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  #11  
Old 06-08-2011, 09:39 AM
SteveH SteveH is offline
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I really have no idea. It was on the truck (along with an 8274) when I got it. It had a locking cylinder (over one of the winch bolts) that I cut off (to remove the winch). I had the bumper sandblasted and powdercoated, and plan to reinstall the winch.

I thought that Warn bumpers (from the 1980s) looked like this, but I can find no brand indication anywhere on it - but perhaps Warn didn't brand such items at that time. It's the exact same length as a toyota bumper and clearly was designed for an FJ40 and an 8274. It's pretty stout, but the winch plate is only attached with four 1" long welds. It survived some serious winching abuse that I gave it, so I think it will hold - it just looks wimpy.
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  #12  
Old 06-08-2011, 09:59 AM
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The advice here is pretty good.

I have a 5 gallon bucket of rusty metal that we cut off the 40, not including the quarters.

1) Get the Argon/CO2 mix.
2) ESAB sells wire that is called "EZ Grind" I haven't used it, but wish I had. The idea is that it is slightly more malleable, so that you can hammer the weld down a bit better, reducing the need for grinding (and counteracting the shrinkage of the metal), and is supposed to grind away easier, reducing heat build-up in the grinding phase. I will try it next time.
3) Epoxy primer can be nasty stuff. That said, I swear by the DP line of Epoxy Primers from PPG. It sprays so well, adheres like nobody's business, and makes even me look good. I'm using it as the final coat even on my axles/frame for the 45. I have a test piece that I shot with DP90LF (the black version of PPGs DP line) and then set outside in the dirt three years ago. Still looks good.
4) When they say "cut until you have good metal" can't be overstated. Pitted metal that doesn't have a hole in it yet, will burn through the instant you touch it with your welder.

Dan
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  #13  
Old 06-08-2011, 12:50 PM
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Rzeppa Rzeppa is offline
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Drew, you are no doubt already familiar with my resto series, right? BTW, I have 2 more pages worth of images I have already uploaded but haven't tied in with written narrative yet. You can view these images using the file naming convention for page 31 and 32 as follows:

http://rzeppa.org/resto/p3101.jpg
http://rzeppa.org/resto/p3102.jpg
.
.
.
http://rzeppa.org/resto/p3117.jpg

and

http://rzeppa.org/resto/p3201.jpg
.
.
.
http://rzeppa.org/resto/p3229.jpg



Anyway, I use .023 solid on sheet metal with 75/25. I have tried .030 flux core and it is really a mess.

I like Zero Rust. I have tried POR and have tried ordinary primers (even the "good stuff" like Eastwood, etc.) and just love the way ZR goes on and stays on. It is also considered a sandable primer. As for final coats, you may already know that stock uses a single stage system, no clear coat! One of the advantages is that most Rocky Mountain pinstripes can be buffed out.

I have found that certain parts are best to buy pre-fabbed patch panels, and other stuff is pretty easy an inexpensive to make from sheet stock, like the picture above.
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  #14  
Old 06-08-2011, 04:56 PM
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Rezarf Rezarf is online now
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Thanks guys, this is some great info. Jeff, you've been working on that cruiser for as long as I have had mine. It is coming along nicely too!

DanS, seems like you are talking from a been there done that
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  #15  
Old 06-08-2011, 07:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rezarf View Post
Thanks guys, this is some great info. Jeff, you've been working on that cruiser for as long as I have had mine. It is coming along nicely too!
Heh. Well there was the HZJ75 that took a lot of my wrench time. Then there is Charlotte, my 71. She's got air conditioned cranckcase at the moment...'nuff said. Then there is Rita the red truck. She's taken a fair amount of my wrench time. My daughter's FJ60 has been a wrench time sink from time to time. And now there is Alice, our new-to-us FJ60.

Running Rising Sun and being on the Cruise Moab committee was a huge thing for a number of years, and then running TLCA was like a second full time job the last couple years.

At the end of the day, Olive's restoration gets pushed down the priority list, weekend in and weekend out. Did I mention that we remodeled our living room, dining room and kitchen this past year?

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  #16  
Old 06-08-2011, 08:06 PM
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Just finished cutting out my Sill Plate on my 1975. I used Jeff's writeup as a guide line, it has been going VERY well, I will post up more pics when complete. Here is a link to about 20 pics http://s274.photobucket.com/albums/j...late%20repair/ here are just a few.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]
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  #17  
Old 06-08-2011, 08:13 PM
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To follow this up. I am using a Miller 211 with autoset, .30 wire and 75/25 argon and an Everlast Plasma cutter. Just take your time, and stitch the panels in place. I filled several dime size holes as well.. Have fun with it, the worst you can do is mess something up and have to do it again.. Do be careful with any undercoating and other close items that may flame up ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher handy!!
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  #18  
Old 06-08-2011, 08:28 PM
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A few more pics I went out and took..

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

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  #19  
Old 06-08-2011, 08:40 PM
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Looks like you used a hole saw to access the back of your 2x2?
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  #20  
Old 06-08-2011, 08:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rzeppa View Post
Looks like you used a hole saw to access the back of your 2x2?
Yep,, It worked great Thanks again Jeff for your write up's!! Without them, I don't know if I would have attempted the sill plate...
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Last edited by PhatFJ; 06-08-2011 at 08:57 PM. Reason: Thanks Jeff
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