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Old 04-01-2012, 06:53 PM
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I recently redid the parking brake on my 40. I also fixed the speedometer (knowing how fast I'm going is pretty cool).

I got the parking brake adjusted, and took it for a test drive. Everything was fine at first, but then it started bucking and pulsing. It kinda felt like the parking brake was intermittently catching. I took everything apart and poked around, but didn't really find anything out of place. I did re-tighten the (non) castle nut and applied some blue Loctite so that I could stop worrying about the nut coming loose.

I finally got the tcase refilled today and took it out for another test drive. At first the bucking continued, and I was ready to give up and park it until I got a better idea. As I was about to get out of the truck, I noticed that the tcase shift lever was closer to 4wd than 2wd than it usually sits. I've been using low range to pull into the garage because it's a tight fit.

I rather forcefully moved the lever up into 2wd and went for another drive. No bucking or pulsing or scary noises coming from the drivetrain.

So after that wall of text, a couple questions. My tcase is "difficult" to shift into and out of low range. It appears it might need extra convincing to come out of 4wd as well. Are there any duct tape fixes for this?

Could not quite being in 2wd explain the bucking/dragging/pulsing action?

Subzali rode in it while it was acting up, so maybe he has a better explanation of what it was doing.
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Old 04-01-2012, 07:33 PM
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Well that's interesting. I guess it could explain it, but if I remember right you had your front hubs unlocked the whole time we were doing the testing. So there shouldn't be anything that's binding...
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Old 04-01-2012, 08:52 PM
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I'm pretty sure we unlocked them before we went joyriding. Didn't we?
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Old 04-08-2012, 09:08 AM
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Are you certain front and rear diffs have the same ratio?
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Old 04-08-2012, 10:37 AM
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Moab 2010 I drive the 40 to town and left the parking break on. It did exactly what you describe but only after I drove for 30min at highway speeds. Probably gets hot and makes the pads work better.
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Old 04-09-2012, 01:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by farnhamstj View Post
Are you certain front and rear diffs have the same ratio?
This rig has been thoroughly "improved" by the various PO's that have owned it. Short answer is no.
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Old 04-09-2012, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by treerootCO View Post
Moab 2010 I drive the 40 to town and left the parking break on. It did exactly what you describe but only after I drove for 30min at highway speeds. Probably gets hot and makes the pads work better.
I originally thought this was what was going on, but I've taken it apart, put it back together and had the problem come and go.
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Old 04-09-2012, 07:39 PM
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Do you have some type of locker in the rear diff? Those can cause similar symptoms especially if they are starting to go bad. Or you could have some busted spider gears in the rear diff.
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Old 04-10-2012, 12:41 PM
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No locker.

Wouldn't busted spider gears be a consistent kind of problem? I've got to learn how to break stuff all the way. Then I won't be wondering what's wrong.
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Old 04-10-2012, 02:23 PM
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I'd jack up the truck, wheels off the ground and confirm:
1. both front hubs lock and unlock as expected
2. the 2wd/4wd lever actually connects/disconnects the front drive shaft from the tcase
3. both front and rear diffs feel correct when one wheel is turned by hand. If the drive shaft doesn't turn, the wheel on the opposite side of the axle turns the other direction with minimal noise. Backlash is mostly ok.
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