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Old 03-21-2012, 06:57 AM
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Default fj40 manifold leak. go header? fix manny?

I'm re-focusing efforts on the 40 again (still?) and have an exhaust leak I'm not too fond of. fumes me make kinda stupid late now.

the leak, I believe is coming from that thermostatically controlled spindle/rod. and it's leaking from that 'cradle' where it rotates. Is this something that can be welded up (cast is tough to weld I hear).... or since lucked out and got in under the wire with my Collector plates, should I start going down this road? (header and total desmog?) sorry for the giant pic
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Last edited by CardinalFJ60; 03-21-2012 at 07:02 AM. Reason: wow...that picture is HUGE!
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Old 03-21-2012, 07:02 AM
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Default opening a can of worms?

I know Rezarf has a header on his 2f, Subzali, do you? Anyone else with good or bad experiences? In my reading it seems hit or miss that you'll either always be plagued with exhaust leaks or it'll be nice with a full de-smog.

I picked up that header anticipating to use it on my 60 motor build, but didn't. so I have it in my garage.
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Old 03-21-2012, 07:20 AM
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I installed a set of headers when my manifold went south. That was at least ten years ago and I kick myself to this day every time I drive it. It takes way longer to warm up and drive decent and the coolant heaters for the bottom of the manifold are not a good solution. I haven't had any leakage problems but I don't like the sound and I'm all but certain I lost power and mileage. I had dual 2.25" exhaust run so I know it isn't being "choked". I have contemplated putting a "Y" in and running it single but always feel that if I'm going to that length I should put a manifold back on and let it work like Toyota designed it to.

But that's just my opinion.
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Old 03-21-2012, 07:24 AM
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I'm running a header on my F.5 and Air Randy has a header on the 2F in the Mule. My header experience has been OK. I did have an exhaust leak upon initial installation which was likely do to installer error. I then put on a REMFLEX gasket which worked great until I damaged it while tearing down for a rebuild. I'm sure it flows the exhaust better than the stock exhaust manifold, but I can't really notice a difference.

With a header, I strongly recommend a fluid heat riser. After installing the fluid heat riser; I have not ever vapor locked in the summer and my engine warms up much better in the winter.
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Old 03-21-2012, 08:36 AM
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we could cut that thing out and weld it. then re install it with a SOR block off plate and a good OEM gasket and probably be set to go.

I'd recommend getting the intake/exhaust combo machined flat by Spitfire automotive before re installing to ensure a nice flat surface for a good seal.

I went the remflex route twice and think it's a band aid for a poorly fitting intake/exhaust that just leads to more leaks in the future.
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Old 03-21-2012, 08:41 AM
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I'm running a header on my 2F with no complaints. If you already have it, then I would say bolt it on and try it out.
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Old 03-21-2012, 08:45 AM
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I have the MAF 6-1 headers, never had the truck without a header so I have nothing to compare it to. I have no vapor lock, no issues starting/warming up with a little choke and gas pedal pump. It's a great place to add chrome! I do have a heat riser installed and I am fully desmogged.

I just put on a new one. Copper gasket sealer and a felpro gasket, sealed it up nicely.
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Old 03-21-2012, 11:35 AM
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I have a little leak from that same location as well, but don't think it fumes me out in any way. Some day I want to tear that all apart again and take a good look at it; it seems that a metal bushing could be pressed in there to seal that up better. If you're going to keep your stock manifold you need to be sure that that assembly is working properly or you'll crack the bottom of your intake manifold. So do not just weld it up without having a provision for the plate to rotate.

On headers, not all headers are created equal. There is the common 6-1 header, which I think just about everyone here in RS has who has a header (including the one in your picture). There is also the Downey Tri-Y 3-2-1 header, which some claim (Marks Offroad for example) flow better than the 6-1. Finally there is the tuned header like MAF and SOR sell, which suppposedly are the best designed for flow and optimized for the engine performance. They are also (surprise surprise) the most expensive. The cool thing I personally like about the MAF design is that it has an EGR port so you can have a header and lose very little of your emissions components (The HAI and intake pre-heater being the only two exceptions I can think of right now), if you need to keep them. You can read more on the MAF website and marksoffroad.net website about headers, some pretty good info there.

I'm running the stock manifold still, and Ricardo and I have yet to race and see who wins!

On desmogging, I'm not sure what I gained by desmogging except for extra room in the engine bay. There seems to be no power difference for me. I do think, however, that I can attribute my very stinky exhaust to the desmog. Once I get all my smog components back together I'm going to throw it all back on and see if that's true. The other reason is that some "features" of the smog equipment is gone if you desmog. For instance, the throttle positioner is gone. Not a big deal, but with sloppy/worn drivetrain components, a worn engine, and a Lockrite in the back, it would be nice if the throttle wasn't so on-off like it is now without the VSV installed that controls that diaphragm. Just little things to think about.

IF YOU DO GO THE DESMOG ROUTE, KEEP EVERYTHING

You never know when the laws may change to disallow grandfathering, or change the cutoff dates, or you may move and will not be able to register your 40 at your new place without getting it back on the smog program. Just box it all up and store it in the attic. This stuff is very hard to find these days. 1977 seems particularly hard to find for some reason.

I have no doubt that headers help with exhaust flow and open things up a bit, but if you're always shifting early and keeping your rpm's low I doubt you'll ever notice. If you do go headers, definitely get a heat riser built or bought.
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Old 03-21-2012, 12:38 PM
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Default This is Great info. thanks.

Hmmm...based on this feedback, I think I need to bribe Marco to allow me to come over to his pad for a "good Lookin' at". As far as the fumes in the cab go...maybe they are migrating from other not-so-sealed up places. I do know the manifold is leaking at that spot Subzali also described.

Like most things at this level, nothing is as easy as "remove and replace". If I can easily get that leak repaired with everything still on the truck that's great. doubtful, but would be great. the reality is that I have that header, and if everyone said DO IT!!!! it's a no brainer. I think I need to determine the root issue - I don't think there are any performance gains that would coerce me to go for it.

I wouldn't mind freeing up some space under the hood to put a PS pump (instead of an smog pump). Decisions, decisions...Oh...and money, money.
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Old 03-21-2012, 01:07 PM
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Keep your smog pump and get a JT Outfitters bracket for a Saginaw power steering pump. Or coerce CCOT to sell you their brackets to mount an OEM pump above the smog pump .
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