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  #11  
Old 03-22-2012, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishy View Post
Dave,

That's the one. I see a flaw in the LCD display system. It gives you warm fuzzies when you start your truck and think you're golden on your batteries. Unless you really know what's going on, you could get yourself stranded thinking you can use your main battery for something and let it run down, because your aux battery reads full, you assume it will start your truck if need be. In fact, that may not be the case. This is not a fool proof system at all.
I am not aware of a way to sense the voltage of each individual battery when they are connected to facilitate charging of both batteries. Yes, you have to still be aware of what is going on.

What the dual LED system for both batteries are nice for is to tell you if the batteries are actually linked or not. So if you drive, and both should read the same, and they do not, then you know the system did not link together.

So you are not really going to know the status of the 2nd battery, but you will know if it is NOT getting charged.

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I so bad want to borrow a quote from Tommy Boy....ah why not?
Maybe Dave knows if one can do that, but as you said, it is pretty much one big battery when linked.
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Old 03-22-2012, 12:35 PM
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A couple hours at least, and that's the problem. The alternator will charge at a very slow rate because the battery it reads is the main, because the truck is running and the relay is closed (both batteries acting as one)
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  #13  
Old 03-22-2012, 12:35 PM
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Here is the Odyssey Reference

http://www.odysseybattery.com/chargers.html

In short, newer trucks like 100's does not put out 14.7v for charging.
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  #14  
Old 03-22-2012, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by nakman View Post
To clarify, the reference is to charging an AGM that has been drained. First reference, off the top of my head...
I can't tell you why they said that. The only reason I could think is alternator capacity. Most AGM batteries will want a lot of current during initial bulk charge from deep discharge, on the order of 100 amps.

What he might be referring is that flooded types don't need to be 2.4V/cell, they will bulk charge down to 2.3V/cell just fine where as AGM typically won't like to be under 2.35V/cell. But the system in my truck delivers right at 14.4V and can only do 40A to the battery, but I don't seem to eat up batteries (my current Red Top is 5 years old now and it replaced one that went 7). I never had to tweak anything.
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Old 03-22-2012, 12:42 PM
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my truck does 14.9v at charge and dosen't seem to eat up batts either. My current optima I use for starting i got in 2001.

I have noticed that both batteries take a pretty healthy charge if one is dead on my Dual Batt system. (alt gets hot) It joins the batteries also only after voltage on the main batt comes up.. which is always almost instant.
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  #16  
Old 03-22-2012, 12:56 PM
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also forgot to mention that when I took my alternator to vanatta electric in Boulder because I thought it was overcharging, every single regulator we looked up for it was set at 14.9 volts.

Conclusion was that they changed to 14.9 volts for charging on the newer GM alternators.
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Old 03-22-2012, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by rover67 View Post
also forgot to mention that when I took my alternator to vanatta electric in Boulder because I thought it was overcharging, every single regulator we looked up for it was set at 14.9 volts.

Conclusion was that they changed to 14.9 volts for charging on the newer GM alternators.
That does seem very high. I'd be very concerned anyway, but doesn't seem to affect you if you're getting 10 years from batteries. Curious. I thought 14.9V would only be OK up to maybe 40F or so. Maybe GM has a way to regulate battery voltage separate from the alternator/regulator itself.
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Old 03-22-2012, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveInDenver View Post
That does seem very high. I'd be very concerned anyway, but doesn't seem to affect you if you're getting 10 years from batteries. Curious.
maybe it's too much of a tangent from the thread, but how the heck would one lower it other than finding some other kind of regulator for the alt?

Also, in keeping with the thread, does it make sense that if one of my 2 batteries is way down they charge at a higher rate? I've only got the hand test on the alternator to base my statements on (heat)
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  #19  
Old 03-22-2012, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleeoffroad View Post
Here is the Odyssey Reference

http://www.odysseybattery.com/chargers.html

In short, newer trucks like 100's does not put out 14.7v for charging.
It does not indicate temperature, but 2.45V/cell would be fine at 70F and lower, but would be damaging above. At 90F the max temp AGM batteries want to see is 2.38V/cell (14.3V) and at 100F you should not exceed 2.36V/cell (14.2V). Also notice that the profile indicates a controlled current and time at 14.7V, which is considered equalizing phase. A battery rep should also tell you that you do /not/ want to equalize often, this is hard on batteries. Bulk charge is constant voltage with no current limit, which is done at a lower voltage. This is exactly why I have the IOTA charger I do, so I can condition batteries periodically when I see (by open circuit no-load voltage) that they need it. This is maybe once a year sort of thing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sleeoffroad View Post
Maybe Dave knows if one can do that, but as you said, it is pretty much one big battery when linked.
It can be done, just that you need to know individual battery current and have the ability to switch each battery on and off the charging bus. Keeping it simple like they do is fine just as long as you recognize that you will not be optimally charging even with the right voltage.
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  #20  
Old 03-22-2012, 01:40 PM
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I think you can modify the system to manually "unlink" the batteries once the truck is running. Thus fully charging the aux battery. That's my plan. The entire system won't know the difference.



Like Christo mentioned, the bonus of the IBS system is to see the batteries linked together. That can be done without the in cab voltage meter of the IBS System. That being said, I'm still gonna visit Christo this week for the second battery tray and run the IBS system. However, I'm going to modify it for my needs. I need a second battery that I can recharge in the field in minimal time. I don't want to drive 3 hours just to charge my aux battery.



I guess that's why they sell the IBS solar charging kit?
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Last edited by Fishy; 03-31-2012 at 11:10 PM.
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