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  #21  
Old 12-02-2011, 10:15 PM
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My 60 is plumbed exactly like this:

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Originally Posted by Uncle Ben View Post
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  #22  
Old 12-02-2011, 10:20 PM
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how are you bleeding it ? you could have a air bubble in it..
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  #23  
Old 12-04-2011, 07:48 AM
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I looked at an FJ60 braking system yesterday and now I know what everyone was talking about with the combination valve under the master cylinder. I see now that this is my next route. Although, the 60 I looked at only had one line running down to the axle, so that is not going to work with my setup, I guess I could put a tee under it, but I would rather go aftermarket, since all of those valves I can get my hands on are 30 years old. Thanks for all the input, I think (hope) this will resolve my woes. Off to spend more money! I'll let you know how it turned out.
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  #24  
Old 12-19-2011, 12:12 AM
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Even though I said I wouldn't do it, I sourced a brake combination valve from an FJ60. Have a friend in the CLC club that happens to have an old parts 60 behind his house, so I picked up the combo valve for the bargain price of a little beer. I decided on this because his FJ60 runs an FJ80 master cylinder with all stock lines and components, including a single line to the rear, with Stock 60 brakes up front, and GM calipers on the rear 14 bolt with a 2 pound residual valve. This setup is Exactly like mine, short of the drums in the rear. His brakes work great, you may have seen him on this year's Peterson's Ultimate Adventure video.

Unfortunately, I just got back from a test run on the very icy Rampart Range road, and the newly installed combo valve did absolutely nothing for my brakes. Not one ounce of braking from my rear end.

I'm gonna set this damn thing on fire.


I've had it... I quit... I'm done.... does anyone know an expert at this kind of thing? anyplace I can take this rig and NOT pick it up until the damn rear brakes work? I'm not talking about a guy you think might know a guy who may know a way... I'm talking about an EXPERT. Anyone, please?
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-'88 pickup - Daily driver, AAL's, 285's, ARB bumper, Warn winch, all around cool rig.
-'01 cherokee - 6" Long arm'd, 285's, ARB bumper, custom roof rack, electric locked D30, auto locked 8.8, trussed-plated-fortified.
-'12 Jeep JK - 2" lift, Skid Row skidplates, OR fab bumper

KFWD
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  #25  
Old 12-19-2011, 12:20 AM
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newly installed combo valve.
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-'88 pickup - Daily driver, AAL's, 285's, ARB bumper, Warn winch, all around cool rig.
-'01 cherokee - 6" Long arm'd, 285's, ARB bumper, custom roof rack, electric locked D30, auto locked 8.8, trussed-plated-fortified.
-'12 Jeep JK - 2" lift, Skid Row skidplates, OR fab bumper

KFWD
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  #26  
Old 12-19-2011, 08:46 AM
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Yours has a residual valve? I didn't think I read that it does.

I am not sure who to point you to unfortunately, I am sure folks here know.
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  #27  
Old 12-19-2011, 09:17 AM
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Sorry that several of us are orwere onlybe SASE trained and certified and not proclaimed expert! Maybe you should call a radio show expert hotline!
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I need an FJ40....
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  #28  
Old 12-19-2011, 09:57 AM
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Lol. Wasn't referring to the mud community, I've just had too many people tell me to take it to brakes plus... yeah, right. I didn't know you were sase certified, wanna fix this for me?
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-'88 pickup - Daily driver, AAL's, 285's, ARB bumper, Warn winch, all around cool rig.
-'01 cherokee - 6" Long arm'd, 285's, ARB bumper, custom roof rack, electric locked D30, auto locked 8.8, trussed-plated-fortified.
-'12 Jeep JK - 2" lift, Skid Row skidplates, OR fab bumper

KFWD
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  #29  
Old 12-19-2011, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by black95 View Post
Lol. Wasn't referring to the mud community, I've just had too many people tell me to take it to brakes plus... yeah, right. I didn't know you were sase certified, wanna fix this for me?
Hmmmm....looks like auto correct on my phone hacked up my post pretty good. ASC would have been the correct acronym thank you!

Have you tried a very simple test of swapping the MC output lines port to port? Marco has a good reference to residual valves. A residual valve is in place on drum brake systems to help keep the peddle stroke shorter by maintaining a residual pressure (2-3psi) in the line to prevent the return springs from completely compressing the wheel cylinder each time the brakes are released. If your M/C is from a disk/disk setup it most likely does not have residual valves. If you can swap ports and nothing changes I think Marco gets the trophy!
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I need an FJ40....
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Cruisers are superior
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  #30  
Old 12-19-2011, 02:39 PM
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Hmmm.... Interesting. I always thought residual valves were only for disks. I am running a disk/disk FJ80 master cylinder. That may very well make a difference. Seems like pumping the pedal would eventually make the brakes come on, I will have to try that.

Last night, I was running about 15 MPH and put both feet and my 275 punds of weight as hard as I could on that dang pedal, and nothing to the rear, pretty scary because that front end does nothing to stop this truck.

Keep the ideas coming! I love you guys man!
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-'88 pickup - Daily driver, AAL's, 285's, ARB bumper, Warn winch, all around cool rig.
-'01 cherokee - 6" Long arm'd, 285's, ARB bumper, custom roof rack, electric locked D30, auto locked 8.8, trussed-plated-fortified.
-'12 Jeep JK - 2" lift, Skid Row skidplates, OR fab bumper

KFWD
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