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  #11  
Old 01-04-2012, 09:50 AM
SteveH SteveH is offline
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I'm not sure the CCoT (or '555') kit is horrible, but the bottom oil seal doesn't fit, and I have typically mixed/matched the OEM and replacement parts in the kit until I got a tight, smooth fit. I agree that the kit is lame as engineered/sold. I didn't recall the top spring being weak, but it wouldn't surprise me.

I didn't remove the bottom arm piece - you can disassemble and clean it all from the top pretty well. Don't make extra work for yourself.

Also, check the drag link end socket where the drag link attaches to the pitman arm coming out of the steering box. The screwdriver-slotted screw should be removed, cleaned, greased, and tightened.
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  #12  
Old 01-04-2012, 09:57 AM
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PabloCruise PabloCruise is offline
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That drag link end can use the "two cents" trick if it is tightened all the way in and still has slop. You can drop a penny on each end of the link to tighten things up!
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  #13  
Old 01-23-2012, 01:00 PM
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Rzeppa Rzeppa is offline
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X2 on the CCOT kit being lower quality. Their bushing just isn't as good as OEM. You can't truly rebuild it without taking the arm off the bottom, that's the only way to remove the cone shaped center part to replace it. A pickle fork works good.
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  #14  
Old 01-24-2012, 09:35 AM
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Air Randy Air Randy is offline
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Or, pull all of that crap off, drop it in the lake for a boat anchor and do a conversion to a saginaw steering gear. Good power steering with no slop using inexpensive parts.
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  #15  
Old 01-26-2012, 09:25 PM
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farnhamstj farnhamstj is offline
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Once again I totally agree with Randy.
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  #16  
Old 01-31-2012, 12:59 PM
trucruiser trucruiser is offline
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Dont forget the rag joint. That is also a major contributor for sloppy steering in these old trucks.
http://www.sor.com/sor/products2.tam...e%23%2Ectx=098
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