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  #11  
Old 04-09-2012, 09:13 AM
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I did a quick check on way out the door this morning, looks like both the shims in this diff are 0.067" thick (well, at least they both measure the same with my cheap calipers) and so might not be crucial that I no longer know which is right and left...

So anyone on the south side have time to walk me through disassembling and re-setting a diff? How about a shop that could handle this? I'm under the gun time-wise this week.

I'll have to do the whole shooting match: pull the bearing caps, remove the ring gear, remove and reassembly the locker, recheck the backlash. Tom set it for me and got backlash right at 0.005", but that was without the side shims. At this point since we did not mark the bearing caps originally and reset the backlash and preload, I'd need to do this right with a dial indicator.
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Old 04-09-2012, 09:42 AM
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Dave,

I'd be glad to help you but I'm heading out the door to California and don't get back until late Thursday. Sascha and/or Ricardo might be able to help though. Sascha has a dial indicator setup or you guys can use mine, the shop is available to you guys if you want to do it here.
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  #13  
Old 04-09-2012, 09:46 AM
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Also, the part about pulling the ring gear off to remove the cross pin is a new one to me. I don't know if it's the same issue, but when I've put big gears in other diffs in the past and run into this issue, the recommended route is to take a dremel tool and grind a little bit off of 1 or 2 teeth on the ring gear so the pin will slide out.

Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters turned me on to this technique. The amount of material you remove is fairly small and at the extreme edges of the teeth so apparently you don't have issues with weakening the teeth. Kurt says he has done tons of them this way and never had an issue.
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Old 04-09-2012, 10:45 AM
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Thanks Randy, Tom is going WAY above and beyond to help me with this. I can't say strongly enough THANK YOU! Both of you.

We tried looking at it a few ways. There sure does not seem to be a way to get the cross pin out without grinding off a lot. With the V6 diffs this is not an issue of course. It sure didn't seem like a little off was gonna do it.

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  #15  
Old 04-09-2012, 11:16 AM
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I wouldn't grind that much off.
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  #16  
Old 04-09-2012, 11:40 AM
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Dave I'm not going way above. It was my goof, my head was elsewhere and I must fix it. I will have it back to you tonight.

I encourage anybody in the area to swing by and throw rotten produce at me when I pick this up to help drive home the point of not being in a hurry.

Thank you Dave for being so cool about it.
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  #17  
Old 04-09-2012, 12:00 PM
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I don't think publicly hashing this out is necessary, but seriously Tom, you were doing me a HUGE favor. My lack of prep put me in a bind of asking for help, that's not your problem. But you are making it your problem and that demonstrates a lot. You're the one who gave up a Sunday afternoon working on my junk.

Honestly, when ARE you opening that custom hot rod shop? :-)
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  #18  
Old 04-09-2012, 08:30 PM
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Yep, from the picture that would require removing way too much material. On the FJ40 diff, imagine if the pin was about 3/4" higher than what you see there now. You would only have to grind a little bit off of those 2 teeth to make it come out.
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