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  #11  
Old 12-02-2011, 04:48 PM
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  #12  
Old 12-02-2011, 05:18 PM
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Correct, The box on the passenger frame rail with the power steering lines is the box I got rid of. The two brake lines that went to it tied into the 3 way junction block behind the passenger front tire. Once the Box was gone, I just bent up a piece of line to connect where the two lines were removed... and then this whole thing came about

I can't remember how my '95 used to be plumbed, but I looked at my '88 truck's brakes and it plumbs out like the crappy diagram I drew. I think the '95 ABS box interrupted line A.

Still curious to me that the front and rear system is tied together. Did the rear need more pressure than the rear master cylinder circuit could provide, was this just a place to dump unwanted fluid from the proportioner vavle, or was this there to balance the system???

Whatever the reason, I'm not putting the factory LSPV vavle back in because those seem to go bad anyway, and I don't know how you would regulate the system if you changed it to a Tee and had two lines to the back of the truck.

I'm thinking the internal 'circuitry' in the master needs pressure somewhere it's not getting. Been a while since I took one apart, but it seems like the rear piston pushes the front through fluid pressure. Seems like the rear would have to harden up before the fronts would kick in.
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  #13  
Old 12-02-2011, 05:31 PM
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I'm thinking the internal 'circuitry' in the master needs pressure somewhere it's not getting. Been a while since I took one apart, but it seems like the rear piston pushes the front through fluid pressure. Seems like the rear would have to harden up before the fronts would kick in.
Yes, the rear piston starts before the front.
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  #14  
Old 12-02-2011, 06:01 PM
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Oh yeah, I thought about the pads being too far away from the drums, but they are for sure adjusted properly. Like I said, I have a hell of a time getting my drums off, and the dash mounted E-brake only pulls out about three inches. I think I'll take a drum off and ease into the pedal and see just how the pads are moving if I have time tonight.

I don't want to put the truck out of commission because this weekend and next weekend are our forest service volunteer weekends.

Please keep the ideas coming, I feel like there is some good knowledge with this group. The '79 - '95 tech forum guys had nothing
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-'88 pickup - Daily driver, AAL's, 285's, ARB bumper, Warn winch, all around cool rig.
-'01 cherokee - 6" Long arm'd, 285's, ARB bumper, custom roof rack, electric locked D30, auto locked 8.8, trussed-plated-fortified.
-'12 Jeep JK - 2" lift, Skid Row skidplates, OR fab bumper

KFWD
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  #15  
Old 12-02-2011, 06:04 PM
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the shoes don't have to move too much to take quite a bit of fluid. keep that in mind.
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  #16  
Old 12-02-2011, 07:04 PM
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Alright, installed a lever style wilwood proportioning valve from another project last night, bled it after getting home from work... no dice. Just pulled the rear drums off (had to back off adjusters) and checked for movement, there is no shortage of that. My little 75 pound daughter pushed the pedal to the floor, and those pads move a lot, and the drum surfaces are shiny to show pad contact. Proportional valve makes no difference.

I'm starting to think about the front brakes now. There is no visible residual valve on the front. My thoughts as of now:

1) the rears are working, but don't have strength.

2) the fronts are not pulling away from the rotors for lack of residual valve and are working TOO well, or coming on too soon, or they are getting all the pressure through the master because the lines are not plumbed the way toyota intended.

Thoughts? I'm a dumbass?
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-'88 pickup - Daily driver, AAL's, 285's, ARB bumper, Warn winch, all around cool rig.
-'01 cherokee - 6" Long arm'd, 285's, ARB bumper, custom roof rack, electric locked D30, auto locked 8.8, trussed-plated-fortified.
-'12 Jeep JK - 2" lift, Skid Row skidplates, OR fab bumper

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  #17  
Old 12-02-2011, 07:10 PM
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proportioning valve. It's a lever style 8 position wilwood. Dirt track car style!! Yeah.... still don't work

That disconnected line is the factory line, the new line comes off the valve and bends around back under and down to the frame, can't really get a good shot of that.

Soooooo frustrating! This should be working!!!!
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-'88 pickup - Daily driver, AAL's, 285's, ARB bumper, Warn winch, all around cool rig.
-'01 cherokee - 6" Long arm'd, 285's, ARB bumper, custom roof rack, electric locked D30, auto locked 8.8, trussed-plated-fortified.
-'12 Jeep JK - 2" lift, Skid Row skidplates, OR fab bumper

KFWD
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  #18  
Old 12-02-2011, 07:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by black95 View Post
Alright, installed a lever style wilwood proportioning valve from another project last night, bled it after getting home from work... no dice. Just pulled the rear drums off (had to back off adjusters) and checked for movement, there is no shortage of that. My little 75 pound daughter pushed the pedal to the floor, and those pads move a lot, and the drum surfaces are shiny to show pad contact. Proportional valve makes no difference.

I'm starting to think about the front brakes now. There is no visible residual valve on the front. My thoughts as of now:

1) the rears are working, but don't have strength.

2) the fronts are not pulling away from the rotors for lack of residual valve and are working TOO well, or coming on too soon, or they are getting all the pressure through the master because the lines are not plumbed the way toyota intended.

Thoughts? I'm a dumbass?
If the proportioning valve you just installed in only on one circuit it will only change the flow rate. If you use an aftermarket one it would need to in corporate both circuits! Like for example this one....

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I need an FJ40....
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Cruisers are superior
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  #19  
Old 12-02-2011, 07:22 PM
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Do the same thing you did with your daughter pushing the pedel. And the drums off. Now doing that push the pads back in while she's pushing. Trying to keep them from moving. Do the brakes win the fight or do you win the fight ?

If you win then you have a leaking seal somewhere
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  #20  
Old 12-02-2011, 07:54 PM
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Man, if I can't get a standard brake system to work, I'll never get that damn thing to work... Looks like I'd have to re plumb the whole rig. I'm going to poke around some other rigs tomorrow on the outing. Particularly curious how the FJ60's are plumbed, and I know damn well my FJ40 is plumbed straight off the rear port, I'll use and FJ40 MC if I have to by God...
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-'88 pickup - Daily driver, AAL's, 285's, ARB bumper, Warn winch, all around cool rig.
-'01 cherokee - 6" Long arm'd, 285's, ARB bumper, custom roof rack, electric locked D30, auto locked 8.8, trussed-plated-fortified.
-'12 Jeep JK - 2" lift, Skid Row skidplates, OR fab bumper

KFWD
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