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  #11  
Old 09-23-2011, 08:59 PM
frontrange frontrange is offline
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Apologies for the hijack, but since you seem to know about service panels, a quick question. My new, nearly $6K rotary compressor has tripped it's 30 amp breaker 3 times now. It's supposed to be 5Hp, by my math that's a tad under 20 amps. Bad breaker???


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Originally Posted by DaveInDenver View Post
Unlikely to matter, I doubt any municipality has adopted the 2011 NEC yet and the vast majority of 2005, 2008 and 2011 hasn't changed.

FWIW, a 20% or less duty cycle allows an arc welder to be supplied based on 0.45 multiplier to the plate rating. So if the welder is rated 45A that means you only need to size the branch for 21A and can use a breaker sized at 200% of the conductor rating. Just don't exceed 2 minutes of use every 10. Even at 50% duty you can use a 0.71 multiplier and use a 30A sized branch.
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  #12  
Old 09-24-2011, 08:35 AM
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Single copper run, about 15 foot long. I can't remember the gauge, it's whatever was listed for 30 amps with copper, 10ga I think? There is a plug, I thought a disconnect was a code requirement.
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  #13  
Old 01-02-2012, 11:55 AM
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Bringing this one back to the top... I have done a lot of reading and understand a lot more than I did a few months ago.

My run from my main box is about 60' (+/-10') and I have access to the basement joists as it is unfinished (now). I am trying to decide if I want to run a dedicated 50amp line to the garage or run a subpanel. I haven't needed my compressor and welder at the same time yet, and doubt I will in the future.

So what say you? Subpanel? Or a direct line?

If I run either, what gauge should I be looking at? I was thinking 8/3 or 6/3 romex for a dedicated line or sub panel. I had a friend who does a lot of remodeling suggest wiring the subpanel with aluminum then running copper for two circuits from a sub panel.

Is aluminum wiring a no-no or in this case is it acceptable? I am hoping to knock this out this week. If I can/should use aluminum to run the subpanel, what size should I be looking at and what size sub panel should I buy? I am thinking 50 or 60amp sub panel.

Thanks in advance-
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  #14  
Old 01-02-2012, 01:51 PM
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I would suggest a sub-panel and use copper. I did the same thing in my garage and am very happy with the solution. My primary panel was really full and having the sub-panel is helpful.
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  #15  
Old 01-02-2012, 02:52 PM
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Thats a good reason Jeff however, I have like 5 open spots on my main at this point and I can't imagine expanding any more than that. The house is pretty complete.
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  #16  
Old 01-02-2012, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rezarf View Post
Thats a good reason Jeff however, I have like 5 open spots on my main at this point and I can't imagine expanding any more than that. The house is pretty complete.
You can never have to many lights...
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  #17  
Old 01-02-2012, 06:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rezarf View Post
Bringing this one back to the top... I have done a lot of reading and understand a lot more than I did a few months ago.

My run from my main box is about 60' (+/-10') and I have access to the basement joists as it is unfinished (now). I am trying to decide if I want to run a dedicated 50amp line to the garage or run a subpanel. I haven't needed my compressor and welder at the same time yet, and doubt I will in the future.

So what say you? Subpanel? Or a direct line?

If I run either, what gauge should I be looking at? I was thinking 8/3 or 6/3 romex for a dedicated line or sub panel. I had a friend who does a lot of remodeling suggest wiring the subpanel with aluminum then running copper for two circuits from a sub panel.

Is aluminum wiring a no-no or in this case is it acceptable? I am hoping to knock this out this week. If I can/should use aluminum to run the subpanel, what size should I be looking at and what size sub panel should I buy? I am thinking 50 or 60amp sub panel.

Thanks in advance-
I agree with your remodeler. Run 6/3 w/ground aluminum cable - preferably from your panel, from the stove outlet box only if you have to-- and add a sub panel on the 50 amp breaker. Wire everything from there with copper (you're not going to find aluminum in any gauge under #8 anyway). #10 for 30 amp, #12 for 20 amp, and #14 for 15 amp

If your range outlet is not a 4 wire outlet, you can't legally power a sub panel from it because you have to use the same wire for neutral and ground, and won't be able to bond the panel properly.

You can't run off of the 50 amp outlet and put in two smaller outlets from it because your 20 amp air compressor would burn the wire and your house down before it tripped that 50 amp breaker, this is especially true if you have a Federal Pacific panel.

If you run conduit outside on the house, you cannot legally put Romex/ indoor type cable in the conduit, so you have to use individual conductors, and that gets expensive.

Confused yet? I suggest you call an electrical contractor

Panels are cheap, and very handy to have in the garage.

Luke - Colorado Master electrician #29754
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  #18  
Old 01-03-2012, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by black95 View Post
I agree with your remodeler. Run 6/3 w/ground aluminum cable - preferably from your panel, from the stove outlet box only if you have to-- and add a sub panel on the 50 amp breaker. Wire everything from there with copper (you're not going to find aluminum in any gauge under #8 anyway). #10 for 30 amp, #12 for 20 amp, and #14 for 15 amp

If your range outlet is not a 4 wire outlet, you can't legally power a sub panel from it because you have to use the same wire for neutral and ground, and won't be able to bond the panel properly.

You can't run off of the 50 amp outlet and put in two smaller outlets from it because your 20 amp air compressor would burn the wire and your house down before it tripped that 50 amp breaker, this is especially true if you have a Federal Pacific panel.

If you run conduit outside on the house, you cannot legally put Romex/ indoor type cable in the conduit, so you have to use individual conductors, and that gets expensive.

Confused yet? I suggest you call an electrical contractor

Panels are cheap, and very handy to have in the garage.

Luke - Colorado Master electrician #29754
Thanks, I have ruled out the 50amp stove line. Something in me hates knowing there is an UNUSED 50amp line already run halfway through the house. Bummer, but your points make total sense, and in the long run it seems hodge-podge.

I have settled on a sub-panel with aluminum wiring to the panel then a few copper lines from there.

6-3 with ground AL SER
To my subpanel
Copper lines from there.

Sound good?
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2001 Sequoia Limited with heated seats

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  #19  
Old 01-03-2012, 08:57 AM
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Drew you're welcome to come stare at my setup if you want, we have very similar situations.
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  #20  
Old 01-03-2012, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by nakman View Post
Drew you're welcome to come stare at my setup if you want, we have very similar situations.
REALLY?

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