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  #11  
Old 03-21-2012, 08:56 PM
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more progress, top end is back. New valves, and cam bearings.
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98 uzj100. Factory rear-ARB front locked 4.88's. ARB Bull, Warn 9000, Irbis rear bumper, Slee sliders and belly pan. OME t-bars w/863 rears, HID, XM
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  #12  
Old 03-22-2012, 09:07 AM
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Purty. I remember when watercooled first came out, I hated it because they looked like water pumps, not motors. Which they kinda are...

Ah well things change.
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  #13  
Old 03-22-2012, 08:59 PM
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Head is back on. Not torqued yet, but back on. I ran out of time before having to pick kids up from ice skating. This parenthood thing can get in the way sometimes. Having a ring compressor was a must. Made it much simpler. Also picked up another spark plug wrench. I've lost 2 tool bags and their content in 3 seasons now. Current bag is bolted on and I've taken to carrying "b" grade tools on trail. Water pump slides onto the camshaft you see sticking to out of the pic on the left.

Air cooled is children's bikes and for riders that dress like pirates. Not for rock crawling machines.
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98 uzj100. Factory rear-ARB front locked 4.88's. ARB Bull, Warn 9000, Irbis rear bumper, Slee sliders and belly pan. OME t-bars w/863 rears, HID, XM
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  #14  
Old 03-22-2012, 09:11 PM
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Sweet, I love building top ends for bikes. Huge return for the investment. I can't wait till you fire it up. Breaking in a new motor is one of the things that makes me happiest. It's the only time you actually have to be "nice" to a motor, and it's all so you can flog it later.
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  #15  
Old 03-22-2012, 09:50 PM
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I didn't replace rings, piston, or cylinder. Just valves and cam bearings. Do I still have to be nice to it? Did gaskets to, so maybe I should be kind of nice. Please school me. What is the break-in process? Drive easy for 50 miles and check valve clearances? I change oil about every 10 hours of riding. Oil is shared with engine/clutch/tranny. Uses about a liter.
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98 uzj100. Factory rear-ARB front locked 4.88's. ARB Bull, Warn 9000, Irbis rear bumper, Slee sliders and belly pan. OME t-bars w/863 rears, HID, XM
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  #16  
Old 03-23-2012, 07:54 AM
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Fresh oil, don't overheat. I take it easy for a bit, change oil (especially if you have a liter capacity!!!) and flog it still not overheating. Heat is the enemy. You are basically micro work hardening the surfaces so heat is a killer.
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Heb Dduw, heb ddim; Duw a digon
Abnormally aspirated
KDRCH
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I'm that gun-totin', farm-raised, evangelical, pro-environment, OHV ridin'/drivin', Southern civil rights pro-labor Liberal yo' momma told you couldn't possibly exist.
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  #17  
Old 03-28-2012, 01:24 PM
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Did you use the the Kibblewhite valves? I had Dave H use those when he did my head. So far, the valves have needed no adjustment.

Have you run it yet?
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  #18  
Old 03-28-2012, 08:53 PM
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More progress. Skiing and Snowboarding in the 60 degree weather are getting in the way. Clutch cover o-ring arrived today so I have all the parts to fill it with fluids.
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98 uzj100. Factory rear-ARB front locked 4.88's. ARB Bull, Warn 9000, Irbis rear bumper, Slee sliders and belly pan. OME t-bars w/863 rears, HID, XM
KD0GWO
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  #19  
Old 03-28-2012, 08:56 PM
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reklus z-start clutch
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98 uzj100. Factory rear-ARB front locked 4.88's. ARB Bull, Warn 9000, Irbis rear bumper, Slee sliders and belly pan. OME t-bars w/863 rears, HID, XM
KD0GWO
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  #20  
Old 03-28-2012, 09:40 PM
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lookin' sweet dude.

I'd probably just run it easy for the first tank, then check valves, change oil, and rip it up.

did you have an auto clutch in there before?

The bike I got has an auto clutch and a left hand rear brake lever. still kinda getting used to it.
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