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  #11  
Old 03-28-2012, 03:17 PM
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I agree Dave those things are the devil, I don't like 'em. Maybe for something in the dash, ok, but definitely not out under a truck bed.
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  #12  
Old 03-28-2012, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corsair23 View Post
Don't they all?

Did you try swapping bulbs with the other side that is working. That should quickly rule out the bulb and only take a few minutes
Kinda late for that, I already have the PO's rats nest taken apart but I have a good idea about what is going on. It has the stock trailer harness, but the functionality of that unit appears to be fine. I tested the trailer connector before digging into everything and it was sending the electrical signal to all the lights just fine... except for the passenger side brake light.

It was set up with those pesky plastic splicers, my plan for the repair is to do some good soldering to mitigate having to deal with this issue again down the road. I have a part on order from toyota that should allow for a quality repair.

Lucky for me, the engineers had their thinking caps on when they designed the rear combination light/wiring setup on these trucks. From the fuse box, the wires run along the under side of the bed to the back of the bed. From the bed to the housing, there is a separate bit or wiring harness that connects using that plastic connector I couldn't figure out.

I'm replacing the old, hacked up bit of wiring harness that the truck has with a shiny new one, and this time when the splices are made to hook up trailer lights, they're going to be done much better
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  #13  
Old 03-28-2012, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theboomboom View Post
I'm replacing the old, hacked up bit of wiring harness that the truck has with a shiny new one, and this time when the splices are made to hook up trailer lights, they're going to be done much better
Interesting...So you think the stock harness used those crappy splices?

I chased an issue with my trucks trailer wiring for a long time. Everything would work on my popup except the aux lighting so I couldn't tow at night. In the end I replaced the crappy Draw-Tite dealyo (supposed powered unit to bump up the juice to the rear but it stopped working ) and crappy splices the PO made with a Hoppy plug-n-play unit. No splices needed - it is all connectorized...unplug the OEM connector, plug in the Hoppy connector, plus the OEM connector back in on the backside of the Hoppy and voila.

Just a suggestion but you might want to spend a little more $$ now and change out the hitch/trailer wiring with something that doesn't have splicing involved.

[EDIT] Looks like Hoppy Part #43355 is what you need

Under $50 on Amazon - LINK
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  #14  
Old 04-03-2012, 08:05 AM
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Back in business

The connector ended up being relatively straightforward, there was a clip that needed to be depressed that resides under the cover on my second picture. It ended up being lodged with Moab-style grit (which makes sense, the truck is originally from Utah). Getting the two sides apart required a bit of muscle and resulted in a scraped knuckle or two, but ultimately I got the taillight working again. Still have not replaced the trailer harness, that will be a project for another day.

As a brief aside, I filled up the truck last night and discovered that with about 70% highway, 30% city driving, I was able to achieve 19.8 mpg. Albeit, was on the premium fuel that I used to pass my emissions test. Even still, this is right in line with what I was getting on my last truck. Its a good feeling knowing I have a truck capable of 20 mpg+.
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