the door bottoms... all four. Other than that I am SOLID

For those of you who have BTDT, I am trying to decide which sections are easiest to ease into body work again. I am going to cut out the crud and weld in new steel. I was wondering what you would suggest for recoating the welded area's? I am thinking stripping the section several inches, cutting out the rot, fitting and welding in new steel, grinding smoothing, body filller to smooth, epoxy sealer, primer, top coat... does that sound about right? My only heistation is the time it may take to get around the whole truck and habving the primer exposed for a long time before a repaint.

I have used some of Sherwin Williams over the counter canned products in the past with good success, is there something else local that would better for the spray stuff?

Also, I am just running CO2 through my MIG and I am wondering if I ought to bite the bullet for the argon-co2 mix? I have heard it burns a little cleaner. Also what gauge wire should I play with for this thin sheet metal? .025"?

Thanks in advance, I am not going for showroom quality but I don't want a gobbled mess when I am done either.
__________________
Rezarf <><
My rig... "Maude"
1976 FJ40 with some stuff and some leaks.

1999 UZJ 100 Series bone stock ready to rock AKA:The backup minivan

2012 Toyota Sienna Minivan, fastest Toyota in the stable.

My camping trailer build up thread.

"You 80 guys are just a Sawzall away from nirvana." -Red Chili
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 06-07-2011, 10:31 AM
subzali's Avatar
subzali subzali is online now
Rising Sun member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Denver CO
Posts: 7,617
Default

Start with the least visible panels/parts. Personally I would probably attack the driver's floorboard first.

And think about this - if you screw up the fenders too badly, they are still available from Toyota, so maybe you could move there next
__________________
Matt Miller
TLCA# 13684
Rising Sun Bio
1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, Metric TLC leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 06-07-2011, 10:35 AM
Jacket's Avatar
Jacket Jacket is offline
Rising Sun Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Lafayette
Posts: 4,101
Default

I dunno if I'm qualified to give advice, but I can say that if I could repair the rear sill with reasonable success, you'll have no trouble at all. I've got some of the same body issues as you, and I've got floor boards on my radar, although I think I'm going to try the patch panels from Pacol (or similar source) rather than trying to repair what I have.
__________________
- Matt
1976 FJ40 - green and mostly stock
1996 FZJ80 - not so stock
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 06-07-2011, 10:35 AM
AHorseThief's Avatar
AHorseThief AHorseThief is offline
Lifted
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Lakewood, CO
Posts: 164
Default Weldering

Haven't started weldering on the 40 yet, so I can't help you with where to start, but as far as wire and gas my plan is to use .023 wire with 75/25 gas.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 06-07-2011, 01:36 PM
cbmontgo's Avatar
cbmontgo cbmontgo is offline
Hard Core 4+
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Larkspur, CO
Posts: 863
Default

There is a product called Eastwood Rust Encapsulator that is easy to apply and would protect the exposed steel while you work on other areas. From what I remember, it is a lot thinner and easier to apply than POR-15.
__________________
'73 FJ40
'76 FJ40
'96 FZJ80
'00 UZJ100

TLCA # 14207
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 06-07-2011, 02:19 PM
SteveH SteveH is offline
Hard Core 4+
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Colo Springs
Posts: 1,311
Default

I have spent the last two-ish years fixing the body on my 1980 FJ - using a lot of steel that I welded in, as well as a PACOL rear quarter panel. I used .030 wire and 75/25 and set the welder to a pretty high current and low feed. I was generally happy with how the welding went, but after fixing 40-odd rust holes, it's very tiring after a while. See photo of the rusty bits I cut out - notice the screwdriver in the pix for scale. The OEM quarter panel I removed is not in the photo.

Matt's advice is solid - start with floor pans and places that allow you to learn the finer welding points without having appearance be an issue.

RE: PACOL - the first two full rear quarter panels I ordered were literally unusable due to grossly inaccurate production tolerances - (the hard top could not be made to fit). PACOL sent me another set at no cost. The second fender (the one actually now welded to my truck) was better in one critical way, but horrid in others. After installing the pass. side, I just fixed my OEM driver's side fender, rather than risk learning how bad the other fender was.

I have 3 spare PACOL rear quarter panels ('79-83 era) in my garage, if anyone wants to see them. I did document all my issues and sent many annotated photos to PACOL showing them the problems.

I would buy only CCoT repair panels and simply try to fix as many holes and problems that you can using flat steel stock. Repair panels that fit perfectly would be really neat, but fiddling around with mine added months to my job and a high stress level.

I wish you the best in tackling this - if my bondo-bucket could be rehabbed, anyone's can.
Attached Images
   
__________________
Steve H.
Colo Springs, CO
'78 FJ40, '89 FJ62, '98 4Runner

Last edited by SteveH; 06-07-2011 at 02:20 PM. Reason: clarification
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 06-07-2011, 10:41 PM
Rezarf's Avatar
Rezarf Rezarf is offline
Hard Core 4+
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Louisville, CO
Posts: 4,090
Default

Thanks guys, I appreciate it. Wow Steve, thats a lot of rust to kick out of that cruiser. Good on you bud!
__________________
Rezarf <><
My rig... "Maude"
1976 FJ40 with some stuff and some leaks.

1999 UZJ 100 Series bone stock ready to rock AKA:The backup minivan

2012 Toyota Sienna Minivan, fastest Toyota in the stable.

My camping trailer build up thread.

"You 80 guys are just a Sawzall away from nirvana." -Red Chili
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 06-07-2011, 11:02 PM
Jacket's Avatar
Jacket Jacket is offline
Rising Sun Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Lafayette
Posts: 4,101
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rezarf View Post
Wow Steve
x2. That's a lot of bits.
__________________
- Matt
1976 FJ40 - green and mostly stock
1996 FZJ80 - not so stock
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 06-08-2011, 06:53 AM
SteveH SteveH is offline
Hard Core 4+
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Colo Springs
Posts: 1,311
Default

Thanks - in some ways, that rust scrap photo makes it look worse than it really was. And in some ways, it *was* bad. My hat is still off to the east coast crowd who start with much worse. Here's the result as of 2 days ago's wash job:
Attached Images
 
__________________
Steve H.
Colo Springs, CO
'78 FJ40, '89 FJ62, '98 4Runner
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 06-08-2011, 09:24 AM
subzali's Avatar
subzali subzali is online now
Rising Sun member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Denver CO
Posts: 7,617
Default

steve, what kind of front bumper is that?
__________________
Matt Miller
TLCA# 13684
Rising Sun Bio
1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, Metric TLC leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:55 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.