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Old 11-11-2005, 08:14 PM
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Rezarf Rezarf is offline
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Default Passing Colorado Emissions fj40

Howdy,

Moved out here to this great state this summer, been traveling and starting a new job since... figure it is high time to get the 40 registered and tagged. I have my carb set for lower altitude, Jim C. rebuild, and I have not adjusted the timing, it is a late model fj60 electric ignition and fat dizzy. Otherwise it is a stock 76 fj40 with a 85 fj60 engine.

My questions are, do I need to have the stock equipment in place when I get checked? Should I rejet the carb now? What happens if I fail, is there a time limit to getting it fixed? Any tricks or tips to getting it through on my first try? This is my DD so I cant afford much down time.

I am just trying to avoid any huge delay or unexpected drama come test time.

Thanks in advance for your time-

Rezarf (Drew)
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Old 11-12-2005, 07:07 AM
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Emissions is easier to pass than you think. When I first bought the 40 it failed, I took it to the station at Folsom and Arapahoe in Boulder, he tweaked it and I passed. And I passed when my air rail was so rusted out it was non-existent, my carb was actually black inside from backfiring, etc etc. I took it to that particular service station because while calling around looking for a mechanic to help several other mechanics in Boulder recomended him for getting a vehicle through emissions. He has the testing equipment and knows how to tweak, he didn't fix anything he just got me past the test.

If you take it in and fail you can get retested for free in a certain time period if you have a receipt for work performed on the vehicle to fix emissions. If you fail and don't want to spend the money on a mechanic Bruce (60wag) is very good with emissions systems and can probably give you a good idea where to look if you tell him the numbers from the test. You will want the factory emissions manual if you do the work yourself (edit: I have the 1976 emissions manual)

(edit: just saw what year your 40 is in the sig) Once you pass the test register it as a collectors vehicle. No more emissions!

As always, if you need help bring it over.
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Old 11-12-2005, 09:50 AM
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Drew,

IIRC, they will check for unleaded fill restrictor and air pump. Othere than that, you just need to beat the numbers...

When I lived in Boulder I had to hop on the wheel dyno. I don't think they will let you on w/ 35's, so you'll need to borrow a set of skinnies.

Clean oil, plugs and air filter help. Backing off on your timing helps. Setting idle UP (~950 RPM) helps generate sufficient vacuum in the intake to help your numbers as well.

Good Luck!
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Old 11-12-2005, 10:26 AM
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What Ian was saying about the collectors vehicle is great. BUT it only counts when you get the 5 year plate. With the 5Year plate, you never have to get emissions again. With the 1 year collector plate you do. That should make it an easy choice.
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Old 11-12-2005, 11:25 AM
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I also have a Louisville '76, tranplanted from sea level. Mine runs a header straight to a muffler, no other smog equipment at all. Test is pretty easy, I took it to the emissions place in Boulder up by the airport and failed the first time. Took the test results over to Charley's in north Boulder http://www.charleysgarage.com/aboutCG.asp and $36 worth of carb adjustment later I passed no problem. Then you just plunk down the cash for the 5 year collector plate, and you're done.
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Old 11-12-2005, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Romer
What Ian was saying about the collectors vehicle is great. BUT it only counts when you get the 5 year plate. With the 5Year plate, you never have to get emissions again. With the 1 year collector plate you do. That should make it an easy choice.
What is the big deal w/ e-testing? I pass no problem...
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Old 11-13-2005, 09:44 PM
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Rezarf Rezarf is offline
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Thanks for all the tips guys.

I desmogged my cruiser years ago, and have all the stuff lying in a box in the garage... air pump and hoses... does that all need to be there to pass a visual inspection or anthing? I would like to get it as close to passing the first time as possible.

I am running headers, no air rail, no nothing really.

Anyone on the carb rejet
?

Thanks in advance-

Drew <><
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My rig... "Maude"
1976 FJ40 with some stuff and some leaks.

1999 UZJ 100 Series bone stock ready to rock AKA:The backup minivan

2012 Toyota Sienna Minivan, fastest Toyota in the stable.

My camping trailer build up thread.

"You 80 guys are just a Sawzall away from nirvana." -Red Chili
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  #8  
Old 11-14-2005, 04:12 AM
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Maybe shoot Jim an email w/ that question...

5000' is just on the verge I believe...
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  #9  
Old 11-14-2005, 09:08 AM
Maddmatt Maddmatt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rezarf
Thanks for all the tips guys.

I desmogged my cruiser years ago, and have all the stuff lying in a box in the garage... air pump and hoses... does that all need to be there to pass a visual inspection or anthing? I would like to get it as close to passing the first time as possible.

I am running headers, no air rail, no nothing really.

Anyone on the carb rejet
?

Thanks in advance-

Drew <><
In a word: NO. As I mentioned, my '76 is also completely desmogged. I passed emissions with just a simple carb adjustment. I would say just take it in and try, you'll probably fail, but it doesn't cost you any extra, and the read out will tell a mechanic, or you if you're way smarter than me, exactly what they need to do. My sea-level carb passed and runs great without being rejetted, and passed the 2nd time no problem.
-Matt
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Old 11-14-2005, 09:59 AM
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If they know what they are doing, the emissions tester guys WILL look for the airrail and smog pump. Matt, you got lucky.

My 40 fails every year. The tags expired in September -- I'm waiting until January so that it will be 25 years old and I can get the 5-year plates (it's a 1981 model).

TJ, they shouldn't have put you on the rollers. Vehicles from 1981 and older require tail pipe emission tests only.
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