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  #11  
Old 02-29-2012, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Red_Chili View Post
DOH! Just did some research... high vacuum equals lower fuel pressure, low vacuum equals higher fuel pressure, boost equals the highest. Now it is REALLY sounding like fuel rail. And something that needs immediate attention if I want to avoid roasted chili.
Sorta. You're running stock stuff so your stock fuel pressure reg bypasses fuel back to the tank when you have vacuum this dropping the line pressure in the rails. Under throttle open ( low or no vacuum) your regulator limits the fuel returning to the tank.(higher line pressure) Unless you have a rising rate fuel reg (you don't) the regulator is quite simple (dumb). Rising rate regs are linear and adjustable so you can tune them and they will gradually increase the pressure as vacuum drops and boost begins. Also, it sounds like you are using the stock 22re fuel pump so your pressure can only build if you have a surplus of fuel available. So sorta. Unfortunately, the SC hides the left side rail. I would suggest getting the o-rings, seals and plenum gasket and spend a couple hours to be sure. It would suck if your suspicions are true and while roasted chilies are good I think your variety is better just hot and not roasted!
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  #12  
Old 02-29-2012, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by TIMZTOY View Post
agreed

hmmmm roasted chilies :-)

have you had the ECM re-flashed ? If I'm not mistaken, that is part of the supercharger install and done at the dealer
Unaware of any reflash. Wasn't in the instructions at all (and remember this is the first gen of 5VZ ECMs so it is rather dumb).
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  #13  
Old 02-29-2012, 01:28 PM
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Sorta. You're running stock stuff ...
Roger dodger on the stock 22RE fuel pump. I spoke to Scotty at Addicted after seeing a post by him on this very issue on Yotatech I think. He never posted a resolution so I called him. He mentioned lots of guys run the 22RE pump with no issues. AFR is in the low 12s on full throttle/boost so it ain't starvin'.

Turns out lots of guys have a fuel smell if the vacuum gauge hose develops a leak or is not tight at the gauge or tee. Why that would make a fuel smell is a real headscratcher... I would think fuel would stay where it should and something else might be going on... but oh well. More than one has fixed it that way, and that was Gadget's post on the topic, and I know far less than he.

Scotty's was solved by him doing a whole lot of stuff so he wasn't sure which was exactly the source. The more we talked, the more I began to think about Mike's fuel line union that was giving me grief prior to the S/C. I managed to get it tight enough to no longer seep, but I think the union might not be all that good. If the S/C actually effectively increases the fuel pressure on boost, I can see it behaving just like I am experiencing. I think I just need to spend some quality time underneath with some leak detector spray, then go drive around. I might tighten or bypass the vaccuum/boost gauge too just for grins and giggles.

I have had at least one situation where, after climbing the canyon on boost and parking in the garage, the garage smelled like fuel that evening. Again, makes me wonder about that union. Easy enough to check.

He thought the idle might be due to a leaky check valve in the IAC vacuum line (the one you have to add with the S/C). $6 part so that is worth pursuing.
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Old 02-29-2012, 01:29 PM
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I learned the hard way (leaks) to only use genuine Toyota injector o-rings between the injectors the fuel rail. The cheapies from Advanced Auto lasted about 1 week before leaking. I got the fuel smell from seepage at each injector.
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Old 02-29-2012, 01:40 PM
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Chili, The v hose leak makes sense.....never thought about that. It's a direct plenum port so it has vacuum at no boost and pressure at boost. However, fuel is direct injected and not even close to that port????? Nothing smells as strong as raw fuel and raw fuel on the intake manifold is a real serious issue. If you suspect an injector leak I would deal with it FIRST and rule it out! Easy enough job to do....just have new part on hand first.
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  #16  
Old 02-29-2012, 01:54 PM
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Yeah... OK, I am persuaded. I keep having day nightmares of tragedy... seen too many toasted vehicles on the side of the road and leaky injectors are the likely culprit. Less than $70 at Stevinson with the RS discount so placing the order now...

Even before testing out the theory, it just makes sense to replace rubber seals on fuel pressure systems that are 16+ years old... even if it turns out to be something else.

Thanks all, will report back.
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  #17  
Old 02-29-2012, 02:26 PM
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Yeah... OK, I am persuaded. I keep having day nightmares of tragedy... seen too many toasted vehicles on the side of the road and leaky injectors are the likely culprit. Less than $70 at Stevinson with the RS discount so placing the order now...

Even before testing out the theory, it just makes sense to replace rubber seals on fuel pressure systems that are 16+ years old... even if it turns out to be something else.

Thanks all, will report back.
I have a set of stock 3.4 injectors if you want to send them off to get cleaned. Yours for the asking.
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I need an FJ40....
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Cruisers are superior
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  #18  
Old 03-01-2012, 11:04 AM
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WOW... you bet, bud. Great idea. Maybe pick them up at the meeting?
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  #19  
Old 03-12-2012, 11:12 AM
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Well, missed the connection with UB... so I just pulled my injectors. Things seemed dry in the valley... if you take my meaning. No fuel staining.

I did notice, however, that the *&@%#$@! vacuum line I used from the FPR to the tee for the vacuum/boost gauge to the supercharger was hard and slipped off easily. This fits with the web rumor that any leaks in this line will result in a fuel smell. I have no idea how that all works to produce a fuel smell... but... there you have it.

While I was taking things apart, I crossed the Rubicon and replaced the section of fuel line that Off Road Solutions used from the 3.0L fuel filter to the 5VZ engine-end fuel hose. They used a section of line from the donor vehicle, but used adapters to adapt adapters to adapters to get it to work.

One of those flare unions has been problematic in the past so I just grabbed some NAPA hard brake line in 5/16, cut off an end, replaced the connectors, and tried to make a double flare. Took about 4 times but finally made one I trust. Besides, I should carry a double flare tool on the trail. Just too many applications for it in an emergency.

Shoulda been done that way the first time!

I figure part of my difficulty in making the double flare was the tool I got from NAPA... a cheapie. Any advice or guidance here?
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  #20  
Old 03-12-2012, 11:21 AM
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Oh, yeah, and for the heck of it I sent the injectors off to WitchHunter.
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