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  #101  
Old 05-04-2014, 05:26 PM
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Default engine assembly continued

once I was satisfied with that,
I put the block half of the bearings in, lubed them up with a lot of lucas assembly lube

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I then carefully set the crank in..this junk's heavy

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I used the green plastigage (good from .001 to .003 inch) to measure clearance.

the 2f manual calls for No 1, 2, and 3 caps torqued from 90 to 108 and no. 4 torqued from 76 to 94 ft lb.

I split the difference on those two numbers, then pulled the caps and measured the plasticgage.

measurements:
#1 .0015"
#2 .001"
#3 .0015"
#4 .0025

the manual calls for (in inches) .0008-.0017" or .020-.044 mm

I'm worried that #4 is too far out ... but from reading I guess this is bearing manufacturer dependent ...
thoughts?

after that I cleaned up the main journals, and bearings of the plasticgage and reassembled with lucas assembly lube then and re-torqued.

I stayed in the middle of the road, but on #4 I torqued down to 90 ft-lb (still well within the range, but tighter than the plastigage round.

so here's how it sits ready to roll back into the corner for hopefully not that long.
I shrink wrapped the whole thing so I don't have to keep cleaning junk if it sits too long in my dust bowl garage.

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Last edited by simps80; 05-04-2014 at 06:00 PM.
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  #102  
Old 05-04-2014, 05:35 PM
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I also had about 2 boxes of cad plating done...

the stuff turned out pretty nice, too expensive won't be doing any more of that.

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so opinions on that #4 bearing question above are welcome.
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  #103  
Old 05-04-2014, 05:54 PM
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I also pulled the gear as previously mentioned,
then re-sealed the input and output with c-dan toyota oem seals.
surprised how much nicer the oem parts were than these leaking non-oem seals I pulled out of the box.

there's no slop in it so I just re-sealed it.

here's a picture just cause
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its all cleaned and painted up now back on the car
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  #104  
Old 05-04-2014, 06:49 PM
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you're doing that old 40 justice.
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  #105  
Old 05-05-2014, 07:02 AM
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The engine block is nice and clean and the plated parts look great.

Quote:
Originally Posted by simps80 View Post
...I'm worried that #4 is too far out ... but from reading I guess this is bearing manufacturer dependent ...
thoughts?
...
The difference on #4 would worry me - well at least I would want to really understand why it is out of spec. To my thinking, the large width would indicate the clearance is smaller and would restrict the amount of oil flow. Can/did you recheck at a few other (like each 90 degrees) places on the rotation of the crank? With the mains all in and torqued, how does the crank turn? It if is not smooth, now would be the best time to figure it out, DAMHIK.
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  #106  
Old 05-05-2014, 12:54 PM
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Thanks Ricardo,
I'll try it at every 90 degree like you suggested.

I also didn't test it at the higher torque of 90 ft lb
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  #107  
Old 05-05-2014, 01:43 PM
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I called Gunn too

toyota says .0008 to .0017

clevite says .0009 to .0044

so my .0025 is well within clevite's range but not within toyota's range ...

hmmm

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  #108  
Old 05-05-2014, 02:05 PM
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you should be fine, it's a 2f after all...
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Last edited by wesintl; 05-06-2014 at 03:00 PM.
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  #109  
Old 05-05-2014, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simps80 View Post
I called Gunn too

toyota says .0008 to .0017

clevite says .0009 to .0044

so my .0025 is well within clevite's range but not within toyota's range ...

hmmm

Interesting, I assume you have clevite bearings. As the measurement is within their spec., I would be comfortable proceeding. That said, I would also confirm the crank rotates smoothly with no binding/skips.

I know the F engine series employed shims for the mains and recall Jeff Zepp used them to get his main bearing clearances in spec when he was rebuilding the engine that is in Charlotte. I don't believe the shims were used on the 2F. If you really want to hit the spec, perhaps you could source a couple of F shims for the #4 cap and BAM be right in Toyota spec.
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  #110  
Old 05-05-2014, 07:53 PM
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Default engine assembly continued

ok I took # 4 off cleaned it up real good, found a couple little specs underneath the cap bearing

torqued it to 86 and had my girls who have much better eyes vote

its .0020 not .0025

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also re-orientated the engine stand so the the tube is more centered, so now the rear of the crank is not blocked by the mount...
this allowed me to put the main seal in after letting go of my ocd about #4

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now onto pistons, bought some 3/8" fuel line to cover the rod bolts

off to measure ring gap
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