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Old 03-19-2012, 09:32 AM
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Default Headlight wiring

I am starting over on wiring for my headlight. Have a new dual sport kit with hi/lo switch, but those are just for completing the loop, there's no power to it, I need a power feed. I want to abandon the stock wiring and start over for the headlight, not only for ease of future diagnosis, but also so I can turn the headlight on without turning the bike on.

I plan to run straight from the battery- would you suggest a relay setup, similar to fog lights on a truck? Or is this current draw so low that it won't matter much if the juice has to flow through the switch..
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Old 03-19-2012, 09:56 AM
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Do you have the service manual for the bike? There's a wiring diagram in it that might give you some ideas...

...it doesn't look to me like the factory wiring has a relay...
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Old 03-19-2012, 09:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subzali View Post
Do you have the service manual for the bike? There's a wiring diagram in it that might give you some ideas...
Yep, but everything in the stock wiring only comes on after the bike is running.
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Old 03-19-2012, 10:01 AM
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The current I'd expect is fairly decent being that it's a 6V system, right? Even if it's a fairly low power light, say 35W, that's around 6A. Well, that assumes it's an incandescent bulb, if it's LED or something then it would be quite a bit lower.

I like to always use relays, although it's not like the runs are long on a motorcycle. But it does simplify the high current side to just two wires and makes the control side wiring lighter, which I would assume on handlebars might be important since trying to connect 14AWG would be a PITA compared to 22AWG.
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Old 03-19-2012, 10:42 AM
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It is a H4 halogen bulb with high and low beam – 12V 35W/35W. I am not sure what 35/35 means, does that imply 70 watts when I switch to Hi Beam?

So relay gets 12v from the battery (30), a feed in from the tail light running light or horn feed (85), a ground (86) and then a feed out to the white wire running into my hi/lo switch (87), then the black and blue wires coming out of the hi/lo switch running to the Hi and Lo terminals on the headlight. This still funnels the whole thing through the hi/lo switch though, but I'm not sure how to avoid that without two more relays- one hi and one lo, which just seems excessive. The wiring in the switch is probably in the 18-20ga. thickness, which is likely triple compared to what's in the stock harness.

Here's a simple diagram of a different setup, but just to refresh you on what terminals do what.

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Old 03-19-2012, 10:47 AM
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35W in low, 35W in high. Different beam is due to focus. If you want REALLY bright (and sap your battery and lighting coil, I rather suspect you do not have a 200W aftermarket wind) you can put them both on at once. Probably not.

Be sure you don't have a 12VAC lighting coil, and a 12VDC batt charging coil. I don't know Katooms but it's been done. Dem Germans have been known to go their own way.

You can get aftermarket handlebar lighting switches that look factory. I run one.
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Old 03-19-2012, 10:57 AM
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Here's an example from a google search. Not quite right but close.
http://www.motopartsmax.com/index.ph...ducts_id/15698

Better:
http://www.procycle.us/images/dualsp...witch_mini.jpg
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Old 03-19-2012, 10:57 AM
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Ok cool thanks Bill, so if its 35w either way then I'm definitely not worried about running that through the handlebar switch. I'm all DC, but that's not universal even with KTM's, in fact I believe Bruce's bike goes both ways.

And reason #23 for running the headlight straight to the battery is, I am fairly sure that's a DC setup that even I could later diagnose.

I do have a 100w Stator http://www.trailtech.net/SR-8310.html

edit: Yes, my switch looks just like that "better" one.. but I'm not sure I've got the LED on top, will look tonight to see.
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Old 03-19-2012, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nakman View Post
This still funnels the whole thing through the hi/lo switch though, but I'm not sure how to avoid that without two more relays- one hi and one lo, which just seems excessive.
That's what the 87A terminal is for on the relay, 87 is NO, 87A is NC. So it takes just two relays. The first is the power on/off and the second toggles between low and high. Bosch figured that out in like 1962 when they designed it.
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Old 03-19-2012, 11:03 AM
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There's a good reason NOT to run it off your battery. You lose 35W draw while you are trying to estart a dead motor.

As soon as you trace out that hot lead to your lighting coil, you will have gained any troubleshooting insight needed in the future. That's the way to go.
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