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Old 06-19-2006, 05:14 PM
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Rzeppa Rzeppa is offline
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Location: Kittredge CO, USA
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Default Engine Freshen, 4 Speed Conversion

Patient: Stock 3/71 FJ40

Symptoms: Presenting with mechanical engine knock sounds at higher RPMs and higher throttle settings. Symptoms started presenting on the way to Moab. Babying her by staying out of the secondary at higher RPMs has prevented symptoms from becoming more prominent.

Medical History: Original engine developed knock in mid 2000. On New Years Day 2001, RS members helped me swap in a used F out from a 2/71 FJ40 from a guy who did a V8 conversion. Engine's ran great ever since until until Moab 2006, although it has always burned oil, leaked oil and had low compression. Oil pressure is low, 10 PSI at idle when hot, 25 PSI at highway speed when hot.

Diagnosis: Engine is worn out, probably paper-thin rod bearings causing rod knock. Main bearings probably thin also.

Treatment: Install freshened engine; "while I'm in there" new clutch and install the H42 that's been sitting on my garage floor ever since I pulled it from my 76 in favor of an H41.
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Jeff Zepp
Kittredge CO USA
1971 & 1976 FJ40s, 1978 FJ45, 1987 FJ60
Rising Sun 4WD Club, TLCA #4063
http://american3dprinting.net/

Last edited by Rzeppa; 06-19-2006 at 06:28 PM.
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  #2  
Old 06-19-2006, 05:22 PM
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Rzeppa Rzeppa is offline
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In addition to the original F engine that was pulled from her over 5 years ago, I have another F from a 1972 FJ40 that somebody gave me to get it out of their garage. That rig ended up getting the 2F that came out of Kim Brown's 40 when she did her V8 conversion. The 72 came with a bunch of extra and ancillary parts, including a 4 speed bellhousing. They've both been sitting on stands in my garage for years. Every time I walk by one of them I make a mental note that "I need to build an engine one of these days". Well the day came when the one that's in the rig started knocking on the way out to Moab. As of my 6/14 post in the for sale wanted section:

Done so far:

Two F engines disassembled, a 71 and a 72.
All internal parts cleaned on both motors, external parts cleaned from the 71.

Two walls were scored on the 71 block, so I'm using the 72 block, but the crank, cam, oil pump and timing gears from the 71. Lots of broken rings, several mangled pistons from both engines. I picked the best 6, 4 from the 71 and 2 from the 72.

Valves lapped.
Oil pan, side cover and timing gear cover painted.
Crank plastigaged.
Crank installed.
Rods plastigaged.
Rings installed.
Pistons installed.
Oil pump reassembled and installed.
End plate installed.
Crank gear installed.
Cam installed.

Since I had to use the 72 block, I have to use the valve cover from the 72, as the one from the 71 doesn't have an oil fill hole. That sucked because I hadn't cleaned the one from the 72 and it had scads of rust inside. It's done now and ready to paint.

As of the next day, 6/15:

I should have known that things weren't looking good, deadline-wise, aside from parts being late. Yesterday, I cleaned and painted the valve cover, then set it outside in the sunshine to dry. About an hour later I heard a tremendous "clunk" on the garage door. I opened the garage door to find that the wind had knocked the box over, and the valve cover was sitting in the dirt, wet paint side down.

I did get the oil pan on, all the lifters installed and all the valves installed in the head, then gave up early at around six o'clock. Anybody ever install valves before? Those ittie bittie keepers are a PITA! A couple of lifters didn't want to go in and needed a little tapping to get them in, I hope that doesn't turn into a problem when I go to start her up.

I sanded the dirt out of the paint and repainted the valve cover today, that's it. Maybe put the timing cover and head on later on today, but I need to install a new front door on my house first.
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Jeff Zepp
Kittredge CO USA
1971 & 1976 FJ40s, 1978 FJ45, 1987 FJ60
Rising Sun 4WD Club, TLCA #4063
http://american3dprinting.net/

Last edited by Rzeppa; 06-19-2006 at 06:07 PM.
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  #3  
Old 06-19-2006, 05:25 PM
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Now for some photos. Front view of the 72 block with the crank, cam, and timing gears from the 71 F. It's lined up at exactly TDC. Once I got the pistons in, it was a bear to turn the crank. All the main bearings and rod bearings are fine, it's just the new rings on the freshly-honed cylinder walls are creating a lot of friction. As soon as the rings seat in it should be fine (crossing fingers!). I whacked the balancing lobes of the crank with a rubber mallet to turn the crank while the engine was upside down on the stand. I used a suggestion Bill Van Beek gave me over the phone for piston install. Instead of assembly lube, he soaks the ring end of the piston in ATF just prior to install. He says it helps dissolve the gunk in the ring grooves that you can't really get to mechanically. Makes sense to me. Everything else (bearing/journal, lifters, timing gears) that is where moving parts touch was slathered in assembly lube.
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Jeff Zepp
Kittredge CO USA
1971 & 1976 FJ40s, 1978 FJ45, 1987 FJ60
Rising Sun 4WD Club, TLCA #4063
http://american3dprinting.net/

Last edited by Rzeppa; 08-01-2006 at 06:14 PM.
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  #4  
Old 06-19-2006, 05:32 PM
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Here's a view of the lifters. About four of them needed to be tapped in, the rest slid in. I hope this works out okay. The lifters are out of the 71 since the cam was also. The cam from the 72 was rusted, had an under-spec lobe and had excessive thrust at the end plate.
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Jeff Zepp
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1971 & 1976 FJ40s, 1978 FJ45, 1987 FJ60
Rising Sun 4WD Club, TLCA #4063
http://american3dprinting.net/
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Old 06-19-2006, 05:35 PM
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Here's a view of the cylinder walls from the 71 block, which is why I used the 72 block. I didn't want to have to spend machine money if I didn't have to, plus spending big $$$ on a set of oversize pistons. The top photo is cylinder #2, the bottom one is number 3.
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Kittredge CO USA
1971 & 1976 FJ40s, 1978 FJ45, 1987 FJ60
Rising Sun 4WD Club, TLCA #4063
http://american3dprinting.net/
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Old 06-19-2006, 05:40 PM
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And here's why the walls were so fragged. There were broken rings in both engines, mainly the top compression rings. Some were worse than others, but there were only a couple pistons with a complete set of rings intact. BTW, I always knew that F engines had 4 rings, but I didn't realize that the second oil control ring (3rd ring from the top) consist of four separate parts, and the second compression ring has two parts, an internal expander and then the ring itself. That means for a set of 6 pistons, you have 48 rings to install! These rings are both out of the 71, and correspond to the cylinders in the photos above.
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Kittredge CO USA
1971 & 1976 FJ40s, 1978 FJ45, 1987 FJ60
Rising Sun 4WD Club, TLCA #4063
http://american3dprinting.net/
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Old 06-19-2006, 05:41 PM
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This was the worst piston from the 72:
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1971 & 1976 FJ40s, 1978 FJ45, 1987 FJ60
Rising Sun 4WD Club, TLCA #4063
http://american3dprinting.net/
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  #8  
Old 06-19-2006, 05:49 PM
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Here is the head shortly after I installed all the valves. I had already given the head off the 72 away to Jerry Nichols, and gave the oil pan to Ige, so I didn't have either of those parts to work with. In any case, the valves and guides from this head were in decent shape. I thoroughly cleaned each valve, then lapped them according to the Haynes Manual. The FSM says to cut the seats and grind the valves, but I looked into cutting kits on the internet and they ranged from $500 to over $1500. So I did it the Haynes way. The seats turned out really nice, and they seem to seal really well. I started out using one of those suction cup doohickies to twirl the valves with the lapping compound, but quickly discovered that was very time consuming, about a half hour per valve. I then tried another technique which worked like a charm: I chucked the valve stem into my cordless drill, and it cut the time down to a matter of minutes to lap each valve. I think I mentioned in a post above that those little keeper halfs that hold the spring retainer to the valve stem are a total PITA. They are really little and you have to get them on just right while you are compressing the spring with the special spring compressor. I used assembly lube to hold them to the valve stems, but grease would probably do the same trick.

I've never completely done a head before. In the past I would just yank it off the engine, drop it off and have it redone, then pick it up after a walletectomy. I'm trying to do pretty much all of this myself, save $$ and learn a lot.
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Jeff Zepp
Kittredge CO USA
1971 & 1976 FJ40s, 1978 FJ45, 1987 FJ60
Rising Sun 4WD Club, TLCA #4063
http://american3dprinting.net/

Last edited by Rzeppa; 06-19-2006 at 09:38 PM.
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  #9  
Old 06-19-2006, 06:03 PM
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I spent a LOT of time cleaning parts on these engines, probably 60-80 hours total. Much of the exterior was with a toothbrush and solvent, then follow up with a wire wheel, interior parts mostly in my parts sink. Getting all the carbon out of the combustion chambers was loads of fun (NOT!). I mainly used various sizes of wire wheels. When I was done, I went back into the house and walked past a darkened window and saw my reflection. I wasn't sure what was going on, so I went and looked in a mirror, and my face was so black that it looked like I had been working in a coal mine!

BTW, before I really started on the head I cleaned the surface that mates with the block and checked for flatness with a 2 foot steel straight edge, I couldn't find any warpage in any direction. I also checked for cracks under magnification since I don't have any magnaflux, but it looked fine, and I had no indication that there was going to be a problem. As far as I know, this head has never been overheated. The 72 on the other hand had a blown head gasket, but that wasn't the head I was working with anyway.
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Kittredge CO USA
1971 & 1976 FJ40s, 1978 FJ45, 1987 FJ60
Rising Sun 4WD Club, TLCA #4063
http://american3dprinting.net/
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Old 06-19-2006, 08:04 PM
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Default What is this port for?

I was installing things that go on the manifold side of the block, such as the oil pressure bypass, oil pressure sender and oil filter return and got stumped. This port is present on the 72 F block, but neither 71 F blocks or either my 76 2F block or my 78 2F block. It seems to dump straight into the oil pan, as the oil filter return does. I would guess it's supposed to be plugged up? What's up with a 72 F block that's different than 71 F blocks and 76 and 78 2F blocks? I couldn't quite figure out the threads either. They are 10mm, but neither a 10x1.50 nor 10x1.25 would fit, nor would a 10x1.00 brake bleeder. I tried one of the oil line fittings and it didn't thread up cleanly, but the fitting in my hand did. The threads seem similar to 1/8 NPT, but I don't want to bugger them finding out. I looked high and low for fittings that might fit, but don't know what this port is for.

The photo at the top is the 72 block I am building, the photo below is the 71 block, showing an absence of the port.
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1971 & 1976 FJ40s, 1978 FJ45, 1987 FJ60
Rising Sun 4WD Club, TLCA #4063
http://american3dprinting.net/
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