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  #1  
Old 10-27-2014, 02:17 PM
BakdFresh2Day BakdFresh2Day is offline
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Default FJ60 in need of your help!

A Landcruiser needs your help!!!

My poor '85 FJ60 is in desperate need of some attention from anyone who can help. After years of patiently waiting for my return from travels across the country, my cruiser is in need of some fine tuning, specifically it needs the carburetor dialed in, and hopefully that is it.

I have replaced the entire fuel system (for the most part), including replacing the fuel tank, fuel pump, carburetor, filter, etc...due to the fact that it has been sitting since 2006. However, the mechanic that did the work gave the vehicle back without getting the fuel system dialed in. Lame I know and why I'm searching for help elsewhere.

So, after dropping pretty much all the funds I had available into the vehicle it is still not road worthy and dependable. I'm hoping that some kind Toyota loving soul that knows a thing or two about carburetors might be willing to help a fellow cruiser enthusiast out? I can compensate you with your choice of beverages and some great 4 wheeling stories and hope that will be enough for someone to help me out.

Despite friends and family pressuring me to sell the cruiser because they feel it is a "money pit", I refuse to part ways as this vehicle as it holds a special place in my heart.

Please Rising Sun Members, if you could find it in your heart to help a fellow Cruiser person out, I (and my cruiser) would be in your debt!

Many thanks and happy wheelin.

Mitchell
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  #2  
Old 10-27-2014, 02:27 PM
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AimCOTaco AimCOTaco is offline
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Post a picture for more sympathetic impact and let folks know where you are located.

What is the status right now? Does it run at all? What have you done recently to improve it? Any other known issues? Where were all these "new" parts sourced from?

What did the mechanic think it needed? Did the mechanic give up or did you have them stop?

It's definitely a money pit but that's no reason to give up, keep the info flowing and you may find a cheap/easy fix or you may plow further into the pit. Such is the life of a cruiserhead.
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Old 10-27-2014, 02:36 PM
BakdFresh2Day BakdFresh2Day is offline
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All great points! I'll make sure to get some pictures up asap.

Regarding the condition of the vehicle, I can get it running (with the help of some starter fluid) and it will work for awhile. When I tried to drive it, it tends to die when coming to a stop almost like it is not getting enough fuel to maintain idle.

The cruiser is located in Stapleton, CO (not far from Quebec and Montview) and if need be I can move it to another location.

Parts came from all over...

Saw another post about a Wrench Party which I thought was a great idea and wish I could have attended!
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Old 10-27-2014, 02:43 PM
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subzali subzali is online now
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Welcome to the forum, please post up your symptoms and we can try to help. Someone may be available to come give a hand in person too, depending on schedules.

Also check out this site, which has great info stored in the database (search), and friendly members all over the world willing to lend a helping hand.
http://forum.ih8mud.com/forums/60-series-wagons.27/
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Old 10-27-2014, 02:44 PM
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subzali subzali is online now
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If you can drive it around a bit, and if it dies when coming to a stop, get out and try to get a view of the fuel level inside the carburetor bowl (visible through the glass viewer on the front of the carburetor, but hard to see because it's under the intake and vacuum hoses).

Does the vehicle restart when this happens?
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1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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Old 10-27-2014, 03:08 PM
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AimCOTaco AimCOTaco is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subzali View Post
If you can drive it around a bit, and if it dies when coming to a stop, get out and try to get a view of the fuel level inside the carburetor bowl (visible through the glass viewer on the front of the carburetor, but hard to see because it's under the intake and vacuum hoses).

Does the vehicle restart when this happens?
^^^Great place to start. This will show you if the carb is getting good fuel delivery.

Knowing you did a major fuel system job as far as replacement parts leaves me wondering if all of the old chassis mounted fuel plumbing was properly cleaned out. Old fuel varnish can be a bear to remove. If it's still in the system your fuel filter may already be clogged so a few changes may be in your future.

Finding and watching the sight glass should be cheap and productive. Good luck!
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Andy | Longmont | TLCA#22354
-1999 UZJ100 -Black, GYDT285/75-16, Locked, WKOR sliders, TC UCAs/ Iron Man T-bars, OME866, D/T headers/Magnaflow, Columbus RTT, Drawers n'stuff.
-2001 Tacoma 2.7L Reg Cab 4x4 -Silver,my DD/trail truck, Icon/TC mid trav front, GYDT265/75-16C, Budbuilt Skids

-Kilo-Delta-Zero-Tango-Quebec-Tango-
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Old 10-27-2014, 04:01 PM
BakdFresh2Day BakdFresh2Day is offline
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All great points! I'll take it for a test drive hopefully tomorrow and see if I can jump out and view the sight glass to make sure it is getting enough fuel.

To that point, AimCoTaco you are probably onto something as the old chassis mounted fuel plumbing has not been touched and is most likely in bad shape. Any recommendation to clean them out? I have been through about 4 fuel filters since I got it operational and have put about 30 gal of fuel through it. Is it one of those things that I might just have to keep running it and let it flush itself out?

I still feel like the carburetor is not set up properly (probably my fault as I tried to tinker with it not knowing what the heck I was doing) Tried to adjust the fast idle as well as the fuel mixture ration.

Regarding when it dies when stopping, it will not restart even with pumping the gas pedal and/or pulling the choke lever. Seems to not want to start cold or hot unless it gets some starter fluid.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AimCOTaco View Post
^^^Great place to start. This will show you if the carb is getting good fuel delivery.

Knowing you did a major fuel system job as far as replacement parts leaves me wondering if all of the old chassis mounted fuel plumbing was properly cleaned out. Old fuel varnish can be a bear to remove. If it's still in the system your fuel filter may already be clogged so a few changes may be in your future.

Finding and watching the sight glass should be cheap and productive. Good luck!
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Old 10-27-2014, 04:22 PM
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subzali subzali is online now
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So do you have to get it towed after it dies while driving?

Start with the simple things. Fuel, Air, Spark.

-Check that there are no restrictions in air filter housing.
-Check that your timing is correct (you need it running for that). Check to make sure your distributor is not loose. *If for any reason you decide to remove the distributor, make sure it is fully seated when you go to re-install it because if you don't it can trash your engine because your engine will not get oil - the distributor gear drives the oil pump).
-Check that your cap and rotor are in good shape.
-Check that your spark plugs are in good shape. Check that you are getting good spark. There are probably FSM (Factory Service Manual - Haynes is an ok substitute if you are in a tough spot) tests for coil voltage and plug wire resistance.
-Check that you get a good strong squirt of fuel down the carb when you press on the accelerator (need the air cleaner off to see this). Check that your idle circuit solenoid (sometimes referred to as ICS) is clicking when your ignition is turned from off to on. This will allow fuel flow through the idle circuit. Check that your idle screw is screwed out somewhere between 1.5 and 2.5 turns (IIRC as a baseline).
-Check your fuel filter. You say you've gone through a couple. Were they completely clogged when they were replaced? If so then you probably have floaties that have worked their way through the system. You need to eliminate the source (with a new fuel tank the only likely suspect is the hard lines) and make sure your carb is clean.
-There is a screen on the inlet to the carb that is sort of the last ditch effort to keep junk out of it, maybe it's dirty and needs to be cleaned.
-Maybe your jets have ingested some junk. You can pull the plugs on the front of the carb body and let the float bowl drain, maybe that will get some of them out, but best bet is to do a carb rebuild. You can pick up a kit for about $40 I think and really go after it.
-After that, make sure you have no vacuum leaks like loose intake manifold hardware or loose carb mounting hardware.
-Carb setup isn't that hard, just be methodical and follow the steps here (or from a manual if you have it):
http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/carb-works-great.26635/

Keep us posted.
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1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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  #9  
Old 10-27-2014, 04:37 PM
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AimCOTaco AimCOTaco is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BakdFresh2Day View Post
...old chassis mounted fuel plumbing has not been touched and is most likely in bad shape. Any recommendation to clean them out? I have been through about 4 fuel filters since I got it operational and have put about 30 gal of fuel through it. Is it one of those things that I might just have to keep running it and let it flush itself out?
I was in this situation with a '64 jeep of mine and ended up draining the tank and then working through the rigid lines with pieces of piano wire. When I started it would pee through just enough to start but any real load required more fuel than the line could supply and it would die/clog filters. After doing the nasty it stayed clear, now I make sure to keep fresh fuel in there but this reminds me that it has been awhile...

Fuel starvation was where Subzali was going when suggesting you watch the carb bowl level. He's right when he says to check for the basics of Fuel + Air + Spark.

If you attempt cleaning any lines or draining the tank do be careful as I think that stuffs flammable. If it's not bad enough to be a root cause I would probably use lots of fuel system cleaner after you get it running right to slowly clean it without dislodging big chunks.
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-1999 UZJ100 -Black, GYDT285/75-16, Locked, WKOR sliders, TC UCAs/ Iron Man T-bars, OME866, D/T headers/Magnaflow, Columbus RTT, Drawers n'stuff.
-2001 Tacoma 2.7L Reg Cab 4x4 -Silver,my DD/trail truck, Icon/TC mid trav front, GYDT265/75-16C, Budbuilt Skids

-Kilo-Delta-Zero-Tango-Quebec-Tango-
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  #10  
Old 10-27-2014, 04:40 PM
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Rezarf Rezarf is offline
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How long did it sit? If you have a tank of bad gas in there you could be fighting an uphill battle. When was it last run reliably? When did you last add fresh fuel and how much? If you are clogging filters I'd start there.

Do you have a Haynes Manual or better yet Factory Manuals? These cars aren't hard to work on, but you do need proper guidance and the manuals can help with that.
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