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  #111  
Old 05-05-2014, 11:50 PM
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pistons are in

rod bearing clearances were all good just larger than the .051 mm plastigage marking

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this looks nice

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i was glad to make that progress..my "free time" is non-existent now a days
so its important to make progress when I can.

now shrink wrap time .. its likely another week before I have any time to work on it again
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  #112  
Old 05-06-2014, 11:31 AM
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Nice work Mike! Only just now seeing this latest stuff, busy with Moab stuff for some reason.

Anyhoo, here are some things to consider: You ALWAYs want the rear main a little looser (more clearance) than 1, 2 and 3 because it has a larger surface area. Like wise, you torque the bolts down less because they're smaller and there's 4 of them. Your 0.0020" should be just fine.

In the real world, your rod bearings are more critical (bolt torque and oil clearance) - they're always the ones to let loose when anything lets loose.

Finally, 2Fs DO NOT use shims, F motors do. When you add a shim, you increase the clearance. We had to add shims when we were assembling the F for my 71 because it was way too tight without any shims and you couldn't even turn the crank.
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  #113  
Old 05-06-2014, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rzeppa View Post
Nice work Mike! Only just now seeing this latest stuff, busy with Moab stuff for some reason.

Anyhoo, here are some things to consider: You ALWAYs want the rear main a little looser (more clearance) than 1, 2 and 3 because it has a larger surface area. Like wise, you torque the bolts down less because they're smaller and there's 4 of them. Your 0.0020" should be just fine.

In the real world, your rod bearings are more critical (bolt torque and oil clearance) - they're always the ones to let loose when anything lets loose.

Finally, 2Fs DO NOT use shims, F motors do. When you add a shim, you increase the clearance. We had to add shims when we were assembling the F for my 71 because it was way too tight without any shims and you couldn't even turn the crank.

so the rod torque spec is 35 to 55 ft lbs according to the 2f manual... why so large a range?
I picked 45 right in the middle ...
anything wrong with that?
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  #114  
Old 05-06-2014, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by simps80 View Post
so the rod torque spec is 35 to 55 ft lbs according to the 2f manual... why so large a range?
I picked 45 right in the middle ...
anything wrong with that?
I never noticed that before, but I do the same, middle of range.
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  #115  
Old 05-16-2014, 11:03 PM
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Default engine assembly continued

...got a little bit of time in the garage

got the front end plate (or crank case plate) or whatever other name put on.

used a little permatex sealer on both sides of the OEM gasket. I wouldn't have except the 2f manual actually called for it...

also used the later style tapered torx screws instead of the slotted screws. (torx screw part number 90149-10001)

some 2f's from reading seem to have shorter screws such that the newer torx screws are longer than the original slotted screws. Not the case here, the torx and originals were the same exact length.

"staked" them down in a manner that I think is good.

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I then lubed up the cam real good and sloppy then stabbed it with #6 at TDC, which was the most convenient to line up the timing marks (teq logo on OEM crank) and the dot on the new Melling Camshaft.

I staked the oil squirter in two places once I had the hole was straight down at the two gears

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Hope to get some more time Saturday at some point to get some more progress done.

Oh btw another lesson learned: when the powder coater coats the inside of the timing cover seal surface ... don't try to pound a seal in there...that little bit of powder coat is enough to not be able to get the front seal in without ruining it. I sanded out the powder on the inside seal surface, waiting on another crank seal now.
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  #116  
Old 05-17-2014, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simps80 View Post
waiting on another crank seal now.
I have several spares in the garage if you don't want to wait.
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  #117  
Old 05-18-2014, 12:10 PM
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I have several spares in the garage if you don't want to wait.
thanks Jeff,
won't need it, no time in the garage this weekend may ping you this week
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  #118  
Old 05-20-2014, 12:44 PM
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Default engine assembly continued... pump and pan question

the block i'm using is a 78 block

I have both styles of pumps, integrated pickup and the basket style pickup separate from the pump....

6/76 the pumps and pans changed part numbers...

so what I don't know is if the pan below is the later style pan or the earlier style pan ????.

I prefer to use the new style pump cause I have a new one but I don't want to use the 'wrong' pump for 'this' pan..

so is this the "right" pan for the newer style pump? I've searched extensively and can't find a good picture of new style and old style pumps to pan

'old' and 'new' style pumps:
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'old' style pickup
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the pan
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  #119  
Old 05-20-2014, 12:54 PM
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Mike, I don't know the answer with certainty, but recall baffle interferance is the issue that would occur with a mismatch. Did you install the new style pump and encounter clearance issues with the baffles of the oil pan?

For what its work, the drain plug on my oil pan is big, i.e. takes a 22mm wrench to remove and I have the old style pump and pickup.
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  #120  
Old 05-20-2014, 01:07 PM
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i haven't installed it yet, I guess I'll put the new pump on the block then see whats up with the pans...

I have 2 pans from presumably the two motors I took apart (i'm losing track of parts at this point)

and they are the same, the pans appear identical.

but the two oil pumps are different.

and the pans changed with the pumps from what I've read.

maybe i'll just try to bolt it together and see what's what

thanks Ricardo
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