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  #51  
Old 04-23-2013, 10:32 PM
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so...been staring at it for a year now, accumulating ...stuff...

found a complete 2f with a March of 76 production date, (serial number 080859), fits nicely with the May of 76 vehicle date.

Here it is:

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it was a bit rusty. it was cheap.
the guy said it has been sitting in his garage since the mid 80s.

so I took a chance on it...
put a spare hook on the rear to lift it so I could mount it on the stand...

finally found the right orientation of the plate and arms for the stand to fit nice and square and centered without hitting rear main housing etc.

its 12x1.75x80 times 4 plus 4 12mm flat washers per, between block and stands...

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as rusty as it was, I was worried it would be seized, but it cranked over perfectly with very very little pressure on the front nut so I was encouraged.

I was planning on pulling the head to have it gone through, then investigate what the inside looks like while the head was off....

I fought a lot of bolts removing all of the externals so I was a bit concerned what the inside will look like, but it turned over so nicely and the exhaust ports were puffing nicely.

I was more concerned when I pulled the valve cover .....
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  #52  
Old 04-23-2013, 10:40 PM
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I was even more concerned when it took a 36" cheater bar and a can of pb blaster to get the head bolt by #3 exhaust out...

but it eventually came out.

as it sits now I'm ready to take the head off everythings removed and ready to go, but the head has told me its not ready to come off yet.

I can literally lift the whole engine connected to the stand by the head with nothing mechanical attaching it to the block...!!!

we'll see, its soaking again tonight, i'll give her another shot tomorrow or thursday.

I would love to use this engine because its from a CA emissions 76 like the cruiser is, but if its not usable its not usable. I just have to think it is based on how easy it turns over....

we'll see.
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Old 04-24-2013, 08:16 AM
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It's not uncommon for heads to be difficult to remove. There are little slots on the side you can put a large screwdriver or pry bar and pry up or whack with a mallet. Hopefully you'll be golden after a head rebuild if the engine turns over smoothly.

It's also recommended to chase the head bolt threads in the block before reassembly. I'm sure you're already getting good help with this project though
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  #54  
Old 04-24-2013, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subzali View Post
It's not uncommon for heads to be difficult to remove. There are little slots on the side you can put a large screwdriver or pry bar and pry up or whack with a mallet. Hopefully you'll be golden after a head rebuild if the engine turns over smoothly.

It's also recommended to chase the head bolt threads in the block before reassembly. I'm sure you're already getting good help with this project though
before I lifted the engine by the head with all the bolts out (wow) I whacked it to death and used the side slot to pry extensively, but I haven't given up yet.
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Old 04-24-2013, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subzali View Post
It's also recommended to chase the head bolt threads in the block before reassembly. I'm sure you're already getting good help with this project though
It was mentioned to me and probably worth parroting, when you chase the head bolt threads use a thread chase, either a manufactured one or something you make, and not a tap. You don't want to remove any material you don't have to, especially from good threads.

I ended up making my own since all the tooling I had long enough were bottoming taps. I used a long 10.9 bolt, cut 3 slots along the length with a die grinder and ran it through a die to clean its threads. My 22R short block was factory new but I got a few small pieces of debris, although nothing more than dirt and paint.
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Old 04-24-2013, 10:03 AM
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Wow, great thread, great find!!
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  #57  
Old 04-24-2013, 11:39 PM
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Wow, great thread, great find!!
Thanks!

so I made some progress...after soaking over night with 2 cans of pb blaster and more lifting by the head and dead blows etc the head came off.
there was an astonishing amount of rust chunks and carbon chunks that I assume was just gluing it down.

I spent a good 3 hours cleaning it, taped off the hols, left the head bolts in
and this is where it stands with a crappy cell phone pic cause I broke the lcd on the nikon (14 dollars for new lcd on ebay...i love ebay...but I digress)

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  #58  
Old 04-24-2013, 11:56 PM
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I do have a problem that I would like input on though.

the pistons are all stamped ra2648 .075 then 0.04 UD

.075 converts from MM to .0295 inches so I'm assuming this is .30 over...searching on mud reveals that's true:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wa...mber-info.html

but I can't figure out 0.04 UD.

I care because number 3 has a gouge the radius of which matches the intake valve:

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so...I wonder if these are .04 "under height" to allow for block and head decking.

I would assume so, which then makes me ask why #3 got smacked..

so do you concur this is the valve contacting the piston? I think that's the only logical explanation for this shape and location, I should have taken a picture with the camera orientated square so the location of the mark was more clear, but it lines up with the intake valve.

for it to be one valve to piston, my likely flawed logic rules out too much milling of the head or block or other causes like timing that should affect more than one hole.

so ... floated valves and one kissed the piston?

its not deep, can catch your finger nail on it just barely is all ...
the cylinder walls are pure,
I think I'll continue with original plan and have the head reworked, I'll check the block for warpage, then turn it over and look at the bottom end before deciding on anything for certain especially since its already been rebuilt at least once it would appear.

thoughts on that approach?
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  #59  
Old 04-25-2013, 06:02 AM
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Doesn't the notch in the piston point to the front of the truck? If so, the nick in the piston looks too close to the centerline of the pistion to be the edge of the valve, (or you have some really small valves.)

Does the head or block have any numbers stamped on them? The shop that decked my 2F head stamped an "050" on it to indicate to future generations that it had been shaved 0.050".
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  #60  
Old 04-25-2013, 06:19 AM
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The internet says the pistons are made by Rebco and or ACL. The "RA" means it is a set of pistons (rings not included).

http://www.acl.com.au/

Piston:
RA2648 = piston only (was probably ordered as part of a rebuild kit)
6KRY2648 = KRY (contains Plain rings)
6MKRY2648 = MKRY (contains Premium rings - Moly or Chrome)

TOP UD ???
TOP YD ???
TOP YC ???
TOP YK ???
TOP CF ??? - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-2F-Mo...p2047675.l2557


Still working on the UD marking...

http://www.mitsubishilinks.com/fsm/a...ducts_pp99.pdf
Page 199

This was the kit that included RA pistons:

http://www.acl.com.au/web/aclwebsite...E/FitBuild.pdf

page 9

I like finding similarities on the web. This guy has the same question as you with the same conclusion even though his is marked with YC instead of UD...

http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wa...mber-info.html
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Last edited by treerootCO; 04-25-2013 at 07:11 AM.
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