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  #61  
Old 04-25-2013, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by simps80 View Post
I do have a problem that I would like input on though.

the pistons are all stamped ra2648 .075 then 0.04 UD

.075 converts from MM to .0295 inches so I'm assuming this is .30 over...searching on mud reveals that's true:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wa...mber-info.html

but I can't figure out 0.04 UD.

<snip>
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Originally Posted by treerootCO View Post
yep
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  #62  
Old 04-25-2013, 08:25 AM
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The valve head could have detached from the stem too. For me, if I have an engine on the stand, I'm going to at least disassemble the bottom end and check everything out. You had enough rust in that motor I would check the rod and main bearing journals and drop in new bearings, they're cheap. Replace the rear main seal at the same time. Check the oil pump to make sure the clearances are good and there is no rust or chunks in it. Check the play and thrust on the timing gears, etc. Super easy to do at this stage. Its not much more of a step to pop the pistons, hone the cylinders and put in new rings too. For very little money you then have a known good motor versus just hoping everything is OK.

Dont assume just because it turns over easy that everything is OK, who knows why it was pulled out originally?
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  #63  
Old 04-25-2013, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by 60wag View Post
Doesn't the notch in the piston point to the front of the truck? If so, the nick in the piston looks too close to the centerline of the pistion to be the edge of the valve, (or you have some really small valves.)

Does the head or block have any numbers stamped on them? The shop that decked my 2F head stamped an "050" on it to indicate to future generations that it had been shaved 0.050".
I'll look for any markings on block and head,

yes the notch does point to the front, the first picture you can kind of see how close the mark is to the center line

when I get the nikon fixed I can post better pictures too.
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  #64  
Old 04-25-2013, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Air Randy View Post
The valve head could have detached from the stem too. For me, if I have an engine on the stand, I'm going to at least disassemble the bottom end and check everything out. You had enough rust in that motor I would check the rod and main bearing journals and drop in new bearings, they're cheap. Replace the rear main seal at the same time. Check the oil pump to make sure the clearances are good and there is no rust or chunks in it. Check the play and thrust on the timing gears, etc. Super easy to do at this stage. Its not much more of a step to pop the pistons, hone the cylinders and put in new rings too. For very little money you then have a known good motor versus just hoping everything is OK.

Dont assume just because it turns over easy that everything is OK, who knows why it was pulled out originally?
noted, thanks for that.

the guy pulled it to put a v8 in he said. but he also said that was the mid 80s so I think you're right, its probably best to take the next step.
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  #65  
Old 09-09-2013, 04:44 PM
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update...
so its been a while ...again.

latest:
I took the engine apart, took it down to gunn had them go through it and machine everything.
started putting it together, Mike stops by: "I think flat top pistons with this head is not right"

he's right. I wish I had caught that before paying all that $ for the head work....

I have open chamber head with flat top pistons ... probably why the guy pulled it to begin with, ran like crap, like 6.5 to 1 or something.
oh well, I learned stuff.

biggest problem is there are no oversized domed pistons, NLA except for std
So...I have 3 options:
1. buy custom pistons ($700 to $1200 depending on source)
2. mill the crap (.100) out of the open chamber head to get compression up w/ flat tops
3. source a later 2f head with closed chamber

I am going with number 3....hopefully...

http://risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/s...836#post238836

while I waited on gunn, I rebuilt my carb, pretty fun project, ricardo's thread was a big help thanks Ricardo! I had the 2f manual, his thread, a camera, a pad and pencil and patience.

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  #66  
Old 09-09-2013, 06:14 PM
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Check with Bill at Mile High Performance, he seems to be able to source unobtainium parts for Land Cruiser engines. Another option is to sleeve the cylinders so they can accept stock sized pistons. Gunn should have known better though!

BTW, I know of a few people who have used F heads on 2F blocks to get better compression. The only gotcha is having to oil the rockers, which is just some extra work. If you want to go that route I have a good F head you can have for free.
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  #67  
Old 09-10-2013, 08:29 AM
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If you want a 2F head, post the casting number you want. I have one in my garage you can have, as well as a later 1F head with air-injection fittings. Both would need some work, but both are free if you need them.
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  #68  
Old 09-10-2013, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Rzeppa View Post
Check with Bill at Mile High Performance, he seems to be able to source unobtainium parts for Land Cruiser engines. Another option is to sleeve the cylinders so they can accept stock sized pistons. Gunn should have known better though!

BTW, I know of a few people who have used F heads on 2F blocks to get better compression. The only gotcha is having to oil the rockers, which is just some extra work. If you want to go that route I have a good F head you can have for free.
Thanks Jeff for the offer i'll let you know on that, Bill at mtn high presumably couldn't find any since he never called me back.


Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveH View Post
If you want a 2F head, post the casting number you want. I have one in my garage you can have, as well as a later 1F head with air-injection fittings. Both would need some work, but both are free if you need them.

Steve, thanks, I think its 61040 for post 81 2f closed chambered head.
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  #69  
Old 09-10-2013, 01:30 PM
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I checked with epwi and itm units in all sizes except std have been on back order since march. And they don't think they are coming in anytime soon. My source for sealed power units said check eBay and parts stores sometimes you can find them sitting in a warehouse.

I think your best bet is to find another head. I think your valves and springs will interchange. So you'll just be in for guides seats seals and machine work.

Bummer man good luck!
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  #70  
Old 09-10-2013, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by jps8460 View Post
I checked with epwi and itm units in all sizes except std have been on back order since march. And they don't think they are coming in anytime soon. My source for sealed power units said check eBay and parts stores sometimes you can find them sitting in a warehouse.

I think your best bet is to find another head. I think your valves and springs will interchange. So you'll just be in for guides seats seals and machine work.

Bummer man good luck!
Hey thanks for checking anyways..appreciate it...I pretty much gave up the hunt for pistons..it was a fun hunt though..
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