Rising Sun Member Forums  

Go Back   Rising Sun Member Forums > Toyota 4x4 > General Tech Forum

Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old 11-12-2015, 03:11 PM
coax's Avatar
coax coax is offline
Hard Core 4+
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Estes Park
Posts: 726
Default Correct way to tap reverse light wire?

I have replaced my backup light bulbs with 7w led's a while back with disappointing results. I have an extra 18w wide led light that I mounted on my bumper and need to figure out how to power it. I'd rather not run a new wire from the battery and install a relay, so was wondering if there is a "correct/acceptable" way to tap into the reverse wire in the rear quarter panel?

I think with replacing the original bulbs with 7w bulbs I have sufficient spare capacity to add in the extra light on the original circuit. Cutting the wire and then using a butt splice with two wires on one end seems like it would work but maybe not the correct way? I know I don't want one of those blue clamp on things that always seem to corrode. Is there a good way to tap into a wire?
__________________
-Corey
'97 lx450, 170k, factory lockers, ome 850/863, 285's, 4 working doors(1 more than the old fj55 )
'74 project pig (sold)
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 11-12-2015, 03:18 PM
DanS's Avatar
DanS DanS is offline
Rising Sun Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Dumont
Posts: 881
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by coax View Post
I have replaced my backup light bulbs with 7w led's a while back with disappointing results. I have an extra 18w wide led light that I mounted on my bumper and need to figure out how to power it. I'd rather not run a new wire from the battery and install a relay, so was wondering if there is a "correct/acceptable" way to tap into the reverse wire in the rear quarter panel?

I think with replacing the original bulbs with 7w bulbs I have sufficient spare capacity to add in the extra light on the original circuit. Cutting the wire and then using a butt splice with two wires on one end seems like it would work but maybe not the correct way? I know I don't want one of those blue clamp on things that always seem to corrode. Is there a good way to tap into a wire?
The best way to do it (and the way I do) is to remove the pin that corresponds to that wire from the plug nearest it, then simply remove the insulation from a section of the wire. Then splice the additional wire onto the un-insulated section of wire, solder the wires together, and then slide heat shrink over the joint (this is why you removed the pin).

Doing it that way leaves the original wire intact (minus the insulation), and solidly connects the additional wire to the original.

Dan
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 11-12-2015, 04:22 PM
SteveH SteveH is offline
Hard Core 4+
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Colo Springs
Posts: 1,561
Default

After soldering, you can also apply silicone grease to the soldered joint (and surrounding wire/insulation) before heat-shrinking the tubing, which seals the splice in grease, inside the tubing.

If you drive in the winter, all your wiring is undergoing a salt bath on snowy days.
__________________
Steve H.
Colo Springs, CO
'78 FJ40, '89 FJ62, '98 4Runner
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 11-12-2015, 04:41 PM
DaveInDenver's Avatar
DaveInDenver DaveInDenver is offline
Hard Core 4+
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Larimer County
Posts: 7,271
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveH View Post
After soldering, you can also apply silicone grease to the soldered joint (and surrounding wire/insulation) before heat-shrinking the tubing, which seals the splice in grease, inside the tubing.

If you drive in the winter, all your wiring is undergoing a salt bath on snowy days.
They make special heat shrink for harsh environments. I use it when I do splices or repairs underneath. We get the 3M EPS-200 and EPS-300 here at work, but there are others. It's a polyolefin, so it doesn't shrink a ton (about 2:1), but it's got a heat-activated goo lining the inside that bonds with most types of insulation and coats the connection. It's highly resistant to typical solvents and salts, it's used specifically in marine and similar environments. It's not really that expensive, usually about $10 for a 4 foot length.

You could use it over the Scotchloc/Snap-Lock dealies to prevent them from corroding, too. Although they still tend to eventually cut the strands and break when flexed.
__________________
'91 Pickup - Imelda
'08 Tacoma TRD - Donna
'09 Kawasaki KLR650
'12 Gunnar Rockhound 29

"Our task must be to free ourselves from this prison by widening our circle of compassion to embrace all living creatures and the whole of nature in its beauty. Nobody is able to achieve this completely, but the striving for such achievement is in itself a part of the liberation and a foundation for inner security. " --Albert Einstein
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 11-12-2015, 06:53 PM
Squishy!'s Avatar
Squishy! Squishy! is online now
Vice Commander
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Littleton, CO
Posts: 1,837
Default

This is a great article

http://www.doofclenas.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=139041
__________________
-Justin Morgan,

TLCA #23166

"Squishy"-1988 Red Hilux Standard frame, X-tra cab, locked F&R, 5.29's, 35" tires and a SAS. In Moab STOLEN

"Apollo"-1988 Hilux, 1999 3.4L, Supercharged, 2.1" URD pulley, URD 7th injector, 2 1/2" Magnaflow exhaust, TO DO: lift, locker.

"RedChili"-1987 Super Beast

"Did you know the IFS was designed by Hitler himself to make the life of 4WD owners tough? Yeah, it's true, he saw a vision of the Devil and he told him to do it." -DaveInDenver
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 11-12-2015, 07:33 PM
DanS's Avatar
DanS DanS is offline
Rising Sun Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Dumont
Posts: 881
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Squishy! View Post
Yeah that is! What I described is the "tap solder" in this article. The "western union" joint is what I use when connecting two wires together. I did a few hundred of them on the faux-lux when I put the EFI engine from a RHD truck into the LHD truck. Zero problems with them, after another 350,000 miles of hard driving.

Good find on the article!

Dan
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 11-13-2015, 12:20 PM
Inukshuk's Avatar
Inukshuk Inukshuk is offline
Rising Sun Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 3,035
Default

I wrote a thread on this http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/back...ameras.803358/
__________________
Daniel Markofsky - Daniel@Markofsky.com KDGWR
Denver, Colorado, TLCA # 9972, http://risingsun4x4club.org/
1993 FZJ80 "enhanced", re-built Engine, and prototype GOBI Stealth roof rack
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 11-13-2015, 01:40 PM
PabloCruise's Avatar
PabloCruise PabloCruise is offline
Rising Sun Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Northern CO
Posts: 2,228
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Inukshuk View Post
Good stuff!
__________________
TJS KE0HHW

1978 FJ-40
1974 FJ-55 w/ 3FE

TLCA #10713

CO/WY Horsetooth 4 Wheelers Cruiser Club - Click Here!
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 11-13-2015, 02:19 PM
LARGEONE's Avatar
LARGEONE LARGEONE is offline
Rising Sun Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Broomfield, CO
Posts: 1,088
Default

Thanks for the links!
__________________
_______________________________
Paul
Horribly Painted '95 FZJ80 Has Some - Still Needs More!
"I drive an ECO-FRIENDLY FZJ80...It's got a salvage title which makes it a RECYCLED vehicle. Therefore, don't mess with me when I park in the "Reserved for Green Vehicle" spots in Boulder!!!
http://www.vrbo.com/322094
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 11-13-2015, 02:41 PM
coax's Avatar
coax coax is offline
Hard Core 4+
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Estes Park
Posts: 726
Default

Awesome thanks for the info and links everyone! Much appreciated. I think for my project I'll either try to strip back some of the wire in the rear quarter panel or pull the pin and try to solder directly onto it. Now just need a slightly warmer day!
__________________
-Corey
'97 lx450, 170k, factory lockers, ome 850/863, 285's, 4 working doors(1 more than the old fj55 )
'74 project pig (sold)
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:49 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.1
Copyright ©2000 - 2016, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.