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Old 03-25-2012, 02:43 PM
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Default RTH - Connector Help

I'm troubleshooting an issue I have with the passenger's side taillight on the T, specifically it does not illuminate when the pedal is pressed, but the bulb works when the headlights are turned on. I'd like to try to eliminate an aftermarket trailer wiring harness as being one of the possible causes. The connector being used on the harness closely resembles one of these:


http://kyae.en.alibaba.com/product/4...connector.html

For the life of me, I can't figure out how to get the thing apart. Can anybody lend some insight? This is the connector being used for the passenger side taillight on my '97 T100.

Thanks!

EDIT: Here's a crappy pic of the actual connector


EDIT X2: Looking at the electrical wiring diagram, this connector appears to be labeled R6 R7 Gray
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Last edited by theboomboom; 03-25-2012 at 03:23 PM.
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Old 03-25-2012, 05:43 PM
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gotta be a way to push from each side while pulling the thing apart. Sometimes you need 3 or 4 hands.
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Old 03-25-2012, 09:45 PM
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My manual describes using an SST to move some kind of retainer inside of this type of waterproof connector... I believe this is the waterproof connector. It even has illustrations and everything, I just can't wrap my head around the pictures or procedure it describes

I'm going to pay a visit to Groove this week because I'm going to end up replacing that bit of wiring harness for the taillight assembly. Hopefully I can get some of their advice about this particular connector when I pick it up.
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Old 03-25-2012, 11:51 PM
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Looks like you could shove a flat blade screwdriver at that little lever.. push it in, then twist the screwdriver to pry it apart. Aim the screwdriver right at that dark rectangular spot on your picture.
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Old 03-26-2012, 12:15 PM
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Just to ask the obvious, but are you sure the bulb is good?

You said the brake light is out but the running light works...As I recall they are separate filaments.

As for the connector...I would assume you press down on the ridged part while pulling apart but I know fighting with these connectors can be a real PITA. I know the NSS on the later model 80s can be a bi$%& to get off and this has a similar look. On the NSS connector, I got it off by pressing in on the ridged tab with a screwdriver while using a flat head to pry up on the sides. Of course on the 80 the end that the NSS connects to is attached to the tranny vs. having two loose connectors.
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Old 03-27-2012, 08:29 PM
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Bulb appears to be fine. I went ahead and stopped by Groove this afternoon, they were able to order the part I need so I should have it by Thursday. When it comes in I'll ask around to see if someone in parts, possibly even service, can explain to me how the connectors work...

I have to admit, having a bus pass is nice. I'm not under much pressure to half-ass repairs to get the truck back on the road, and I'm feeling good about doing it the right way. Will keep this thread updated...
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Old 03-28-2012, 09:23 AM
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'course if you had bought an F150 you wouldn't be having these issues, dang Toyota's
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Old 03-28-2012, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theboomboom View Post
Bulb appears to be fine...
Don't they all?

Did you try swapping bulbs with the other side that is working. That should quickly rule out the bulb and only take a few minutes
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'97 LX450 - aka "The Whale"
'97 FZJ80 Antique Sage AE #267, stock
12/74 FJ40, 2F, SM420, 4" Lift, ARBs, 33" MTRs

:

"...anything else i can do for you guys, how about i wash your car or mow your lawn while you figure out your firewall system? I am now boarderline insane/unibomber." Kipper

"That assumes I'm even capable of pulling and stabbing..." Jacket

"I really like having a detachable unit." Beater
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Old 03-28-2012, 12:20 PM
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T harness are infamous for going bad.

They are also model year specific. Your best bet is to get a new connector set and splice in. Also make sure you the truck doesn't have a factory trailer harness. It piggy backs on the harness and can be corroded through.

j
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Old 03-28-2012, 12:57 PM
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This connector was bad on mine when I got it, but was due to the first owner's trailer harness. The splice was the epitome of 'ham fisted' and, like John mentions, was just as green and covered with scale as you'd expect would be copper exposed to road grime.

Not sure if it was factory or UHaul harness, but it was installed with those 3M snap-on quick splices. Pretty sure right after sketching up 'IFS' on a napkin, satan himself thought those things up. Oh sure, they're fast and work well for a year. But they end up cutting half the wires and in the process of cutting the insulation they leave the whole termination exposed to just corrode away.



I ended up cutting, soldering and weatherproof shrinking a new section in back there. That's going on 12 years old now. This was the section under the rear of the bed, right behind the vertical section of apron. Talk about a pain in the back, can't quite lay down, can quite sit up.
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