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  #1  
Old 06-24-2006, 08:15 PM
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Default Don't know what to do next....

We have a 72 fj40 with F engine - just rebuilt.
New 180 degree thermostat
New 2F water pump with fan clutch and fan from a 60
Fan shroud is installed
13 lb radiator cap with release lever
We burped the radiator
New 4 core radiator
New oem head gasket, correctly installed.
After market electric water temp guage
After we start the engine, it takes less than 5 minutes to heat all the way up to 280.
I am totally out of ideas - is there anyone that can either shed some light on what the problem might be, or that can spend a little time helping us figure it out?
TIA, Max and Max's dad.
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1997 Honda civic DX( all stock DD)
1972 Toyota FJ40(4" lift, FJ60 axles, FJ60 4speed with split case, 35's, Detroit locker rear, Lockright front, Marlin Highsteer, 105"WB, Saginaw with GM tilt column, soon to have: 30spline longfields, inners/outters, toybox.
1967 Porsche 912(100% stock)


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Old 06-24-2006, 08:58 PM
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you were driving it for a while right? did this just start happening?

280 is with a mechanical gage?
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Old 06-24-2006, 10:00 PM
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You didn't mention anti-freeze, but I'm sure you used that.

The fan clutch might be bad?
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Old 06-24-2006, 10:00 PM
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It's always run hot, about the third mark on the mechanical guage - just installed the electric guage and verified that it was indeed hot. Seems like it may be a little warmer since we installed the new fan/clutch....

Quote:
Originally Posted by wesintl
you were driving it for a while right? did this just start happening?

280 is with a mechanical gage?
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1997 Honda civic DX( all stock DD)
1972 Toyota FJ40(4" lift, FJ60 axles, FJ60 4speed with split case, 35's, Detroit locker rear, Lockright front, Marlin Highsteer, 105"WB, Saginaw with GM tilt column, soon to have: 30spline longfields, inners/outters, toybox.
1967 Porsche 912(100% stock)


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Old 06-24-2006, 10:52 PM
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You said it was froma 60, is it new or used?
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Old 06-24-2006, 11:12 PM
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  • missing o-ring on top of the thermostat 2Fs have them, not sure about F
  • too much antifreeze
  • too lean
  • too rich
  • too far advanced
  • too far retarded
  • thermostat not opening or opening too soon
  • cavitation
  • blown headgasket
  • wrong headgasket
  • timing is 180° off
  • oiling problem
  • bad sender or wrong sender
  • no fan shroud
  • kinked hose
  • scale/blockage
  • defective water pump
  • loose fan belt
  • wrong or defective cam
  • miss adjusted valves
  • vacuum leaks
  • bad brake booster
  • choke not opening
  • blocked radiator internal or external
  • any kind of friction internally
  • heater hoses routed incorrectly
  • too much compression
  • low oil level
  • cracked block/head
  • fan not close enough to radiator some years had spacers
  • lead foot
  • assembly lube in oil
  • miss adjusted float level
  • defective fan clutch
  • defective radiator cap
  • restricted exhaust including that little flapper that usually is broken
  • cracked intake manifold
  • warped intake/exhaust manifolds or bad gasket
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Last edited by treerootCO; 06-25-2006 at 12:09 AM.
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Old 06-24-2006, 11:21 PM
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I heard that an upside down thermostate could do this. Can't remember if you can do that on a f or 2F though, been a while.
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Old 06-25-2006, 09:01 AM
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Couple of questions -
-about heater hose routing - does it matter which way the coolant flows through the heater core?
-how does the fan clutch work? I know that the clutch is filled with silicone and that when a certain temp is reached the little thermostat at the front forces the silicone, and tightens the fan onto the metal rod it's mounted on - but, the fan always seems to turn, regardless of the temperature - does it just go faster when it engages?
-what to do about a broken heat riser and missing flap?
Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by treerootCO
  • missing o-ring on top of the thermostat 2Fs have them, not sure about F
    o-ring is there
  • too much antifreeze
    50/50
  • too lean
    possible, but don't think so
  • too rich
    possible, but don't think so
  • too far advanced
    possible, but don't think so
  • too far retarded
    possible, but don't think so
  • thermostat not opening or opening too soon
    I tested it yesterday in a pan of boiling water with a thermometer - it's fine
  • cavitation
    not sure how to test for this
  • blown headgasket
    brand new oem installed correctly yesterday
  • wrong headgasket
    possible, but don't think so
  • timing is 180° off
    possible, but don't think so
  • oiling problem
    possible, but don't think so
  • bad sender or wrong sender
    brand new with new temp guage same issue with mechanical temp guage sender, which was also new
  • no fan shroud
    fan shroud installed
  • kinked hose
    nope
  • scale/blockage
    brand new radiator, head cleaned by machine shop, block inspected and cleaned
  • defective water pump
    brand new, older pump had same issues
  • loose fan belt
    nope
  • wrong or defective cam
    correct cam, possible that it's defective, but don't think so
  • miss adjusted valves
    valves adjusted by mechanic when preparing for emissions test
  • vacuum leaks
    possible, but don't think so
  • bad brake booster
    possible, but don't think so - new updated booster from a 4 runner, no leaks
  • choke not opening
    possible, but don't think so - carb inspected by mechanic
  • blocked radiator internal or external
    possible, but don't think so - new radiator
  • any kind of friction internally
    possible
  • heater hoses routed incorrectly
    see question at top
  • too much compression
    possible - will check
  • low oil level
    nope
  • cracked block/head
    nope
  • fan not close enough to radiator some years had spacers
    fan is about 3/4" from radiator
  • lead foot
    yep - but, heats up before we actually drive it
  • assembly lube in oil
    we've changed oil 5 times since rebuild
  • miss adjusted float level
    adjusted by mechanic
  • defective fan clutch
    Possible
  • defective radiator cap
    new and overheating happenned with older cap too
  • restricted exhaust including that little flapper that usually is broken
    possible - heat riser is broken - flap missing
  • cracked intake manifold
    not yet
  • warped intake/exhaust manifolds or bad gasket
    new gasket, don't believe there are any leaks
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1997 Honda civic DX( all stock DD)
1972 Toyota FJ40(4" lift, FJ60 axles, FJ60 4speed with split case, 35's, Detroit locker rear, Lockright front, Marlin Highsteer, 105"WB, Saginaw with GM tilt column, soon to have: 30spline longfields, inners/outters, toybox.
1967 Porsche 912(100% stock)


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  #9  
Old 06-25-2006, 09:04 AM
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I thought this was possible too, but we posted something on mud and Poser said no - we have it installed with the narrow end facing up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Romer
I heard that an upside down thermostate could do this. Can't remember if you can do that on a f or 2F though, been a while.
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1997 Honda civic DX( all stock DD)
1972 Toyota FJ40(4" lift, FJ60 axles, FJ60 4speed with split case, 35's, Detroit locker rear, Lockright front, Marlin Highsteer, 105"WB, Saginaw with GM tilt column, soon to have: 30spline longfields, inners/outters, toybox.
1967 Porsche 912(100% stock)


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Old 06-25-2006, 09:28 AM
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The heater comment was more about the oil cooler found on later 2F engines. You could connect it so there is no water flowing through it.

and......I don't trust most of the mechanics out there

I won't be around much for the next week or so but I could take a look at it after that. It is a lot easier to troubleshoot something if you can see and poke it a bit.
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“He who goes unarmed in paradise had better be sure that that is where he is.”—James Thurber
"Its better to be thought a fool rather than to speak up and remove all doubt." - Lincoln
pride is ego, the word I had lost was dignity. The quality or state of being worthy of esteem or respect.
Ptarmigan build thread - 95FZJ80
www.root45.com
www.risingsun4x4club.org

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