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  #51  
Old 11-12-2011, 10:22 AM
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5D17 = April 17, 1985.

The list I was referring to was just a suggestion for your own benefit, to make sure you have everything.

My concern with the headers is that they fit too tight to the block to allow the EGR cooler to fit between them and the block.
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  #52  
Old 11-12-2011, 03:48 PM
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The EGR tube? Yeah, now that you mention it, it will be more than likely a tight fit. Looks like I'm headed back to work before I really have a chance to put anything into the 40, I fly out on Monday. I've attached a picture of the throttle linkage, I've been trying to get these clean for the last few days along with cleaning and painting the air cleaner. Small steps it seems..
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  #53  
Old 11-17-2011, 12:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subzali View Post
On the bolts, Toyota uses JIS bolts, which have finer thread pitches and smaller heads than most other types of metric fasteners. Some folks have had luck at Fastenal finding these
JIS have the same thread pitches as DIN/ISO. The only difference is in the hex dimensions. Most hardware stores only sell DIN/ISO, which will have 13mm hexes for an M12 fastener, etc. I buy mine in the 100 lot from Fastenal; they have outlets all over town. I also buy extensively from Stevinson West.
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  #54  
Old 11-17-2011, 12:26 PM
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You're right Jeff, what I meant was that JIS fasteners typically use the finer thread pitch as compared to other "standard" thread pitches. See here:
http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-in...ead-Pitch.aspx
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1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, Metric TLC leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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  #55  
Old 11-19-2011, 09:07 PM
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Any smog pump experts out there? I have one I scooped up from mud and I'm curious if it needs to be rebuilt. Any good ways to tell? I turn it and it turns easily but makes a small scraping sound, from what I've read this is fairly normal. Any thoughts?
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2010 4Runner Trail 3" Lift, UCAs, and 285 Goodyear Duratracs

1982 FJ40 Green 4" Rough Country Lift, RE-smogged, and getting better every day! (Mid - Resto)

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  #56  
Old 11-23-2011, 12:38 PM
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Adam, I wouldn't say I'm an expert but I have had plenty of good pumps and plenty of bad ones. The bad ones usually get siezed in my experience, and good ones turn freely and make a thoooomp thoooomp sound each time the vane passes by the hill inside. You should be able to feel a little breeze on your face each time it passes when you turn it by hand and point the outlet to your face.

The manual actually has wear spec for the vanes inside.
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  #57  
Old 11-23-2011, 01:30 PM
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Yeah, I'm not really sure what the spec is for a good one, but the ones I've had that were on vehicles that passed emissions made a nice breeze on my face like Jeff said. That was with a hand flick.
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  #58  
Old 11-23-2011, 10:16 PM
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Well, I gave the pump a few turns when I was home, but didn't feel much of a breeze. I'll have to look into it more. Is there a local shop that rebuilds them?

On another note, I have come across another situation I'd like some input on. Earlier in this thread I mentioned that I'd like to go back to the original wagon wheel look, so through mud I found 5 FJ60 chrome wheels and like a few others have, decided to get them powder coated white. So, I throw all 5 of them in the truck and grab my bezel and head to a local powder coating place. (I've decided to avoid naming the business until the situation is resolved) I pick my color and they tell me it won't be any problem at all and away I go. About a week later I get a voicemail from them saying that ran into some problems during the baking process. I send my girlfriend over there with a camera to take a look. (I am currently working in ND) Well apparently something "bubbled" up between the two parts of the wheel and ruined the coating. I've attached pictures to better explain what happened. A little more detail. They didn't sand blast the chrome off, I was told that if the chrome was in good shape (4 out of the 5 were pristine, the 5th a little rusty) they would just "Scotch-Brite" them and the powder would stick fine. They mentioned this was standard procedure and not to worry. Well, I am not happy with the work and after calling them yesterday they ground off the bubbles and re-shot them but the same thing happened in the oven. So, I told the guy I'd call him back once I figured out what to do. He thinks that there is bondo in the crack, which I figured wasn't true at all. The only thing I can think to tell them is to at least blast the face of the wheel and the crack to really get whatever is in there out. Thoughts?
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  #59  
Old 11-23-2011, 10:33 PM
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Either they are putting a ton of powder on there or there is something in the seam between the wheel center and the rim.. Mine have much more of a gap there, something that would catch a a sheet of paper if you tried to stick it in there. What did it look like before you dropped them off? Was ther a fillet there?
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  #60  
Old 11-23-2011, 11:13 PM
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Marco-
Besides inspecting for bad chrome and rust I didn't look at the gap too much. I'm not sure what you mean by fillet..
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Adam Farmer

2010 4Runner Trail 3" Lift, UCAs, and 285 Goodyear Duratracs

1982 FJ40 Green 4" Rough Country Lift, RE-smogged, and getting better every day! (Mid - Resto)

email: adamkingf5371 at yahoo.com
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